Warwick Corvette FNA Jazzman Restoration

[goblin]

So recently, I lay hands upon a gorgeous Corvette FNA Jazzman 5, and it makes a great backup to the Infinity. Already in a good condition with no knocks or anything, but true to many pale Warwicks, the finish has dulled over time and that's not looking so great.

[URL=http://s88.photobucket.com/user/goblin92/media/Basses/18E74B53-DF2A-4D23-84D9-5A355F871A33_zpsw4ymhh0u.jpg.html][IMG]http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k195/goblin92/Basses/18E74B53-DF2A-4D23-84D9-5A355F871A33_zpsw4ymhh0u.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s88.photobucket.com/user/goblin92/media/Basses/B0313FD7-1E80-4E58-A65D-72B406A39A77_zpszmwzlvjr.jpg.html][IMG]http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k195/goblin92/Basses/B0313FD7-1E80-4E58-A65D-72B406A39A77_zpszmwzlvjr.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s88.photobucket.com/user/goblin92/media/Basses/f892b5bb-cc0c-4693-8eb3-28ec054cff9d_zpsjdzg6q4s.jpg.html][IMG]http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k195/goblin92/Basses/f892b5bb-cc0c-4693-8eb3-28ec054cff9d_zpsjdzg6q4s.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Given it's age (2000), the gold knobs have started to fade and are almost chrome, and the volume one was completely missing. The just a nut 2 was also broken, which is to be expected, and Warwicks of that period didn't come with strap locks, which for me are essential - So, new brass Just A Nut III, some gold recessed strap locks, and some new Warwick gold knobs all ordered... but that leaves the rest of the bass looking a bit dull.

So the plan now, is to completely strip it back and go for a refinish. There's a dent which can be seen in the below pic from where in a previous life it's had a thumb resting on a pickup, so that needs to be sorted. I'll sand out all of the darker bits, and then I'm intending to give it around five coats of tru oil, as advised by a friend from Alpher Guitars.

[URL=http://s88.photobucket.com/user/goblin92/media/Basses/793CCE99-1580-450D-ACB9-12AEA16BFB0D_zpspwe5whhb.jpg.html][IMG]http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k195/goblin92/Basses/793CCE99-1580-450D-ACB9-12AEA16BFB0D_zpspwe5whhb.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Coming apart nicely, easily one of the most impressive bridge systems I've seen! (In my opinion of course)

[URL=http://s88.photobucket.com/user/goblin92/media/Basses/B8825446-ACD8-4063-9CEF-59806CD69ED8_zpsqej5xmqa.jpg.html][IMG]http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k195/goblin92/Basses/B8825446-ACD8-4063-9CEF-59806CD69ED8_zpsqej5xmqa.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

And so far, so good!

[URL=http://s88.photobucket.com/user/goblin92/media/Basses/BFDAFC7B-CC71-4442-89E6-F61F3E986E87_zpscc2vx7l6.jpg.html][IMG]http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k195/goblin92/Basses/BFDAFC7B-CC71-4442-89E6-F61F3E986E87_zpscc2vx7l6.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[Andyjr1515]

Lovely looking bass. Should come out like new. Yeah - the Warwick hardware is very well designed for adjustment, etc.. Will be watching with great interest.

[White Cloud]

Beautiful bass, I cant wait to see the results.

[PlungerModerno]

Should be wonderful when it's done.
I'd be keen to get a super high gloss finish . . . it would really make that wood pop. Tru Oil should bring it back to perfect (or within sight of it).

[goblin]

Everything crossed it goes well, I'm going to be working on removing a couple of dents and buckle rash today, and there's a small wood repair I need to do on the rear around one of the neck screw ferrules.

I considered a high gloss, but with this one being my backup bass, I can't justify the extra cost to get that done, I had my Infinity done like that recently (another thread on here somewhere), and it's absolutely gorgeous. Tru Oil is definitely how I want to go with this one

[Marillionred]

I am lucky enough to have a 2007 custom shop FNA Jazzman 5er. The custom option appears to be - the hard clear coat. I too went for a JAN3 in brass. It does indeed look (and sound) glorious. Looking forward to seeing the finished result!

[goblin]

Well everyone likes progress and an update!

Stripped all the finish off now, that wax finish still goes pretty deep! Also removed all the dents and the green bits, so it will end up like new! Started very coarse with grit 80 yesterday:

[URL=http://s88.photobucket.com/user/goblin92/media/Basses/FDCA726A-0489-4CDF-AA48-E1EB8C867580_zpsraxxwwh7.jpg.html][IMG]http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k195/goblin92/Basses/FDCA726A-0489-4CDF-AA48-E1EB8C867580_zpsraxxwwh7.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s88.photobucket.com/user/goblin92/media/Basses/962153A6-8087-4057-AB55-C6EB6A57A0D4_zpsv4plrjhy.jpg.html][IMG]http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k195/goblin92/Basses/962153A6-8087-4057-AB55-C6EB6A57A0D4_zpsv4plrjhy.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s88.photobucket.com/user/goblin92/media/Basses/496F14E3-E806-4745-B83A-73C371FE8FD5_zpsfxbfn9ln.jpg.html][IMG]http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k195/goblin92/Basses/496F14E3-E806-4745-B83A-73C371FE8FD5_zpsfxbfn9ln.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Also, to see the colour difference:

[URL=http://s88.photobucket.com/user/goblin92/media/Basses/476103A7-1565-4858-B7F9-7A931D4E48E2_zps6quijil2.jpg.html][IMG]http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k195/goblin92/Basses/476103A7-1565-4858-B7F9-7A931D4E48E2_zps6quijil2.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Each night I dampen the wood to raise the grain, and also I like to see the flame! Today I sanded at 120 grit, then dampened the grain again:

[URL=http://s88.photobucket.com/user/goblin92/media/Basses/FF296734-4072-4A3B-847E-7A0A85413649_zpsoxddmk9l.jpg.html][IMG]http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k195/goblin92/Basses/FF296734-4072-4A3B-847E-7A0A85413649_zpsoxddmk9l.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s88.photobucket.com/user/goblin92/media/Basses/14CD83CB-2FBC-4731-9061-3FCB83048CFE_zpsifctukxg.jpg.html][IMG]http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k195/goblin92/Basses/14CD83CB-2FBC-4731-9061-3FCB83048CFE_zpsifctukxg.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Also had a nice delivery today with shiny bits, so the new nut is also on!

[URL=http://s88.photobucket.com/user/goblin92/media/Basses/DF62D8CE-6E21-4250-9535-BEF03A4F52B7_zps3dn0b1b2.jpg.html][IMG]http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k195/goblin92/Basses/DF62D8CE-6E21-4250-9535-BEF03A4F52B7_zps3dn0b1b2.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[PlungerModerno]

Well on the way to beauty . . .
Since you are using water to get a smoother finish . . . don't hit it with tru oil after you finish sanding. Leave it a few days to let all the excess water near the surface work its way out.

[goblin]

Definitely playing it as safe as I can to avoid any issues, would it be worth leaving it in a room with a dehumidifier too?

[Kev]

[quote name='goblin' timestamp='1454539281' post='2970736']
Definitely playing it as safe as I can to avoid any issues, would it be worth leaving it in a room with a dehumidifier too?
[/quote]

Any advice that Chris at Alpher has given you, follow it. The guy knows how to oil his wood like no other....

[goblin]

Take that as you will guys

[goblin]

Well everyone likes an update, and to be honest I've been so stuck in with things that I haven't had chance to update on here.

Lots more sanding took place, making sure I didn't over or under sand in any places, the curves around the horns were the trickiest. But to get the best finish, for the flat surfaces I made us of a piece of timber, smoothed it down and used that as a sanding block, and then a piece of foam with sand paper wrapped around it for the curvy bits - both of which proved to be really effective. Between grades, I always wet down the body as well, to allow the grain to swell which would give a smoother end result, match this with sanding to 2500 grit, I almost didn't want to oil it the finish was that good!

[url="http://s88.photobucket.com/user/goblin92/media/Basses/BFF10FFC-D7E5-4005-9A34-0D0FA1EDF9B3_zpsjlsznuok.jpg.html"][/url]

I also drilled out the holes for the recessed straploks, using the pre existing screw hole as a pilot for the drill. Scariest part of the job, but a perfect fit!

[url="http://s88.photobucket.com/user/goblin92/media/Basses/D41DD926-ED4B-4C50-9E1B-2DCBA02D6A17_zpshrtjb1vm.jpg.html"][/url]

As it was around half past midnight today when I finished sanding, I called it a day to give my arm a rest, and today was the biggy. I started by removing all of the sawdust from the various cavities, and giving the body a once over with some paint prep wipes:

[url="http://s88.photobucket.com/user/goblin92/media/Basses/5A216FEF-C582-4171-953B-E8843AF0003C_zps0vtv0i4m.jpg.html"][/url]

Whilst this was drying, and preferably before oiling, I needed to work out a way of suspending the body to dry, so I could do full coats at a time. About 5 minutes of mooching around the house, I came up with this solution... I'm definitely the son of an engineer!

[URL=http://s88.photobucket.com/user/goblin92/media/Basses/A16B21B2-FEAE-45AD-9B15-82DDC9B40A01_zps0j5nhioz.jpg.html][IMG]http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k195/goblin92/Basses/A16B21B2-FEAE-45AD-9B15-82DDC9B40A01_zps0j5nhioz.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

And finally, the pic below shows the body after having it's first coat of oil applied, and is currently hanging to cure for 24 hours before I flat it again with 0000 wire wool

[url="http://s88.photobucket.com/user/goblin92/media/Basses/D08C48E3-4375-4B57-9C6F-DC0DF9019198_zpsnfjnxkqk.jpg.html"][/url]

Edited February 11, 2016 by goblin

[Norris]

That's looking lovely

[allighatt0r]

Love the ingenuity there with the hanging rig, that's great!

[Grangur]

It's looking great, but doesn't Tru-oil give a high gloss finish?
Have to say high gloss wouldn't be my choice for a Warwick, but each to their own.

I'd use boiled linseed oil, which gives a satin sheen. I guess the advantage of Tru-oil is it's non permeable - in the same way as a varnish.

[Andyjr1515]

Looking really good, Goblin. Based on this thread I have suffered terrible GAS for a Corvette!

Are you going to go for the slurry and buff method ref the tru-oil?

[Andyjr1515]

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1455267396' post='2977564']
It's looking great, but doesn't Tru-oil give a high gloss finish?
Have to say high gloss wouldn't be my choice for a Warwick, but each to their own.

I'd use boiled linseed oil, which gives a satin sheen. I guess the advantage of Tru-oil is it's non permeable - in the same way as a varnish.
[/quote]
Not with the slurry and buff method, Grangur. Hence my question to Goblin.

You can't easily use the slurry/buff method for a stained wood, but it is ideal for natural wood. It produces a silky smooth, satin finish that is fully protective but still feels like real wood. I think it would be perfect for this.

[Grangur]

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1455267932' post='2977571']
Not with the slurry and buff method, Grangur. Hence my question to Goblin.

You can't easily use the slurry/buff method for a stained wood, but it is ideal for natural wood. It produces a silky smooth, satin finish that is fully protective but still feels like real wood. I think it would be perfect for this.
[/quote]

Sounds good. How do you do that? I'm guessing you simply put on a thin coat as I would normally with Linseed?

I once saw a gloss Warwick for sale and I don't think the gloss was helpful to it selling.

[goblin]

Cheers guys

There are various ways you can finish tru oil, I'm not fussed about going for the slurry and buff, given that the wood has been sanded to 2500 anyway, it wouldn't make much difference as the wood had a nice sheen to it before I'd even got anywhere near it with oil. Like anything, it has to be built up in coats, between 5 and 10 is ideal. The way I'll be doing the finish is a coat at a time with a very light rubbing with 0000 wire wool between coats to build it up, and this should give a rather nice sheen over the instrument, but not gloss.

[Andyjr1515]

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1455272709' post='2977618']
Sounds good. How do you do that? I'm guessing you simply put on a thin coat as I would normally with Linseed?

I once saw a gloss Warwick for sale and I don't think the gloss was helpful to it selling.
[/quote]
It's a technique I have seen in a couple of the other forums. To be honest, I think it's how they use Tru-oil on gunstocks, which is where Tru-oil originated. It is VERY easy to do. You simply apply a dollop of tru-oil, then use c 1000 grit (or finer) wet and dry and use the tru-oil as the lubrication. This forms a very fine slurry that fills the minute voids and grain. You leave it 5 mins or so, and then wipe / buff it off. Do that 2-3 times and it's usually done. Then leave it overnight before final buff and, usually, it's ready to play!

I do most of my necks that way - they end up silky smooth and very organic feeling - and, if it's natural wood, it's my preferred method for the bodies. These two were done like that - total finishing time was around 3 days from bare wood to being able to play it:





Interestingly, I saw the bottom one in a gig last night. It's been heavily gigged (multiple times a week) for most of 2015 and it still looks like this...

[Andyjr1515]

[quote name='goblin' timestamp='1455277423' post='2977678']
Cheers guys

There are various ways you can finish tru oil, I'm not fussed about going for the slurry and buff, given that the wood has been sanded to 2500 anyway, it wouldn't make much difference as the wood had a nice sheen to it before I'd even got anywhere near it with oil. Like anything, it has to be built up in coats, between 5 and 10 is ideal. The way I'll be doing the finish is a coat at a time with a very light rubbing with 0000 wire wool between coats to build it up, and this should give a rather nice sheen over the instrument, but not gloss.
[/quote]

No probs, Goblin - it's going to look superb whatever you do with it

[goblin]

I just can't wait to get it back together, but I know time is of the essence for it to be right! All the bits are here and ready to go, the hardest job will probably be getting the preamp back in. Lots of soldering in funny positions to do, but it's all noted and labeled / photographed, so it hopefully won't be too strenuous!

[goblin]

[URL=http://s88.photobucket.com/user/goblin92/media/Basses/4F4D10AF-F25D-4D91-99D7-098C34CA242C_zpsgins0ulr.jpg.html][IMG]http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k195/goblin92/Basses/4F4D10AF-F25D-4D91-99D7-098C34CA242C_zpsgins0ulr.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

So this is how the grain's looking after it's first coat having had 24 hours to dry. Really pleased with progress, it's currently hanging after it's second coat and it's already gaining a nice finish to it. Long way to go but it'll be worth it!

[PlungerModerno]

Oooooooooooooh!

Looking much much better!

[goblin]

Spent a bit more time with it today, had a pretty in depth conversation with Chris from Alpher last night talking all things bass, and giving me some pointers for the finishing process of this one. I've been leaving nearly 24 hours between coats but he reckons I can get two a day in, and he's advised that after a few coats, I start gently using the wire wool with almost no pressure to apply the oil.

Here's the look of things just as I applied the third coat, it's starting to look really good! A trick my old man gave me earlier on after running over with the wire wool is to use a very tiny amount of white spirit on a lint free rag (kitchen roll is doing a wonderful job!) and to just gently clean up every time between coats.

[URL=http://s88.photobucket.com/user/goblin92/media/Basses/B3A40C92-C25E-4581-AAD1-64B124B7521A_zpsvsiu8p6j.jpg.html][IMG]http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k195/goblin92/Basses/B3A40C92-C25E-4581-AAD1-64B124B7521A_zpsvsiu8p6j.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

[URL=http://s88.photobucket.com/user/goblin92/media/Basses/768C75DF-324E-45B6-BD9C-FA4A8905092B_zpshuei3p4o.jpg.html][IMG]http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k195/goblin92/Basses/768C75DF-324E-45B6-BD9C-FA4A8905092B_zpshuei3p4o.jpg[/IMG][/URL]