What counts as original?

[Ghost_Bass]

[quote name='Meddle' timestamp='1455486588' post='2979589']
If the owner is famous then a multitude of sins can be overlooked! I was thinking the other day about Billy Sheehan's "Wife" bass. Undoubtedly some Mr Big/Talas/Vai/Winery Dogs fan would pay top dollar if The Wife ever went on the market. If Billy hadn't made it big and needed to pay the bills then The Wife would probably have an Ebay Weird and Wonderful thread in its own right.

Get this, the owner has hacked in an EB-0 pickup at the end of the neck and wired it to a second output jack, which is mounted on a snapped off black pickguard chunk which is mounted down with washers and drywall screws.


[/quote]

Don't forget the missing strap pin! "Perfectly balanced bass to be played sitting down"

[Rick's Fine '52]

I dont think there is any science to this. In my experience in buying vintage instruments, if its 100% original, then its exactly that. So if there are changed parts, then, if known, they should be declared. Its not always easy to tell with screws etc though, but it depends what you are looking for, or what instrument you are looking at. Prices will reflect originality, and some items affect more than others. Its certainly possible to find original, unmolested 50+ year old instruments with perfectly working components, and these are desirable.

The exception, from my experience, is original factory strings. I've seen a few instruments claiming to have original factory strings, but personally have not seen this add any value, as its almost impossible to prove, and, its highly unlikely too, especially on a worn instrument. Someone else used the 'car tyre' analogy, which i would tend to agree with, although probably easier to prove an original tyre, than original string on something 50+ years old.

If its not a highly collectible instrument, then a changed pot, or bridge, or strap button is unlikely to affect value too much.

[Happy Jack]

[quote name='Meddle' timestamp='1455486588' post='2979589']



[/quote]

What's going on at 16th - 20th frets?

[spongebob]

Both my basses have been re-fretted, one has had replacement pots and a little bit of paintwork resprayed. The other had a neck repair many years ago.

They're both players, not museum pieces. The previous owner(s) have used, gigged, and done whatever with them. As such, certain parts have worn out, and have needed replacing to keep the instrument in working order.

If I was buying another old bass, I'd always go for one that's been played over one that looks like it's been in a case for 40+ years. So long as the repairs have been done with care, that's fine by me.

If not, basses aren't cars - most things can be sorted, and the cost isn't as bad as a vehicle resto!

[Rich]

[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1455643187' post='2981049']
What's going on at 16th - 20th frets?
[/quote]
Scallops. The red painted areas have been carved out.

[Happy Jack]

I love scallops.

Cocquilles St. Jacques ... mmmmmm.

[drTStingray]

[quote name='Rick's Fine '52' timestamp='1455641510' post='2981022']
I dont think there is any science to this. In my experience in buying vintage instruments, if its 100% original, then its exactly that. So if there are changed parts, then, if known, they should be declared. Its not always easy to tell with screws etc though, but it depends what you are looking for, or what instrument you are looking at. Prices will reflect originality, and some items affect more than others. Its certainly possible to find original, unmolested 50+ year old instruments with perfectly working components, and these are desirable.

The exception, from my experience, is original factory strings. I've seen a few instruments claiming to have original factory strings, but personally have not seen this add any value, as its almost impossible to prove, and, its highly unlikely too, especially on a worn instrument. Someone else used the 'car tyre' analogy, which i would tend to agree with, although probably easier to prove an original tyre, than original string on something 50+ years old.

If its not a highly collectible instrument, then a changed pot, or bridge, or strap button is unlikely to affect value too much.
[/quote]

I agree with all of this - also remember that (in the car tyre analogy) rubber perishes over time - I recall having to change 5 yr old rear car tyres for an MOT which were not worn at all but the walls had perished (showing cracks). This type of thing can be true of intruments - I've seen pictures of a pre 57 Precision and also a late 70s Stingray both with totally rusted strings (barely hanging on the instrument) and other parts deteriorated - knowing how old fashioned electrical flex perishes I could see this happening to 60s and earlier instruments.

On this basis I sometimes find it hard to believe the alleged 'totally original' status quoted for some instruments, particularly if they've been played and haven't been stored away or on display in climate controlled conditions. Modern materials are far more durable.

I would prefer to have a completely original instrument but would not turn away, for instance a bass which has had a replacement tuning peg so long as the new one is of the correct period and supplied by the manufacturer. I would not accept a refin unless I was deliberately looking for one, but even a refret or re shot fretless board (provided done professionally and with the correct materials (fret type) wouldn't worry me too much - if I was paying top dollar for a vintage bass I might prefer something more original if available.

In essence, items which are subject to normal wear and tear should be fair game but more extensive mods (eg fret less board when it was built with a maple fretted one), or a different coloured body, would put me off.

That's just my perspective though - others may have completely different views.

Edited February 16, 2016 by drTStingray