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Barefaced handle, anybody replaced?


karlfer
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I'm suddenly in a position where I need to put a spending freeze on, but I do need to spend on one thing!

I need to replace the handles (1 in particular) on my Barefaced Supertwin.
Now understand, I make Frank Spencer look handy in Destroy It Yourself.
Link shows instructions (scroll way down).
http://barefacedbass.com/product-range/T-shirtsandspares.htm

Anybody done this? Tips? I'd hate to lose my nuts :blink: and I know if I end up taking it apart it will never work again :blush: .

Thanks in advance collective :)

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[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1457625646' post='3000351']
This is a joke... right?
[/quote]

Erm, no, a request for any experience, tips.
I'm old with knackered eyesight and arthritic fingers hence the question.

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[quote name='karlfer' timestamp='1457626326' post='3000365']
Erm, no, a request for any experience, tips.
I'm old with knackered eyesight and arthritic fingers hence the question.
[/quote]

Ah, sorry. I guess you aren't up to speed on the Barefaced/handle debacle.

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[quote name='karlfer' timestamp='1457624857' post='3000331']...Tips?...
[/quote]

Good evening, Karl...

Having read through the instructions you've linked, it seems very straightforward to me as a founding member of the Old, Arthritic Clumsy Oaf club, and I wouldn't hesitate in doing this myself, with the proviso that one heeds the [size=5]Very First Line[/size] of said instructions. The key is to unscrew the bolt without pushing downwards on the screw, as this would entail possibly pushing the fixed, captive nut that's inside out of its lodging. It would then drop inside, lost forever. Unscrew those bolts with just the minimum pressure needed to keep the screwdriver in the head of the bolt, ensuring that the bolt rises as you turn it. If the bolt does not rise, stop at once before losing the nut inside and get the experts in. Once the head has risen, even slightly, it can help, too, to use a pair of long-nosed pliers under the head; not to grip tightly, but just to be able to ease the head up as it's being unscrewed.
It may help (but complicates things..!) to turn the cab upside down, and work underneath, so that gravity helps the bolt to come out.
Hope this doesn't frighten you too much, and wishing every success in your endeavour.
Are there no friendly DIY neighbours or family that could advise or help..?

Edited by Dad3353
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Reading through the instructions, they've used T nuts on the inside of the cab.

The T nut has prongs on it that bite into the wood as you tighten the bolt into it...




All you have to watch out for is that you don't push down on the screw as you turn it - do that and the nut will disattach itself from the wood inside and then you'll have to remove the speaker to get it back.

Seriously, it's so easy that even a Mod could do it... ;)

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[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1457629835' post='3000422']
Call Alex and explain.
[/quote]

Thanks but I'm a big enough muppet without public confession. Oh, wait........

[quote name='BassBunny' timestamp='1457631913' post='3000457']
If you find yourself South Manchester way, I'll sort it for you Karl.
[/quote]

That's really kind Mr Bunny, you and MB1. Top Basschat chaps!

[quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1457631920' post='3000459']
Good evening, Karl...

Having read through the instructions you've linked, it seems very straightforward to me as a founding member of the Old, Arthritic Clumsy Oaf club, and I wouldn't hesitate in doing this myself, with the proviso that one heeds the [size=5]Very First Line[/size] of said instructions. The key is to unscrew the bolt without pushing downwards on the screw, as this would entail possibly pushing the fixed, captive nut that's inside out of its lodging. It would then drop inside, lost forever. Unscrew those bolts with just the minimum pressure needed to keep the screwdriver in the head of the bolt, ensuring that the bolt rises as you turn it. If the bolt does not rise, stop at once before losing the nut inside and get the experts in. Once the head has risen, even slightly, it can help, too, to use a pair of long-nosed pliers under the head; not to grip tightly, but just to be able to ease the head up as it's being unscrewed.
It may help (but complicates things..!) to turn the cab upside down, and work underneath, so that gravity helps the bolt to come out.
Hope this doesn't frighten you too much, and wishing every success in your endeavour.
Are there no friendly DIY neighbours or family that could advise or help..?
[/quote]

Excellent Dad, I understand that MUCH BETTER!!!

[quote name='icastle' timestamp='1457631936' post='3000460']
Reading through the instructions, they've used T nuts on the inside of the cab.

The T nut has prongs on it that bite into the wood as you tighten the bolt into it...




All you have to watch out for is that you don't push down on the screw as you turn it - do that and the nut will disattach itself from the wood inside and then you'll have to remove the speaker to get it back.

Seriously, it's so easy that even a Mod could do it... ;)
[/quote]

Ian, legend, now I can visualise I can figure :)

THANKS LADS, top work! :D

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[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1457642729' post='3000625']
After a fixed period of time, they are ejected from the cab. Like the snow. The cabs that keep getting lighter.
[/quote]

Ah..! Innovation time..! Just before sealing up the cab, how about leaving inside it a cubic centimetre of solidified helium (very low temperature required, I know, but read on...). Once hermetically sealed, the ambient temperature would cause the block of helium to melt, then evaporate, thus filling the cab with helium gas..! For a lighter still build, just double up on the helium blocks..! Then the cabs would truly become lighter, no..? No, no, don't thank me; it's enough reward to think that I've helped so many deserving folks. Well, OK then, but only small monetary donations, please; by Paypal 'gift'. Cheers. :mellow:

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[quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1457644217' post='3000656']
Ah..! Innovation time..! Just before sealing up the cab, how about leaving inside it a cubic centimetre of solidified helium (very low temperature required, I know, but read on...). Once hermetically sealed, the ambient temperature would cause the block of helium to melt, then evaporate, thus filling the cab with helium gas..! For a lighter still build, just double up on the helium blocks..! Then the cabs would truly become lighter, no..? No, no, don't thank me; it's enough reward to think that I've helped so many deserving folks. Well, OK then, but only small monetary donations, please; by Paypal 'gift'. Cheers. :mellow:
[/quote]

But if it's hermetically sealed won't the helium turning to gas blow the cone out? Mid you I guess that would still make it lighter. Attaching helium balloons (available from all good street vendors) might be a better alternative. Just remember not to tie the balloons to the handles!

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