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Replacement footswitch for EHX Bass Micro Synth


fingerz
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Should be a standard DPDT (double throw, double pole) or 3PDT (triple pole, double throw) if I remember - it's been a while since I fixed any EHX stuff. It's probably soldered to its own daughter-board, then connected to the main board by ribbon cable, so you'll have to be careful when moving it about.

Could you take the back off and post a photograph on here?

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Hi Paul,

Thanks for the reply - it sounds like you are the man I need !

I have been in touch with EHX, and checked out different switches. It is a 3PDT switch, you're bang on. I'm not able to get a lot of time with the pedal at the moment, so it's tricky to take it apart for a photo - I'm hoping to get it off the board just to repair it ideally..
I had a look the other day when I tried to clean it. It has 6 tags on the under side (I imagine this is the 3PDT bit!). And a ribbon that connects it to the main board. I wonder how fiddly it is? I'm experienced with a soldering iron, and am hoping it's simply a case of disconnecting each tag and re-connecting the new switch making sure all corresponding points are on the right connection? A trip to Maplin (I don't rate their stuff but imagine a switch is a switch?), but happy to order better quality if it sorts me out. It's my job and I rely on my stuff so it needs to be right.

Thanks in advance, lifesaver! : )

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If it's got 6 lugs then it's a DPDT (2x3), a 3PDT would have 9 lugs. You *can* get a DPDT footswitch from Maplin, but they're cheaper (and better quality) from places like pedal parts:

[url="http://shop.pedalparts.co.uk/Alpha_DPDT_Footswitch_-_Latching/p847124_14395207.aspx"]http://shop.pedalpar...4_14395207.aspx[/url]

or doctortweek, (his site's been down for a while though).

Ideally I'd go for the 'Alpha' brand, or what are known as Taiwan Blue, as they're much better quality than the 99p eBay specials.

Whichever one you go for make sure it's a latching switch, otherwise you'll have to keep your foot on it all the time! ;)

Edited by paul_5
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FWIW I'd recommend desoldering the old switch from the board whilst it's still screwed onto the case. Use a desoldering tool, or similar to get the majority of the solder off first, then undo the nuts holding the switch to the case - saves wobbling the ribbon cable about too much when removing the old one.

Soldering it back in I'd look at doing this in reverse - screw the new switch in place (making sure that the lugs of the new switch line up with the holes on the daughterboard, then solder the new one in. :)

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Paul,

So, I've been pretty busy and the schedule has made it tough to get round to this..

I'm touring it on a show at the mo, I tried to get the old switch out but getting the solder off is a nightmare. I've swapped pcb mounted things numerous times before - but this is a real challenge. Do you have any tips? I'm using a solder sucker. I borrowed one of the crews soldering irons, maybe it's just not hot enough for the solid lead stuff these manufacturers like to use? Any tips appreciated!

Cheers,

Jo

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EHX will be using lead free solder in order to comply with regulations about hazardous substances (ROHS) - this melts at a higher temperature than good old 60/40 (lead and tin solder). You could try adding a fresh dab of solder to the joints, this can encourage the old solder to melt a bit sooner than it would with just an iron.

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