What to check when buying a fretless

[mike313]

Hi, im going to buy my first fretless electric bass.
I will buy a second hand instrument, still not sure wich one, but im looking at a Peavey Foundation right now.
From the pictures in the listening it looks like it could be around 15 years old. It has some minor scratches on the body but in general looks like it is in good condition. I will have the opportunity of trying it before buying it.

I would like to know, when I will have the instrument in my hands, what should I check? I know next to nothing about fretless basses. I suppose the neck could be worn-out from use, not having the frets between cords and wood? How much worn-out is accetable?
Also, not having frets it is supposed to sound clean and not make any "buzz noise" in any point of the neck?

There is something in particular I should check?

Thanks in advance!

[alyctes]

Look for long grooves in the fingerboard where the strings have worn the wood away. Some marking from strings might be okay, but if there are actual grooves I wouldn't buy it.

In your position I would consider a new Harley Benton. They are good quality for their price, and you should be able to get an idea of what a fretless should be like without spending a lot of money on it.

Edited October 11, 2015 by alyctes

[CamdenRob]

[quote name='alyctes' timestamp='1444604430' post='2884517']
Look for long grooves in the fingerboard where the strings have worn the wood away. Some marking from strings might be okay, but if there are actual grooves I wouldn't buy it.

In your position I would consider a new Harley Benton. They are good quality for their price, and you should be able to get an idea of what a fretless should be like without spending a lot of money on it.
[/quote]

This... sound advice.

[anzoid]

If it's a de-fret - i.e. where someone has at some point taken the frets off an "ordinary" bass, then make sure that whatever they've used to fill the gaps is level with the rest of the fingerboard. Best thing is that the gaps are filled with wood - which should (hopefully, all being well, etc) move with any other shifts in the fingerboard. Some people use plastic wood filer and, personally, I'm not a fan. Also, having wasted time on a buying a de-fretted bass - make sure a good job has been done and that where the frets have been taken out no (or very little) fingerboard wood has gone (and been filled...). The tangs of the frets sometimes rip the wood if the job wasn't done well and if nothing else it's plain ugly.

[anzoid]

Yeah, and what alcytes said about grooves - if the board is rosewood it is more likely to be grooved than an ebony board. Also, another thought - look down the length of the neck and check there aren't any dips or bumps - they'll kill your mwah

[mike313]

Thanks for the advice. Its not defretted, it is factory fretless, and it has the frets painted.

[paul_5]

Once you've checked for 'furrows' on the board, it's the same as any other bass - check that the neck is straight, and that the truss rod adjustment and bridge saddles work - setup on a fretless is critical if you're after the 'mwah'. Let's face it, who isn't?

[Beedster]

Generally speaking when I buy a new bass, especially a fretless, I really want to know how resonant it is, because despite what some folks say, I've always found that is the wood doesn't resonate, no amount of high quality electrics will make up for it. In fact a fretless that doesn't sustain well is about as much use as a chocolate teapot for most applications (and to be honest, the applications such a bass actually is OK for can just as well be performed on a fretted bass in my opinion). So, to check resonance I play it unplugged and stick my chin on the top horn. If I get a nice strong resonance in my chin and head, to me it's a very good sign. A little eccentric of course, but it works for me

[franzbassist]

[quote name='Beedster' timestamp='1444649071' post='2884704']
Generally speaking when I buy a new bass, especially a fretless, I really want to know how resonant it is, because despite what some folks say, I've always found that is the wood doesn't resonate, no amount of high quality electrics will make up for it. In fact a fretless that doesn't sustain well is about as much use as a chocolate teapot for most applications (and to be honest, the applications such a bass actually is OK for can just as well be performed on a fretted bass in my opinion). So, to check resonance I play it unplugged and stick my chin on the top horn. If I get a nice strong resonance in my chin and head, to me it's a very good sign. A little eccentric of course, but it works for me
[/quote]

I do this too

[chaypup]

An excellent way to test potential partners at speed dating events too.

[Grahambythesea]

[quote name='mike313' timestamp='1444646103' post='2884681']
Thanks for the advice. Its not defretted, it is factory fretless, and it has the frets painted.
[/quote]
Are you sure about the "painted" bit? Fret lines on a fretless should be inset either wood or plastic. If they are painted they will rub off with wear from the strings. If it is fitted with round wound strings you will get a good zingy sound but the strings will cut into the finger board very quickly particularly on budget models where the wood quality isn't the best. Better quality basses fit ebony finger boards which are harder, wear less and sound better.
I totally agree with the advice to try it unplugged and put your ear on the horn, the resonance is really important.
Also ensure that the tuning pegs are smooth, if they are lumpy then tuning probably won't hold. This true of all basses fretted or fretless.Check the intonation, does the harmonic at the 12th sound the same as the note and make sure that when you play in the higher registers that it not fouling the board and therefore giving an untrue note. Sometimes people over adjust the action and put it too low. Conversely too high an action makes it difficult to play and notes will not be on pitch. This also applies to the nut at the top of the fingerboard. It should be cut a little lower than you would for a fretted bass but often they are not. The first couple of positions should be effortless to play.
Personally I'd stick a set of flats on a.s.a.p but remember the gauges are usually a bit thicker than round wounds so the nut may need a bit of adjusting. Flats will not damage the fingerboard half as much as rounds.
Good luck.

Edited October 20, 2015 by Grahambythesea

[hubrad]

[quote name='anzoid' timestamp='1444640056' post='2884626']
If it's a de-fret - i.e. where someone has at some point taken the frets off an "ordinary" bass, then make sure that whatever they've used to fill the gaps is level with the rest of the fingerboard. Best thing is that the gaps are filled with wood - which should (hopefully, all being well, etc) move with any other shifts in the fingerboard. Some people use plastic wood filer and, personally, I'm not a fan. Also, having wasted time on a buying a de-fretted bass - make sure a good job has been done and that where the frets have been taken out no (or very little) fingerboard wood has gone (and been filled...). The tangs of the frets sometimes rip the wood if the job wasn't done well and if nothing else it's plain ugly.
[/quote]

All of this! I've done a few defrets, being predominantly a fretless player myself. Don't just assume a factory fretless will be right, though.
I got a Squier VM Jazz FL a couple of years back, just for the experiment you understand! A decent enough piece of kit in general, but the fingerboard was crap! Every fret line was in its own dip. I had to sand the whole fingerboard to make it usable. Sold it on in far better fettle than I bought it. :-)