ahpook Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 (edited) Picked this up from Guitarbuild last week as part of their 'Black Friday' sale [url="https://flic.kr/p/Bb63eZ"][/url] I'm planning a pretty simple finish - a good sanding and then Danish Oil. It's a lovely bit of wood in the flesh and I fancy a change form my usual black. I've got most the parts in my bits box, and here it is with a Squier CV Jazz neck which may end up being the neck I use for the time being. I fancy something block-inlayed at some point though. [url="https://flic.kr/p/Bz1Zkf"][/url] Not sure about the black (Hammerite, natch) control plate yet, but it completes the picture. Edited December 1, 2015 by ahpook Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
King Tut Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 Very nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahpook Posted December 1, 2015 Author Share Posted December 1, 2015 Thanks :0 If anyone's got any tips about using Danish Oil then they'd be most welcome. Beedster's been most generous with advice as it's a bass he sold recently that got me interested in Danish Oil finishes, and so kick-started this project, which has been on the to-do list for years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubis Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 Are you grain filling before applying the Danish oil? With finishes such as Tru-oil, some prefer to fill using the "slurry method" (there are lots of tutorials out there) but basically you finish sand with sand paper/wet and dry which is lubricated with the oil, which then forms a slurry with the fine dust and grain fills as you go. Also, I've found it tricky finding truly lint free cloths if you are doing a rub on finish, and you end up with one or two tiny fibres in your hard earned finish, which you know are there! So I tried using coffee filter papers which you can wear like a little mitten and it works quite well and doesn't drop any fibres God luck Harry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahpook Posted December 9, 2015 Author Share Posted December 9, 2015 Thanks for the advice Harry - I'd read about the slurry method and was still mulling over whether to try that (all work is forbidden on the bass until the final cupboard's up in the kitchen !). I don't mind a more 'open' feel to the wood though, so I'm still 50-50. Top tip for the filter papers - I'll give that a try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truckstop Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 Once you've done ten or so passes with the oil (sanding back with wet and dry each time) you can finish with a few coats of beeswax for a little extra protection and a lovely satin finish. If you just leave it as Danish Oil, you could end up with shiny patches where your arms comes into contact with the body. Personally, I'd be expecting to spend around two months getting the finish right. At least a day on each coat of Danish oil and a few days for each coat of wax too. Time consuming, but you'll never feel more proud of your beautiful finish! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahpook Posted December 9, 2015 Author Share Posted December 9, 2015 I'd read about beeswax for a final finish would make it more durable ? OK....something else to bear in mind. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 [quote name='rubis' timestamp='1449668710' post='2925775'] Are you grain filling before applying the Danish oil? With finishes such as Tru-oil, some prefer to fill using the "slurry method" (there are lots of tutorials out there) but basically you finish sand with sand paper/wet and dry which is lubricated with the oil, which then forms a slurry with the fine dust and grain fills as you go. Also, I've found it tricky finding truly lint free cloths if you are doing a rub on finish, and you end up with one or two tiny fibres in your hard earned finish, which you know are there! So I tried using coffee filter papers which you can wear like a little mitten and it works quite well and doesn't drop any fibres God luck Harry [/quote] Micro-fibre cloths are pretty much always lint-free. I used to have loads of problems until I started using those. I also use a glass-cleaning micro-fibre as a tack rag nowadays...got utterly p****d off by 'specially made for the job' traditional tack rags leaving bits all over the place! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubis Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 I'll get some of those Andy, cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manton Customs Posted December 9, 2015 Share Posted December 9, 2015 If you go for a grain filler, you may struggle a bit with the 'slurry' method on Ash. That method works fairly well on small pores like Walnut, but Ash usually has great big chasms which may be a bit too much for the slurry to achieve a 100% fill. You'd be better off buying a either a purpose made paste grain filler or Epoxy, it'd certainly be quicker! Though if I were you I'd probably leave the pores and have it feeling a bit more natural, that's supposed to be what an oil finish is all about anyway . Looks like a fun project, good luck! . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahpook Posted December 11, 2015 Author Share Posted December 11, 2015 [quote name='Manton Customs' timestamp='1449692036' post='2926083'] Though if I were you I'd probably leave the pores and have it feeling a bit more natural, that's supposed to be what an oil finish is all about anyway . Looks like a fun project, good luck! . [/quote] Thanks This is really what I'm thinking. All my other basses are glossy (black) finishes, so something very 'wood' is quite the ticket, but all thoughts are very much welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahpook Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 Wow, was that almost 6 weeks ago ? Oh well, I have been finishing the kitchen ! Got to grips with the body today and gave it a good sand from 180 down to 320, lovely afternoon's work with the shed door open and a robin for company, then I wiped it down and tomorrow will see another 320 in a different light and a good onceover. Feels great already and the sanding's brought out the grain really nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 Happy New Year and welcome back!!!!! Looking forward to seeing the progress.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahpook Posted January 26, 2016 Author Share Posted January 26, 2016 (edited) Down to 400 this afternoon, the grain looked even nicer after I'd wiped it down with some white spirit. I took a photo, but the difference to the one above is minimal...but here it is anyway ! Edited January 26, 2016 by ahpook Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bottle Posted February 25, 2016 Share Posted February 25, 2016 Hey dude! Looking good my friend Have you settled on the control layout yet? Are you going with the standard VVT controls? I found that modding my Ibanez Jazz clone with a series/parallel switch brought out some lovely mid tones that aren't as obvious when in normal parallel VVT mode. Should be a fairly simple mod with a pull pot or toggle switch. Interested to see how this build progresses! Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahpook Posted March 11, 2016 Author Share Posted March 11, 2016 (edited) Started on the first coat of Danish Oil yesterday, and wow, did the body soak up the oil ? I'd expected it to, but not as much as it did - it's quite magical to watch. Lots of wiping and spreading and here's the result the next day And it's come up an awful lot darker than the bare wood...didn't realise it would be quite so dark (especially the end grain), which I'll admit is alittle bit of a shame as I liked the lightness of the wood. No biggie - you live and learn...part of what this was all about. I've brought the body into the house to warm up a little and I'll get on with the second coat today. Edited March 11, 2016 by ahpook Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manton Customs Posted March 11, 2016 Share Posted March 11, 2016 [quote name='ahpook' timestamp='1457691090' post='3000948'] And it's come up an awful lot darker than the bare wood...didn't realise it would be quite so dark (especially the end grain), which I'll admit is alittle bit of a shame as I liked the lightness of the wood. No biggie - you live and learn...part of what this was all about. [/quote] That's most likely the Linseed in the Danish Oil causing it to go a little darker than expected. Something Tung oil based may not have darkened so much, though an oil finish will always darken the wood a bit. You could rub back and resume with Tung oil pretty easily if you'd prefer a paler looking bass. Though it looks nice as is to me . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahpook Posted March 11, 2016 Author Share Posted March 11, 2016 [quote name='Manton Customs' timestamp='1457700691' post='3001080'] That's most likely the Linseed in the Danish Oil causing it to go a little darker than expected. Something Tung oil based may not have darkened so much, though an oil finish will always darken the wood a bit. You could rub back and resume with Tung oil pretty easily if you'd prefer a paler looking bass. Though it looks nice as is to me . [/quote] OK, good to know about the Tung oil. The second coat is drying now, absorbed a fraction of what t did yesterday, and overall it's darkened a little, and some of the front grain has a red tint to it. Looking good ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahpook Posted March 11, 2016 Author Share Posted March 11, 2016 (edited) And here's a very quick mock-up - think it'll look better with a silver control plate, but chuffed so far. Third coat tomorrow and then some beeswax wood wax. I have a gig on Tuesday...I could be ready by then ! Edited March 11, 2016 by ahpook Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahpook Posted March 12, 2016 Author Share Posted March 12, 2016 Here's one from this afternoon, whilst applying the second coat...bit of workbench porn as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahpook Posted March 12, 2016 Author Share Posted March 12, 2016 And here it is today, third coat drying When I started this morning my worst fears were confirmed - I'd missed a patch about the size of a playing card on the ribcage contour and it was now a shiny patch. That and a few odd dots here and there.... Hmmm After some reading up on the Web I tried a little bit of wire wool...very gently on a patch which will sit under the neck plate...and the patch slowly disappeared and the finish wasn't affected, so I tried that on all the patches and eventually gave the whole body a once-over and it evened up the finish. The third coat went on in and most of it came off ! Endgrain was still pretty thirsty but filled up eventually. What you see above is Mrs. Pook very kindly holding up the bass as it is now in the wan spring Tottenham sunset, and it looks lovely. The finish has smoothed out beautifully and there are coppery hues in there and greens/browns in the endgrain. Next step..Beeswax polish after a few day's drying off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahpook Posted March 12, 2016 Author Share Posted March 12, 2016 [quote name='Bottle' timestamp='1456403986' post='2988597'] Hey dude! Looking good my friend Have you settled on the control layout yet? Are you going with the standard VVT controls? I found that modding my Ibanez Jazz clone with a series/parallel switch brought out some lovely mid tones that aren't as obvious when in normal parallel VVT mode. Should be a fairly simple mod with a pull pot or toggle switch. [/quote] I'm sorry - I missed you question, my apologies ! I was going to go for the standard VVT, but as I have a couple of stacked pots in my bits box it's possible I'll use those instead.... Not sure really ! The series/parallel sounds interesting tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bottle Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 [quote name='ahpook' timestamp='1457804099' post='3001967'] I'm sorry - I missed you question, my apologies ! I was going to go for the standard VVT, but as I have a couple of stacked pots in my bits box it's possible I'll use those instead.... Not sure really ! The series/parallel sounds interesting tho. [/quote] It's very similar to the Fender S1 option on the Jazzes - pops the mids up quite a bit as well as the overall volume Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted March 15, 2016 Share Posted March 15, 2016 That's looking very good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahpook Posted March 21, 2016 Author Share Posted March 21, 2016 (edited) OK, bit of a teaser here. Bought some Colron Beeswax today and get two nice even coats on and buffed off this afternoon. Was thinking of another coat, but didn't want it to go too dark.....so I popped the neck on, just to see how it looked...and then the bridge as well. It's actually assembled now with a pickup and scratchplate, but I'm going to wait until tomorrow to get some decent pictures of it. In the meantime, here's an action shot of me fitting the bridge. The copper earthing strip is a piece of shielding tape, folded over a few times. It looks lovely - I'm very pleased. Edited March 21, 2016 by ahpook Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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