Removing dings and scratches with a cloth and an iron?

[Dubs]

Damp cloth + hot iron = removal of dings?

I’ve heard many people recommend this as a way of removing light dings and scratches from natural finished instruments but has anyone got any experience with it?

The theory is that you place the damp cloth over the ding or scratch that you’re trying to remove, and then you place a really hot iron on the cloth so the moisture in the cloth is absorbed into the wood and is meant to encourage the ding to swell back up. That’s my understanding of it anyway, but how damp should the cloth be, and how hot should the iron be, and then how long should I leave the iron on the cloth?

I’m thinking of doing this on quite an expensive bass (Streamer Stage II) so does anyone know what the potential dangers of this are and what a likely success:failure ratio is going to be? What’s the worst case scenario? i.e. if it all goes to sh*t, how badly am I going to ruin the bass?

Any comments for and against will be appreciated as I’m in two minds as to whether I’m going to go through with it anyway.

As always, thanks in advance…

[johnnylager]

See lad, if you had a proper bass with laquer n' that, rather than one that wants polished with voodoo butter...

Tried [url="http://www.furnituremedic.co.uk/"]Furniture Medic[/url]?

Edited September 23, 2008 by johnnylager

[Dubs]

[quote name='johnnylager' post='289779' date='Sep 23 2008, 11:32 AM']See lad, if you had a proper bass with laquer n' that, rather than one that wants polished with voodoo butter...[/quote]

…then I’d have to chop it in for a half decent slab of wood

[color="#808080"][size=1](don't mention the football)[/size][/color]

[quote name='johnnylager' post='289779' date='Sep 23 2008, 11:32 AM']Tried [url="http://www.furnituremedic.co.uk/"]Furniture Medic[/url]?[/quote]

Ah very interesting. “Repair of wood surfaces - scratches, dents…”. It would be interesting to learn how they do that, although being a tight arse (as well as having the blind belief that I can do anything ) I want to learn how to do it myself rather than forking out for a ‘pro’ to do it.

This has given me an idea though – I know one of my sister’s good mates is a trained/qualified carpenter. I might see if he has any tips or even if he reckons he could do it for mates rates :brow:

[johnnylager]

[quote name='benwhiteuk' post='289843' date='Sep 23 2008, 12:11 PM'][color="#808080"][size=1](don't mention the football)[/size][/color][/quote]
[color="#808080"][size=1](ever again)[/size][/color]

[andyonbass]

I think the iron method will work on an indentation, but I doubt it would do much for a ding or scratch
It might be worth looking through your local yellow pages for a French polisher, I had one repair a sizeable three cornered ding in a natural bodied bass a while ago, made a really good job of it. If your unsure of what you're doing, it may cost more in the long run to put right. i'd have a go on a cheapo bass, but if you value the instrument it might be the best course.

[Marky L]

Oh!! I can just see a large iron shaped burn happening.

Not something I'd like to do on a qualidee unit mate.

[Dubs]

[quote name='andyonbass' post='290050' date='Sep 23 2008, 03:41 PM']I think the iron method will work on an indentation, but I doubt it would do much for a ding or scratch
It might be worth looking through your local yellow pages for a French polisher, I had one repair a sizeable three cornered ding in a natural bodied bass a while ago, made a really good job of it. If your unsure of what you're doing, it may cost more in the long run to put right. i'd have a go on a cheapo bass, but if you value the instrument it might be the best course.[/quote]

Cheers mate, and good advice re: my amateurness with repairs on expensive instruments

I think I might live with it for a while as in all honesty they’re not too bad and you can’t notice them unless you’re holding the bass…so I think I’m just being a bit picky. I mentioned the French Polisher to my girlfriend and she seems to know what that’s about (cos I don’t :wacko:) so I’ll investigate that as well.

[Dubs]

[quote name='Marky L' post='290071' date='Sep 23 2008, 04:16 PM']Oh!! I can just see a large iron shaped burn happening.

Not something I'd like to do on a qualidee unit mate.[/quote]

Yeah I’m thinking that myself – I could just make it a lot worse :wacko:

[rjb]

[quote name='benwhiteuk' post='290086' date='Sep 23 2008, 04:31 PM']Yeah I’m thinking that myself – I could just make it a lot worse :wacko:[/quote]

If you're worried about the heat then why don't you try smoothing the ding back with some green scotchbrite cloths and re-wax? I refinished the Thumb BO that way.... Won't remove it completely, but it should make it far less obvious..

That's assuming the Streamer has a natural finish.....

[Dubs]

[quote name='rjb' post='290177' date='Sep 23 2008, 05:59 PM']If you're worried about the heat then why don't you try smoothing the ding back with some green scotchbrite cloths and re-wax? I refinished the Thumb BO that way.... Won't remove it completely, but it should make it far less obvious..

That's assuming the Streamer has a natural finish.....[/quote]

It is indeed a natural finish, and the scotchbrite cloth idea sounds like a gooden, cheers Rick. I think that idea should definitely work with a couple of the shallower dings/scratches. I gave it a good wax up this afternoon so depending on how arsed I can be, I’ll probably end up giving it another going over tomorrow with some scotchbrite stuff and see how it goes. My girlfriend thinks I’m being finicky about it though cos realistically it’s not bad at all for a 10 year old bass that’s been regularly used...there's nothing like a smooth natural finish though

[rjb]

[quote name='benwhiteuk' post='290194' date='Sep 23 2008, 06:16 PM']It is indeed a natural finish, and the scotchbrite cloth idea sounds like a gooden, cheers Rick. I think that idea should definitely work with a couple of the shallower dings/scratches. I gave it a good wax up this afternoon so depending on how arsed I can be, I’ll probably end up giving it another going over tomorrow with some scotchbrite stuff and see how it goes. My girlfriend thinks I’m being finicky about it though cos realistically it’s not bad at all for a 10 year old bass that’s been regularly used...there's nothing like a smooth natural finish though [/quote]


It does work well. Here's a pic of your old Thumb after a brush up. I went ahead and did the whole body (only took a couple of hours work). You might find that your refinished bit looks so much fresher than the rest so you might want to consider the same.

If you do decide to re-wax then the way Warwick do it is to apply a melted wax layer to the bare wood before waxing as normal for later layers. I guess this is to help the wax soak into the wood. I picked this tip up from the Warwick forum and it worked perfectly for me.

Edited September 23, 2008 by rjb

[Dubs]

[quote name='rjb' post='290295' date='Sep 23 2008, 08:19 PM']It does work well. Here's a pic of your old Thumb after a brush up. I went ahead and did the whole body (only took a couple of hours work). You might find that your refinished bit looks so much fresher than the rest so you might want to consider the same.

If you do decide to re-wax then the way Warwick do it is to apply a melted wax layer to the bare wood before waxing as normal for later layers. I guess this is to help the wax soak into the wood. I picked this tip up from the Warwick forum and it worked perfectly for me. [/quote]

Ah very nice

So how would one apply a melted layer of wax? :wacko: (this process is being put into practise tomorrow me thinks :brow:)

[Paul Cooke]

[quote name='benwhiteuk' post='290417' date='Sep 23 2008, 10:45 PM']So how would one apply a melted layer of wax?[/quote]

with a brush while it's liquid...

[The Burpster]

[quote name='benwhiteuk' post='289731' date='Sep 23 2008, 10:41 AM']Damp cloth + hot iron = removal of dings?

I’ve heard many people recommend this as a way of removing light dings and scratches from natural finished instruments but has anyone got any experience with it?[/quote]


Yes, I have lots of experience with gunstocks doing exactly that. Damp cloth for a few seconds then while its still steaming put the iron over the area ON A PIECE OF BROWN PAPER. The paper spreads the heat sligthly and if your gonna scorch anything it wil be the paper 1st. It also allows you to use a hotter iron. KEEP the iron moving in small circular motion round the dent with a ligth pressure.

The harder the wood the hotter the iron and more pressure you need. Just finished a Beretta shotgun stock about 2 weeks ago and the owner got top dollar in p/ex for it.........

It can be done with patience.

[Dodge]

Did it many times with my natural SS1's and my cherry Streamer bass, but it'll wreck anything with lacquer or finish on it.

Basically, if it's an impression (i.e. ding, buckle rash) it'll probably come out ok but if there's material missing like a chip or similar it won't help you. I used one of those linen tea towels soaked and rung out in clean water with a steam iron for the larger areas and a soldering iron for localised dings. If the tea towel starts to go brown then it needs soaking again. Linen will protect the wood from burning.

When you're done, leave it to dry out for a fair few hours - the wood will probably shrink back a bit and you'll see if you need to do any more. If it's ok, get your fine grade steel wool out and smooth the area over. Then get your Warwick wax out and get to work!

I do have some pics somewhere of my Streamer bass restoration which I'll try and find if you like.

[rjb]

[quote name='benwhiteuk' post='290417' date='Sep 23 2008, 10:45 PM']Ah very nice

So how would one apply a melted layer of wax? :wacko: (this process is being put into practise tomorrow me thinks :brow:)[/quote]

With a brush as Paul Cooke said, or a decent bit of cloth will also be fine. I used a cloth.

[Dodge]

[quote name='rjb' post='290570' date='Sep 24 2008, 09:07 AM']With a brush as Paul Cooke said, or a decent bit of cloth will also be fine. I used a cloth.[/quote]

Tried a brush and cloth, for me the best results were applying it with my fingers.

[Dubs]

Thanks for the advice everyone . I’m going to head into town in a bit to stock up on supplies (brush, steel wool, brown paper, scotchbrite cloth, and a cheap tea towel – if I use a nice one from the house my girlfriend is likely to kill me ) and then I’ll start work on it this afternoon through to this evening. I’ll probably take some pics of the whole process and update this thread as I go but obviously I’m not looking to rush it at all so it might take a few days to finish the whole job.

Just 1 more question – Any advice on the best (economic and least messy) way to melt a small chunk of Warwick beeswax? I’ve got 2 pots of it – 1 old one that is quite dried up, and another that’s only about 3 months old and nice and fresh, so I’m thinking I’ll chop a bit of wax out of the dry pot and melt this and then tomorrow apply a ‘normal’ (not melted) fresh coat of the newer wax and then buff up as appropriate…is this the way to do it?

[johnnylager]

[quote name='benwhiteuk' post='290685' date='Sep 24 2008, 11:12 AM']...I’m going to head into town in a bit to stock up on supplies (brush, steel wool, brown paper, scotchbrite cloth, and a cheap tea towel...[/quote]
Don't forget to pick up a new Streamer Stage II body, just in case. Best of British lad. OT: Some squad rotation tonight d'ye think? There's a few out [s]on gardening leave[/s] 'injured'.

[Dodge]

[quote name='benwhiteuk' post='290685' date='Sep 24 2008, 11:12 AM']Thanks for the advice everyone . I’m going to head into town in a bit to stock up on supplies (brush, steel wool, brown paper, scotchbrite cloth, and a cheap tea towel – if I use a nice one from the house my girlfriend is likely to kill me ) and then I’ll start work on it this afternoon through to this evening. I’ll probably take some pics of the whole process and update this thread as I go but obviously I’m not looking to rush it at all so it might take a few days to finish the whole job.

Just 1 more question – Any advice on the best (economic and least messy) way to melt a small chunk of Warwick beeswax? I’ve got 2 pots of it – 1 old one that is quite dried up, and another that’s only about 3 months old and nice and fresh, so I’m thinking I’ll chop a bit of wax out of the dry pot and melt this and then tomorrow apply a ‘normal’ (not melted) fresh coat of the newer wax and then buff up as appropriate…is this the way to do it?[/quote]

Take the lid off the wax, put the pot in a saucepan, heat it gently until the wax melts. When you're done, just let it cool down and solidify - no mess! Your old dried up wax will be fine.

Here's the sort of tea towel I use, btw:

[johnnylager]

[quote name='Dodge' post='290695' date='Sep 24 2008, 11:21 AM'][/quote]
Tea towel porn mate, lovely. Look at the weave on that.

Edited September 24, 2008 by johnnylager

[Dodge]

[quote name='johnnylager' post='290701' date='Sep 24 2008, 11:27 AM']Tea towel porn mate, lovely. Look at the weave on that.[/quote]

[Dubs]

[quote name='johnnylager' post='290701' date='Sep 24 2008, 11:27 AM']Tea towel porn mate, lovely. Look at the weave on that.[/quote]



Squad rotation…may as well throw in the towel and play the U17s

[rjb]

[quote name='benwhiteuk' post='290685' date='Sep 24 2008, 11:12 AM']Thanks for the advice everyone . I’m going to head into town in a bit to stock up on supplies (brush, steel wool, brown paper, scotchbrite cloth, and a cheap tea towel – if I use a nice one from the house my girlfriend is likely to kill me ) and then I’ll start work on it this afternoon through to this evening. I’ll probably take some pics of the whole process and update this thread as I go but obviously I’m not looking to rush it at all so it might take a few days to finish the whole job.

Just 1 more question – Any advice on the best (economic and least messy) way to melt a small chunk of Warwick beeswax? I’ve got 2 pots of it – 1 old one that is quite dried up, and another that’s only about 3 months old and nice and fresh, so I’m thinking I’ll chop a bit of wax out of the dry pot and melt this and then tomorrow apply a ‘normal’ (not melted) fresh coat of the newer wax and then buff up as appropriate…is this the way to do it?[/quote]


Sounds okay. The only thing you might find is that the bit you finish looks so much cleaner than the rest of the bass! To solve this just take the bass apart and do the whole body! More work, yes, but the payoff should be better...

Rick

Edited September 24, 2008 by rjb

[Dubs]

[quote name='rjb' post='290767' date='Sep 24 2008, 12:23 PM']Sounds okay. The only thing you might find is that the bit you finish looks so much cleaner than the rest of the bass! To solve this just take the bass apart and do the whole body! More work, yes, but the payoff should be better...

Rick[/quote]

Yeah I’m planning on doing the whole thing…I’ve actually started already – I’m rubbing the wax off with the scotchbrite cloth and a bit of fine wire wool, but should it look like the surface of the wood is scratching ever so slightly? I’m just lightly pushing on the cloths and rubbing down the wax in a circular motion which seems to be working well but it’s leaving very faint scratch marks. Most of these scratch marks come off if I rub them down hard with my thumb or a dense washing sponge, but should it be scratching like this in the first place or will they disappear once I apply the melted layer of wax?

A couple of “Before” pictures;

[attachment=13888:s1.JPG]
[attachment=13889:s2.JPG]
[attachment=13890:s3.JPG]
[attachment=13891:s4.JPG]
[attachment=13892:s5.JPG]
[attachment=13893:s6.JPG]