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HOW DO I GET AN ULTRA LOW ACTION ON A JAZZ BASS? Help please...


Greg.Bassman
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Hi all.

Ok so, I've been playing my Fender MIM jazz for a while now, and though it sounds great, it's action makes it a nightmare to play. I'm a light player who enjoys funk/disco, where the lines are often busy. To cut the story short... I need the action as low as I can get it!

At the moment, if it's set [i]too [/i]low, I get buzz; subsequently, the action needs to remain higher... obviously, this is no longer acceptable ;)

Some have insisted upon a fret dress; is there any additional factors that I should be considering... Bridge type etc?

Cheers.
P.S - My neck radius is 9.5 (modern C) and the gauge of string I use are 'Regular Lights' (45-65-80-100).

Edited by Greg.Bassman
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So, how low and are there 1 or 2 notes on 1 or 2 strings that are buzzing or all of them?

There are several side issues that could be affecting the action on your bass, like nut height, but if you want to go very low then you're into uneven fret territory, and fret levelling is the first thing to check and fix. Everything else flows from that.

A couple of years ago I had my US Lakland set up with a fret levelling. It played like a million dollars afterwards. I cost me about £80. Worth every penny.

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[quote name='Greg.Bassman' timestamp='1456442822' post='2989206']
Hi all.

Ok so, I've been playing my Fender MIM jazz for a while now, and though it sounds great, it's action makes it a nightmare to play. I'm a light player who enjoys funk/disco, where the lines are often busy. To cut the story short... I need the action as low as I can get it!

At the moment, if it's set [i]too [/i]low, I get buzz; subsequently, the action needs to remain higher... obviously, this is no longer acceptable ;)

Some have insisted upon a fret dress; is there any additional factors that I should be considering... Bridge type etc?

Cheers.
P.S - My neck radius is 9.5 (modern C) and the gauge of string I use are 'Regular Lights' (45-65-80-100).
[/quote]

Obviously the nut, bridge and truss rod must be set right... but you'll never get a low action that sounds good if the frets are not perfectly level. So make sure the frets are just right and the rest is basic geometry. Well, the neck angle also is important, I forgot that. Sometimes a very thin shim in the neck pocket is necessary... but get the other bits right first. Then if you find the bridge saddles are bottomed out and still want more, you'll know it's time for a shim. If that doesn't happen you'll be ok without messing with that.

I'd take it to someone who knows what they're doing: it won't cost much and you'll get it right. It's fun to learn to do it yourself, and a great skill to have, but if you want results fast just take it to a good tech.

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What is the current heights taken at the 12th or 17th fret?
I class myself as someone able to get great setups and as said already above there's a few factors in a good setup then there's a few more in an truly excellent setup. I shall go over some as simply as possible. But really other than the points I mention below there are no additional factors as you asked as long as the bass is capable of being adjusted. Tho I will add in string choice which is another factor.

Ok from the top we look at the nut. It wants to be cut as low as possible without giving what I term as back clank (noise behind the fretted note too the nut). Fret at the third and there should be a cigarette papers distance between the top of the first fret and the string (all strings).

The frets should be level to a high degree some basses even cheap ones can have this from the factory, but in most cases unless you have a bass which has been hand done or plecked then it will need a fret level, re crown and polish etc. You can check this with a fret rocker yourself.

A good general setup so neck relief, string height at the bridge and intonation. Not forgetting the neck angle. Each bass is different.

A lighter touch or heavy gauge strings. Flats are great for a lower action too but not essential.

These combined will give a low action sub 2.4mm however for a very low sub 2mm action further steps are required. The fret board needs to be in very good shape before it's even fretted no weird ski jumps at the end etc it must be close to perfect. And sometimes ether the fret board or frets sometimes need a little almost microscopic drop off near the neck heal (last remains frets) I believe sadowsky is a fan of this this.

If you or any be members are in the north east then I'm happy to do the above work as outlined in the bc members prepared to help other members thread (top of this repairs section).

Some great videos to watch are. First vid is rather long the second and third are short vids.
http://youtu.be/MBSg1_CRfWY

http://youtu.be/_-69eUMYz6Q

http://youtu.be/VuLGpxaArkY

Edited by Twincam
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Thanks for sharing those videos Twincam :)

As others have said, there are lots of factors affecting set up & action height
I would say, do a basic set up yourself, and have a go at putting a thin shim (maybe even just thin card) at the heel end of the neck
If it doesn't work - fine, you have learned that it didn't work on this occasion
but it's cheap & cheerful & quick to do, and you never know, it might just get the height down another half millimetre

If that doesn't work as well as you'd like - try a decent luthier
I'm not sure where you're based, but I'd recommend Dave Dearnaley if you're anywhere near Cardiff
Try a luthier local to you, who other trusted BC'ers recommend

Above all, good luck

BTW. I mainly use heavy gauge strings, it may just be the way it seems to me, but I think my action is set lower with heavy than with standard

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