Squire VM jazz modification (bridge)

[davegriffiths91]

Hey folks.
I got a Vm jazz around a year ago and I am looking to make some improvements.
I've not done modifications to any instruments before so I'm looking to try make it as easy as possible!
The bass currently has a 5 hole bridge but I am looking to fit a 3 hole bridge, the one below to be precise!

https://m.thomann.de/gb/schaller_3d4b.htm?o=8&ref=mal_a_8&search=1450131335

My question is will it be a direct fit or will I need to drill new holes? I'd rather
Not have to do any routing as I don't really have much experience or the tools to do it!
If that doesn't fit, any other bridge suggestions will be considered!
Thanks

[ahpook]

If I remember correctly, you can use the same centre hole, but will need to drill new holes for the outer two.

[HowieBass]

You'd also want to check you've got enough adjustment in intonation with the Schaller compared to the current saddle positions if you intend to use the same centre hole as a datum point - the trouble is you'd need to have the new bridge to hand to check the measurements. It's not difficult to reposition bridge mounting screws as long as you've enough fresh body timber to take the pilot holes - I did it with a Cort B4FL I bought secondhand (though you can always plug existing holes).

But I'm going to raise something here that other BCers will have opinions on - the 'need' for a replacement bridge at all and whether something like that is a real enhancement or not? There have been many debates on here about high-mass vs BBOT bridges and whether you get any improvement in tone. If you need more adjustment with the current bridge you could consider swapping the existing saddles for vintage threaded saddles so you can vary the string spacing.

[Norris]

Also check that the saddles are the same height or at least within the adjustment range

[ikay]

Detailed dimensions for the Schaller 3D can be found here (click on the 'Technical drawing' tab):
- [url="http://guitar-parts.biz/hp135061/Bassbridge-3D-4.htm?ITServ=C24f0418cX151a5f8746fX1d2d"]http://guitar-parts.biz/hp135061/Bassbridge-3D-4.htm?ITServ=C24f0418cX151a5f8746fX1d2d[/url]

[gary mac]

A few years back I modded a VM Jazz. The biggest improvement and by far the most worthwhile mod, was replacing the already fairly decent pups with a set of Wizard 64's.
I did also replace the bridge with a Baddass, which arguably looked better but I can't say, actually made any difference tonally.

Personally if I were considering modding another one, I probably wouldn't change the existing bridge but if it needed changing, then my choice would be a Gotoh 201, which I think is better value, better looking and better for getting a lower string height, without the need to shim the neck.

[iiipopes]

I have a frankenbass with a VM J-body but a VM P-neck. Good bass. I have been considering modifying my bridge to narrow the string spacing from 19 mm to 18 mm, just for personal preference.

After some experimentation, I have come to the conclusion that modifications don't gain anything on this particular model.

[davegriffiths91]

I'm putting a set of MECs in place of the stock pickups that I have picked up on here from another user.
I plan to combine them with a new preamp (of which I am undecided yet but I dont want it to break the bank!)
I am looking at changing the bridge mainly for aesthetic purposes and for the increase in sustain etc.
I then plan to change the machine heads to complete the look and again improve the bass.
It's a great bass to be fair and I often chose it at the more rockier gigs I play. I am looking to make improvements as abit of a project for myself and to improve the bass where I can but without breaking the bank!

[HowieBass]

A new, high-mass bridge is not a guaranteed way to increase sustain - the existing bridge ought to be quite capable of holding the strings firmly. I also question the need for increasing sustain too; how many times have you found yourself wanting a note to keep on sounding? You'll find most players wanting to develop techniques to selectively mute strings rather than keep them ringing in which case any increase in sustain you manage to achieve with a different bridge is effectively useless. Your biggest gain with a new bridge is really just going to be for aesthetics.

[Andyjr1515]

For the MEC's (I'm assuming they are passive ) I can thoroughly recommend this Seymour Duncan EQ http://www.thomann.de/gb/seymour_duncan_stc2p.htm
I fitted the 3 band version with MEC's to my thumb tribute, but have since used the 2 band version and found it just as flexible but more intuitive. I have one fitted to my own bass and am fitting one also to kert's camphor and alder single cut presently in the build threads. It is, however, quite big and 9v powered, so would need some routing work

I love that bridge but agree with others...it looks great but won't make an appreciable difference to the sound.

[brensabre79]

I also modded my VM Jazz. I tried a Badass bridge, but ended up with a Gotoh 201. I'll second what was said above about pickups (I also put Wizards in mine), they made the biggest improvement for me - along with the pots. Second was the machine heads. Third was the bridge - although it didn't make much difference to the sound and playability, in my mind it just felt more solid.

Eventually I also replaced the neck and the body too and rebuilt the VM as stock from the leftovers . Still, it's a good way to buy a new bass if you're not into credit cards.

[Pete1967]

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1450259699' post='2930959']
For the MEC's (I'm assuming they are passive ) I can thoroughly recommend this Seymour Duncan EQ [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/seymour_duncan_stc2p.htm"]http://www.thomann.d...uncan_stc2p.htm[/url]
I fitted the 3 band version with MEC's to my thumb tribute, but have since used the 2 band version and found it just as flexible but more intuitive. I have one fitted to my own bass and am fitting one also to kert's camphor and alder single cut presently in the build threads. It is, however, quite big and 9v powered, so would need some routing work

[/quote]

Just to second Andy's recommendation for the pre. It's massively underrated for my money. I've recommended it and put it in two builds recently, one with DiMarzio UJ's and the other with SD SSB's, and both sounded awesome.... and I've had feedback that it works particularly well live. Don't forget though that to fit a pre to a VMJ you may well need to do some routing to accommodate it and the battery. There are some that will fit in a Jazz front rout, but they tend to be the pricier option.

Re the bridge, if you're looking mainly for aesthetic improvement then have a look for a Korean or Chinese made high mass retrofit. They'll give you the look you're after and, in my experience, still work better than the original. Perhaps have a look at CH Guitar's website. There's no doubting that you'll not find better than Schaller though... but is it really value in this case?

[iiipopes]

With all the planned mods that will cost a substantial amount of money, why not just play the bass as-is while saving the money to purchase another bass?

[davegriffiths91]

[quote name='iiipopes' timestamp='1450295128' post='2931514']
With all the planned mods that will cost a substantial amount of money, why not just play the bass as-is while saving the money to purchase another bass?
[/quote]

This isn't an overnight thing just more of a project to keep me busy. Plus for the money I am spending,I wouldn't be able to get a bass with that sort of quality with regards to pickups etc.
It is a great bass as stock and if the mods don't work out I can return the stock parts and continue playing it.
The bass itself was a gift so it's not as if I have paid 250 then I'm going to put a further 250 on top.

As for the other suggestions, thanks everyone! I'd prefer not to do any routing as I don't have any experience or the correct tools for the job!