Mykesbass Posted September 15, 2015 Author Share Posted September 15, 2015 Question time - I'm trying to save the Made in Japan and serial number on the headstock. Any ideas how I can get the paint stripped neatly around it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grangur Posted September 15, 2015 Share Posted September 15, 2015 [quote name='Mykesbass' timestamp='1442342383' post='2866262'] Question time - I'm trying to save the Made in Japan and serial number on the headstock. Any ideas how I can get the paint stripped neatly around it? [/quote] I recon you've done about the best that's possible. Either heat or Nitromores would run the risk of you losing those. But I have been known to be wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykesbass Posted September 15, 2015 Author Share Posted September 15, 2015 [quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1442342920' post='2866271'] I recon you've done about the best that's possible. Either heat or Nitromores would run the risk of you losing those. But I have been known to be wrong. [/quote] Heat has been working well, but I'd love to get it neater/closer. Funny, the gel stripper hasn't touched the top surface, but has been great for cleaning the little bits of undercoat and filler. Thanks for your support on this so far - great to hear from others who have had a go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharkfinger Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 [quote name='Mykesbass' timestamp='1442342383' post='2866262'] Question time - I'm trying to save the Made in Japan and serial number on the headstock. Any ideas how I can get the paint stripped neatly around it? [/quote] Hmmm, never had to do anything like that but I would try sanding (or any other method) around it carefully, then using a stanley knife (with a steel rule) to neaten the edges. It will hopefully look like an applied sticker. Either that or make a new one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykesbass Posted September 16, 2015 Author Share Posted September 16, 2015 [quote name='Sharkfinger' timestamp='1442393413' post='2866541'] Hmmm, never had to do anything like that but I would try sanding (or any other method) around it carefully, then using a stanley knife (with a steel rule) to neaten the edges. It will hopefully look like an applied sticker. Either that or make a new one? [/quote] Yes, the problem is that I can't mask against heat and the chemical stripper doesn't want to touch the top layer. I may risk lifting the entire remaining piece in one and trimming it off the headstock and glueing it back on afterwards, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharkfinger Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 then perhaps [quote name='Mykesbass' timestamp='1442393675' post='2866543'] Yes, the problem is that I can't mask against heat and the chemical stripper doesn't want to touch the top layer. I may risk lifting the entire remaining piece in one and trimming it off the headstock and glueing it back on afterwards, [/quote] Then perhaps try sanding (filing first?) the back of the headstock, putting masking tape over the serial number, so it doesn't get scratched? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6v6 Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 Good work so far! If the glue doesn't stablize the cracks I'd be tempted to cut the cracked part out and glue/clamp a (thick) veneer over the top, particularly that back one which looks structural wrt the bridge screws. PVA isn't known for it's gap-filling properties, but you might get away with it if you finish with a skim of polyester resin/filler at the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 Hi, Mike I think you have two choices if you are wanting to strip down to natural but keep a serial number and 'made in Japan'...and neither includes trying to lift the logos . I'm not saying it couldn't be done, but I know that I couldn't do it.... First option - ie, retaining original logos[list] [*]As you say, you would need to strip down to a neat boundary around the present logos. [*]Not easy, but with care and patience it can be done. I would use a single-edged razor (or a Stanley knife blade out of its handle) used like a scraper: [*] [/list] As you may have gathered, it's also what I use to refurbish fretboards![list] [*]I would avoid scoring a line with a blade around the logo because it will always show...this is the method someone had previously used with Bryan's Westone... [/list] Second Method: For a natural headstock, make a new decal, black printing on clear: [list] [*]Nowadays, I don't use the waterslide ones - I use this (think I got them in Staples): [/list] [list] [*]They do white background too, but these are clear. Print with a standard inkjet, cut them out, they are self stick and certainly over varnish OK with my favoured Ronseal/Rustins poly varnish...not sure with nitro (but I think I am right in saying you can coat it first in shellac, and then overspray with the nitro? Best to trial it first!) [/list] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharkfinger Posted September 16, 2015 Share Posted September 16, 2015 ^^ This Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykesbass Posted September 16, 2015 Author Share Posted September 16, 2015 Thanks Andy - really appreciate that. Actually a new one with restoration date now sounds like a nice idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykesbass Posted October 3, 2015 Author Share Posted October 3, 2015 First major disappointment, having sanded, filled and sealed, I finally plucked up the courage to have a go at spraying. The spraying itself has gone OK, not great, but with some sanding and further applications, it looks like I could be getting there, except for the big drawback. The spraying has revealed that the splits in the wood have reopened. All was great with the sanding sealer/shellac. Body felt nice an smooth, and I couldn't see or feel any of the cracks. Now the first couple of coats of paint are on and one of the larger cracks is showing really badly and a couple of smaller ones have reappeared. Time to strip back again and look at another form of filling/sealing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChunkyMunky Posted October 5, 2015 Share Posted October 5, 2015 Without trying to crash or hijack the thread, I'm selling an SR800. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykesbass Posted October 6, 2015 Author Share Posted October 6, 2015 [quote name='ChunkyMunky' timestamp='1444080870' post='2880200'] Without trying to crash or hijack the thread, I'm selling an SR800. [/quote] That's a great price - much less of a project (for someone else) than this one!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykesbass Posted October 9, 2015 Author Share Posted October 9, 2015 Stripping it all back down, shame, as my first attempts at spraying weren't too shabby at all! More PVA, and I must make sure I get it to stand proud of the wood this time. Got a second preamp from Osiris off here - had to really at the price he was selling! Onwards and, well, keeping level would be nice, upwards perhaps a little ambitious at this stage!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scojack Posted October 9, 2015 Share Posted October 9, 2015 (edited) Maybe try filling with epoxy? (Just get some cheap Tommy Walsh epoxy glue from Poundland) Edited October 9, 2015 by scojack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykesbass Posted October 9, 2015 Author Share Posted October 9, 2015 [quote name='scojack' timestamp='1444387315' post='2882770'] Maybe try filling with epoxy? (Just get some cheap Tommy Walsh epoxy glue from Poundland) [/quote] Unless go for some real specialist stuff, I was under the impression epoxy wouldn't be suitable as it has no flexibility. The PVA has worked on a couple of the cracks, it is just a couple of others that look like they need another go. Thanks for the idea though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6v6 Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 [quote name='Mykesbass' timestamp='1444427923' post='2883280'] Unless go for some real specialist stuff, I was under the impression epoxy wouldn't be suitable as it has no flexibility. The PVA has worked on a couple of the cracks, it is just a couple of others that look like they need another go. Thanks for the idea though. [/quote] IMHO you want something without much flexibility, as it'll help stabilize the crack. The problem with PVA in this application is it's designed to work well between two bits of tighly clamped wood (where it'll be stronger than the wood itself in most cases) - but pouring it into a crack with no clamping it'll just end up a slightly flexible filler, with not much real improvement to the structural integrity of the crack (at least this is what I've seen with the PVA varieties I've used). If you want epoxy which isn't too brittle, try a slow cure variety, IME these are somewhat semi-flexible (moreso than the fast-cure kind), and can be turned into a good filler with the addition of a filling agent like "micro ballons". The other option as previously mentioned is to accurately machine a flat above the crack, then clamp a veneer with PVA so you regain the structural integrity via a solid non-cracked piece of wood, then sand to match the profile of the surrounding wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grangur Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 I think on this you need a hot glue: http://youtu.be/dibbo2Y2dNY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykesbass Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share Posted October 12, 2015 [quote name='6v6' timestamp='1444647853' post='2884692'] IMHO you want something without much flexibility, as it'll help stabilize the crack. The problem with PVA in this application is it's designed to work well between two bits of tighly clamped wood (where it'll be stronger than the wood itself in most cases) - but pouring it into a crack with no clamping it'll just end up a slightly flexible filler, with not much real improvement to the structural integrity of the crack (at least this is what I've seen with the PVA varieties I've used). If you want epoxy which isn't too brittle, try a slow cure variety, IME these are somewhat semi-flexible (moreso than the fast-cure kind), and can be turned into a good filler with the addition of a filling agent like "micro ballons". The other option as previously mentioned is to accurately machine a flat above the crack, then clamp a veneer with PVA so you regain the structural integrity via a solid non-cracked piece of wood, then sand to match the profile of the surrounding wood. [/quote] Thanks 6v6 - some good food for thought. Only issue I have now is getting the old PVA back out - seems to have softened during the second stripping! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykesbass Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share Posted October 12, 2015 [quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1444650785' post='2884718'] I think on this you need a hot glue: [/quote] Says the man that put me off this idea in the first place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grangur Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 [quote name='Mykesbass' timestamp='1444655929' post='2884797'] Says the man that put me off this idea in the first place [/quote] I was hopeful. So were you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykesbass Posted October 23, 2015 Author Share Posted October 23, 2015 Not holding my breath, but attempt number three at filling and then coating (stain 2nd and third time) is starting to look like it may be successful! One more coat and I'll should be confident enough to post some update pictures! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scojack Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 Good luck m8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grangur Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 Fingers crossed.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 Waiting eagerly ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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