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Single Cut Camphor and Alder PJ


Andyjr1515
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Thanks, folks :)

Still subject to final shaping and sanding, but the volute is now starting to take shape:



Progress will probably slow right down over the next couple of weeks - starting from tomorrow, we have pre-christmas visitors, followed by christmas visitors followed by post-christmas visitors...

If I don't post for a while, Have a Happy Christmas Everyone :D

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well, our last lot of Christmas guests have announced they are not going until next Monday so, on the basis of "f*** this for a game of soldiers", I'm going to carry on building when weather allows anyway :rolleyes:

I have finished the basic carve of the headstock, prior to final filling and finish-sanding:






Next job is finish sanding the fretboard and getting the frets in. Should be able to start that later today :)

Andy

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[quote name='Maude' timestamp='1451491087' post='2940927']
I love the shape of that headstock and the bevelled recess, if that's the right term.
I'd imagine coming up with a shape that isn't like anyone else's and looks good with such a small area can't be easy.
:)
[/quote]
Hi - thanks Maude :)

I always find that the biggest challenge is that - assuming you go for the preferred straight string runs - the geometry and therefore external shape boundaries are pretty much fixed. Usually there is relatively little scope for anything major. I stole the cut-out idea from Tom's African Fretless (thanks, Tom :D ) and embellished it a bit so I could reflect the horn styles into the resulting ebony shapes.

I'll be pleased to get back to this full time...there isn't a huge amount still to do but it needs time free from visitors! :rolleyes:

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OK, maybe it's from sobering up after too much booze over Christmas, but I am soooooooooooooo excited about this build.

Kert and I decided to go a bit modern with the pickup covers - they are large and in plain camphor actually DETRACTED from the camphor top rather than enhanced it. We discussed dyeing the camphor, or just using ebony covers but thought it would be worth trying something a little more avant garde...insetting some ebony into the camphor covers.

With that, and the finishing process starting to be done, this is what it is beginning to look like:



Ref the total shape, I knew the camphor would make it look pretty special, but there is an elegance that I was not expecting with a single cut...



Can't wait for this to be finished... head and shoulders the most satisfying build to date... :D

Andy

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[quote name='alittlebitrobot' timestamp='1451940287' post='2944895']
Wow, this is really coming together. Mind if I ask about your process for pickup covers?
[/quote]
Thanks, alittlebitrobot :)

To be honest, my process is pretty much 'make it up as I go along'. Basically, I took some offcut of the camphor top, routed out the chambers to within a couple of mm of breakthrough, then cut out the external shape - 3 to 4mm bigger all-round than the chambers - with a fine razor saw.

To inset the ebony, I used a dremel with precision router base and a 2.5mm router bit to VERY carefully take off just over a mm of the 2mm top for the thin ebony piece to slot into. This last step was pretty scary! Damn accurate those Dremels can be!!!!

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[quote name='alittlebitrobot' timestamp='1452030387' post='2945785']
well, it's VERY effective! I can't see any screws, though. Do these just sit on top with friction after you've set the pickup height?
[/quote]
Thanks!
And no - there will be small screws when it's finished. It would be possible to use magnets, but those might well interfere with the pickups, so small black crossheads is what I'll go for.

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[quote name='wwcringe' timestamp='1452179673' post='2947321']
very classy, very nice headstock ;) :P

very AJR...!! Nice one Andy, another fantastic bass in the works. I'd love to hear/play it when finished :)
[/quote]
Hi Tom !!! :)

Happy New Year! When are you going to let me re-tweak your neck profile? :D

Yes - really pleased with this one. Some of the finishing coats are going on prior to final sand of the fretboard and then fretting. It's looking better and better:


You will have seen the cut out in the headstock....now WHERE would I have got that idea from? :yarr: :lol:

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With the body now able to take a bit of handling, after the first coats of poly varnish but before the final coats, it is time for the fretting.

I re-did the sanding of the fretboard down to very fine grit, checked the slots, opened the tops of the slots slightly with a triangular needle file and started the process:



This is pretty much my kit (plus some fairly meaty fret-wire cutters out of picture)

I add a fine thread of titebond to the tangs, then hammer one side, then the other side, then the middle, then pop the radius block over and whack that a few times. Lastly, I wipe off the squidged titebond with a damp cloth and use the torch to double check full seating.

Here it is done, ready for trimming:



I'll leave this overnight for the titebond to fully harden, then trim the ends. Kert has opted for the slightly larger luminlay in blue for the side dots (none going on the top of the fretboard), which I will fit after I've trimmed and angled the fret-ends.

Thanks for looking and for your encouraging comments

Andy

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[quote name='Bastav' timestamp='1452290777' post='2948680']
Looking good! Will follow the fretting closely as that job is coming up for me later on in my build... Im a bit nervous about it tbh
[/quote]
Given a few hints and tips, the thought of it is a lot more scary than the doing of it :)

More than happy to post the techniques I've picked up along the way if they are of any interest...

Here it is, trimmed and ready for the fret ends to be filed nice and smooth:

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[quote name='FuNkShUi' timestamp='1452327442' post='2948838']
Confirmed..,.. Wet pants
[/quote]Quite rightly too. Having a custom built bass is exciting enough, but to then have a blow by blow pictorial build diary (and I'm guessing other person to person updates) is something extra special.

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[quote name='Bastav' timestamp='1452290777' post='2948680']
Looking good! Will follow the fretting closely as that job is coming up for me later on in my build... Im a bit nervous about it tbh
[/quote]

Hi, Bastav

Just a few of the more important hints and tips I've picked up along the way :) .

With the addition of a triangular needle file (of which more later), these are the tools I use:



I use the angled diamond file is used to angle the fret-ends after fitting...a bit of a luxury as it can be done with needle files. Having proper ground cutters are more important - it allows you to get right up to the fretboard when you are trimming the excess and are easier to keep sharp. Sharp cutters with decent leverage are quite important so that you are cutting the fretwire and not crushing/distorting it.


In terms of preparation, a couple of musts:[list]
[*]Make sure the fret slot is deep enough and clear of debris and glue. I use a standard hobby razor saw to do both things. Especially if you have radiused a pre-slotted board, you need to make sure that each side is still deep enough to take the fret tang
[*]File the top of the fret slots with a triangular needle file:
[/list]


Don't go too deep - you are just adding a bit of relief at the very top of the slot to reduce the chance of splitting

I buy coiled fretwire:


One advantage is that it is therefore already radiused and saves having to buy and use a radiuser

Note the little barbs on the tangs - these are quite important relating to how the frets are actually hammered in!:


The process I use for inserting the frets is fairly straightforward:[list]
[*]Support the neck under where you are going to put the fret on - I use one of Crimson Guitars splendid wooden neck supports
[*]Cut a piece of fretwire, allowing c 5mm each side
[*]I put a tiny thread of Titebond woodglue along the tangs
[*]Press the tang into the fretslot, making sure it is centred and upright
[*]Hammer one side of the fret, making sure it is properly seated
[*]The hammer down the other side
[*]This leaves a raised hump in the middle. This is important. So far, the barbs have gone straight down, furrowing a groove in the wood which would otherwise be capable of furrowing themselves back out again
[*]Now hammer down the middle of the fret - this forces the two ends outwards, and thus the barbs now cut [i]sideways[/i] in the slot and securing themselves under firm wood
[*]I then wipe the excess glue off with a damp cloth, then place the radius block over the fret and hammer middle and sides a few times to ensure it is fully seated
[*]If any more glue has squidged out, I wipe that off too
[/list]
And that's about it. Leave for the titebond to fully harden, then take off the excess right up to the fretboard with the clippers, ready for filing the ends and levelling, crowning and polishing.

Hope this helps :)

Andy

Edited by Andyjr1515
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