GCYPbass Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 Hi everybody, The previous owner of my bass did very very bad job while installing flushmount straplocks. Screw heads are stripped and I could manage to unscrew only one. So I need help about how to unscrew the other one. There are some coventional methods but they will not work because I don't have an easy access to screw in the straplock. Any body had a similar problem and how did they manage to unscrew? I would like to fill the holes up as I much prefer normal straplocks over flushmount. I am thinking of using some sawdust/wood dust and glue to fill them up. Will it be strong enough? Is there any other/better methods? Thanks in advance for all the suggestions and help. GC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bartelby Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 Piece of dowel, glued in and sanded flush. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezbass Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 To remove the screw, I suggest drilling a hole into the screw and then knocking in a pointed file (or something similar). Once knocked in, use the implement to unscrew the offending stripped head screw. To fill the remaining hole, find a similarly sized piece of dowel, glue this in and level with the body. Finally, drill a normal hole for the new strap buttons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GCYPbass Posted October 14, 2015 Author Share Posted October 14, 2015 (edited) I thought about the dowel to fill the hole but first the holes are not even as the previous owner did horrible job and the second I am a bit scared of stripping the paint off while levelling it. Edited October 14, 2015 by GCYPbass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt P Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 I think the dowel option is the best, you might have to shape it to fit into the holes, or possibly drill the hole out a tiny bit to get it round, if that seems like too much work then I'd take it to an expert, it's not a huge job so shouldn't cost the earth. when it comes to strap buttons you really want it to be a good solid job. nothing worse than your pride and joy falling to the ground at your next gig! Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmorris Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 Get a piece of dowel that best fits (shape it to suit if practicable). Make sure the hole is clean inside. put a good measure of wood glue into the cavity. Push dowel in. Excess wood glue will come out of the hole - wipe it up quickly. The glue should fill small gaps between the dowel and the wall of the cavity. Position bass so that gravity is in your favour keeping dowel in the hole - it probably not practicable to clamp it but you could try a piece of masking tape or similar if it seems necessary. Leave to set. I'd suggest using a standard type glue (ie not fast drying as these can give a slightly weaker join although it would probably be fine.) Be patient and leave to set 24hr minimum. Resulting join should be as strong as, or stronger, than wood itself. You will need to sand down to get a uniform finish - use masking tape and take your time, Any minor issues will likely be covered / obscured by the new straplock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcDan Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 I am dealing with the same problem and have chosen to go for the dowel option. The internet offers a variety of solutions for removing the damaged screw. (Stew Mac). Once you have removed the damaged screw, drill out the hole to the same diameter as the dowel. Measure the length of the dowel to accommodate the screw you will be using. Notch the length of the dowel to allow the glue to run out when you tap it in. If you have measured the length of the dowel accurately you will not need to do too much on the way finishing it (doh!) and it will fit so snuggly that it will not fall out at all - otherwise mask the wood/finish surrounding the filled hole and gently sand back the excess dowel wood- you will probably need to replace the masking tape many times to avoid cutting into the finish as it wears away very quickly. An interesting alternative to the dowel is to be found on Crimson Guitars website where Ben has used metal screw inserts and machine screws to secure the strap buttons. I hope this helps. MD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big_Stu Posted October 21, 2015 Share Posted October 21, 2015 [quote name='GCYPbass' timestamp='1444842889' post='2886635']The previous owner of my bass did very very bad job while installing flushmount straplocks. Screw heads are stripped and I could manage to unscrew only one. So I need help about how to unscrew the other one. There are some coventional methods but they will not work because I don't have an easy access to screw in the straplock. Any body had a similar problem and how did they manage to unscrew?[/quote] Yeah, took out a shredded screw head with one of these, use a hand screwdriver - not electric. [url="http://www.screwfix.com/p/screw-extractor-5-piece-set/18643"]http://www.screwfix....piece-set/18643[/url] [quote name='GCYPbass' timestamp='1444842889' post='2886635']I would like to fill the holes up as I much prefer normal straplocks over flushmount. I am thinking of using some sawdust/wood dust and glue to fill them up. Will it be strong enough? Is there any other/better methods?[/quote] It's too big a hole for the sawdust and glue trick. As others have said - dowel is the way to go. A good timber merchant would have some hardwood dowel, remember to file the grooves down the side of the dowel as has also already been said, it lets out excess glue and also allows a bit of "give" if it's too snug a fit - which can cause the guitar wood to split around the hole. Sand it flush and get one of those felt washers to go under the strap stud and only you will know it's there. I've done both jobs and it's not as hard as it sounds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted October 24, 2015 Share Posted October 24, 2015 [quote name='GCYPbass' timestamp='1444844210' post='2886669'] I thought about the dowel to fill the hole but first the holes are not even as the previous owner did horrible job and the second I am a bit scared of stripping the paint off while levelling it. [/quote] Before you put the dowel in, pop some masking tape over to protect the paint and cut the hole out with a sharp knife. When the dowel is in, cut it flush with a flexi saw ( Stanley fat max or Irvine - both cheap from Homebase / B&Q), then peel off the masking tape before the glue dries Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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