tips for lacquering a neck

[bigjohn]

Hiya,

I might have a go at getting my project back on this weekend. The first thing I'm doing is fitting (filling holes and drilling new ones for) new tuning heads. After which I shall be applying a new headstock decal, and then lacquering a mighty mite maple p bass neck.

I'm thinking about using some [url="http://www.behlen.co.uk/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=B103-021&Category_Code=AEROS"]behlen[/url] aerosol lacquer.

Anyone got any tips to get an even application with no cat hairs etc?


Should I apply the lacquer and then wire wool it off the frets for instance?


John

Edited September 23, 2008 by bigjohn

[neepheid]

[quote name='bigjohn' post='289742' date='Sep 23 2008, 10:55 AM']Hiya,

I might have a go at getting my project back on this weekend. The first thing I'm doing is fitting (filling holes and drilling new ones for) new tuning heads. After which I shall be applying a new headstock decal, and then lacquering a mighty mite maple p bass neck.

I'm thinking about using some [url="http://www.behlen.co.uk/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=B103-021&Category_Code=AEROS"]behlen[/url] aerosol lacquer.

Anyone got any tips to get an even application with no cat hairs etc?


Should I apply the lacquer and then wire wool it off the frets for instance?


John[/quote]

Do it somewhere where there aren't any cats? I wouldn't recommend doing it in the house anyway - it stinks. Get a good mask (not a simple one you use for sanding, one with an actual filter). Good ventilation.

As for application - it depends. What's the fingerboard made of?

[bigjohn]

it's one piece maple.

Aye, my house has a cat in. A long haired cat too. I'll probably do it out in the carport / garage bit to be honest and lock the critter in.

[BOD2]

I've not done this but I have read about it.

The key seems to be lots of very light coats, allowing time for each coat to dry, and gentle sanding down between coats.

Don't apply a heavy coat of lacquer or it will most likely run, and don't be tempted to rush the job and put the next coat on before the first has dried sufficiently.

I think you might also have to buff the final coats down to get a smooth finish.

[Mr. Foxen]

Lacquer the cat first, this will not only prevent shedding, but also give you a challenging practice run. Leave it in a cool place to harden, as the cat will be attracted to a warm place.

[bigjohn]

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='289956' date='Sep 23 2008, 01:44 PM']Lacquer the cat first, this will not only prevent shedding, but also give you a challenging practice run. Leave it in a cool place to harden, as the cat will be attracted to a warm place.[/quote]


Genius.

Beats finding a taxidermist.

[BigBeefChief]

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='289956' date='Sep 23 2008, 01:44 PM']Lacquer the cat first[/quote]


Aye, we all enjoy a smooth pussy.












Too far?

[andyonbass]

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='289956' date='Sep 23 2008, 01:44 PM']Lacquer the cat first, this will not only prevent shedding, but also give you a challenging practice run. Leave it in a cool place to harden, as the cat will be attracted to a warm place.[/quote]

It'll probably kill him, but he'll have a lovely finish

[Jean-Luc Pickguard]

lacquering the cat seems a bit drastic to me. Shave him instead.

[Tait]

[quote name='BOD2' post='289900' date='Sep 23 2008, 12:56 PM']I've not done this but I have read about it.

The key seems to be lots of very light coats, allowing time for each coat to dry, and gentle sanding down between coats.

Don't apply a heavy coat of lacquer or it will most likely run, and don't be tempted to rush the job and put the next coat on before the first has dried sufficiently.

I think you might also have to buff the final coats down to get a smooth finish.[/quote]

this is pretty much what i did on my 5 day course with jon shuker. you really do have to sit and wait, as i quote from my own post in my thread about the 5 day course...

[quote name='lwtait' post='164686' date='Mar 27 2008, 07:36 PM']there was nothing much we could do whilst we were lacquering - we started cutting the nut, switched the blend on the seymour duncan tone circuit to a 3 way switch and sanded the edges of the scratchplate, small jobs like that, but mostly just played with ruby (jons dog) whilst we waited to put on the next coat. the neck's feeling lovely now[/quote]

i hope that shows that you'll be really pleased with the neck if you have a little patience.

and definatly not in the house, that stuff stinks! its a disgusting job, i absolutely hated it! jon had sort of a gas mask to put on, you probably wont need something this... errr... cant really think of a word for what i mean... extreme? you know what i mean anyway, but what im trying to say is a simple mask like you wear for sanding isn't great. and you really do want a well ventalated space away from where anyone is, lacquer is pretty nasty stuff!

can i just ask, why wire wool it off the frets? do you want a finished fingerboard? if not just slap masking tape all down the fretboard! i did a rosewood fingerboard, do you not lacquer rosewood but lacquer maple or something?

EDIT just to reorder my post to make more sense.

Edited September 26, 2008 by lwtait

[Mikey R]

[quote name='bigjohn' post='289742' date='Sep 23 2008, 10:55 AM']I'm thinking about using some [url="http://www.behlen.co.uk/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=B103-021&Category_Code=AEROS"]behlen[/url] aerosol lacquer.[/quote]

Youre in trouble - it says on the website "Pre-Cat Lacquer Satin - 369g" - you wont be able to use it on the mog

Just out of interest, did you consider a water based brush on laquer, like [url="http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Chestnut-Acrylic-Lacquer-19769.htm"]http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Chestnu...cquer-19769.htm[/url]

Ive also been eyeing up this [url="http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Polyvine-Wax-Finish-Varnish-715653.htm"]http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Polyvin...nish-715653.htm[/url] - will have to give it a try on some scrap

[skelf]

If you are use a pre-cat lacquer you must wear a suitable mask one suit to organic vapours. It has numerous carcinogenic compounds in it while spraying and drying.

[Muppet]

I've done this a few times. MM P bass necks are already sealed and briefly lacquered although they don't look like it. I mask off the entire fretboard and concentrate on the back of the neck and the headstock, unless you are going for a different tint of lacquer. Always wear a mask.

The headstock finish is ok to apply a decal straight on to. When you do this, allow the decal to dry OVERNIGHT and VERY LIGHTLY dust the headstock with lacquer the next day. Then wait a few hours and dust again. Too much lacquer at this stage will pickle the decal and you'll have to start again.

Then you can apply light coats to both the neck and the headstock. I usually suspend the neck by a wire coathanger from the ceiling of my garage. Wait plenty of time between coats - hours or even a full day if you can. I apply at least six coats if not more. If you ever apply a coat and it looks wet, then you've applied to much and it might run. If it runs, your only course of action is to wait until it dries and sand it out.

Once you have applied your final coat, wait. A week. Two if you can. This is because although lacquer appears dry, it is still soft under the outer coat and needs time to cure.

When it's cured, time to get out the wire wool and very fine wet and dry paper and sand down the neck LIGHTLY till it is smooth but be careful on the headstock that you don't rub all the way down to the new decal. This will produce a matt finish, which is OK. If you want it shiny then some car polish or t cut carefully applied will bring it up a treat. I actually use Autosol, though quite sparingly. Remember that the layer under the one you are smoothing out will be softer, so go carefully.

[bigjohn]

[quote name='skelf' post='294778' date='Sep 29 2008, 06:19 PM']If you are use a pre-cat lacquer you must wear a suitable mask one suit to organic vapours. It has numerous carcinogenic compounds in it while spraying and drying.[/quote]

will do!


[quote name='Muppet' post='294807' date='Sep 29 2008, 07:06 PM']I've done this a few times. MM P bass necks are already sealed and briefly lacquered although they don't look like it. I mask off the entire fretboard and concentrate on the back of the neck and the headstock, unless you are going for a different tint of lacquer. Always wear a mask.

The headstock finish is ok to apply a decal straight on to. When you do this, allow the decal to dry OVERNIGHT and VERY LIGHTLY dust the headstock with lacquer the next day. Then wait a few hours and dust again. Too much lacquer at this stage will pickle the decal and you'll have to start again.

Then you can apply light coats to both the neck and the headstock. I usually suspend the neck by a wire coathanger from the ceiling of my garage. Wait plenty of time between coats - hours or even a full day if you can. I apply at least six coats if not more. If you ever apply a coat and it looks wet, then you've applied to much and it might run. If it runs, your only course of action is to wait until it dries and sand it out.

Once you have applied your final coat, wait. A week. Two if you can. This is because although lacquer appears dry, it is still soft under the outer coat and needs time to cure.

When it's cured, time to get out the wire wool and very fine wet and dry paper and sand down the neck LIGHTLY till it is smooth but be careful on the headstock that you don't rub all the way down to the new decal. This will produce a matt finish, which is OK. If you want it shiny then some car polish or t cut carefully applied will bring it up a treat. I actually use Autosol, though quite sparingly. Remember that the layer under the one you are smoothing out will be softer, so go carefully.[/quote]


I'm after a satin finish - and I'm not sure how much of the lacquer I've removed whilst sadning out dings and dirt - it was 2nd hand. Great advice about the coathanger though... My garage will be good for it I reckon - it's got a door at either end so I should get some good ventillation.


[quote name='Mikey R' post='294767' date='Sep 29 2008, 06:09 PM']Youre in trouble - it says on the website "Pre-Cat Lacquer Satin - 369g" - you wont be able to use it on the mog

Just out of interest, did you consider a water based brush on laquer, like [url="http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Chestnut-Acrylic-Lacquer-19769.htm"]http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Chestnu...cquer-19769.htm[/url]

Ive also been eyeing up this [url="http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Polyvine-Wax-Finish-Varnish-715653.htm"]http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Polyvin...nish-715653.htm[/url] - will have to give it a try on some scrap[/quote]


Should work well on sabre-tooth tigers then?


Not really considered a brush on - thought I'd get a finish with an aerosol...

Edited October 14, 2008 by bigjohn