Nut height/compensation and intonation

[linear]

Does anybody do anything to the nut during setup to try and compensate for poor intonation at the lower frets? I found a bit about by googling, but I can't figure out if it's a common practice or a fool's errand.

[Grangur]

I do. I like the nut to be a bit lower then the instructions tell you in the Warwick guide. But with a Warwick you can at least raise the nut again if you go too far; which is a nice touch.

My motivator in the adjustment isn't so much intonation, but more making it easier to fret.... be in a whimp as I no doubt am

[HowieBass]

AFAIK if the nut slots are at the right depth/strings at the right height then there shouldn't be any problems with intonation at the frets closest the nut. However, from what I've read and from my own experience, new basses often need the nut slots deepening (which is why intonation is often poor at the first few frets).

[linear]

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1458318071' post='3006613']
AFAIK if the nut slots are at the right depth/strings at the right height then there shouldn't be any problems with intonation at the frets closest the nut.[/quote]

This makes a lot of sense, thanks.

[Manton Customs]

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1458318071' post='3006613']
AFAIK if the nut slots are at the right depth/strings at the right height then there shouldn't be any problems with intonation at the frets closest the nut. However, from what I've read and from my own experience, new basses often need the nut slots deepening (which is why intonation is often poor at the first few frets).
[/quote]

Generally this is true, there shouldn't be any huge intonation issues and if you're having very noticeably off sounding notes around here, then your nut slots are too high.

However, intonation will still be worse around these first few frets on a perfectly setup instrument (it's more noticeable on a guitar), this is just something which comes with regular straight frets (which are a compromise). There are a couple of solutions for the people who can hear those small inaccuracies. One is the compensated nuts mentioned above. These work well, but their effect does not extend much past the first fret, despite what the manufactures claim.

The other solution to the problem, is the True Temperament system, where the frets are no longer straight but plotted out to ensure perfect intonation at every fret and string. The system does does not require a compensated nut, but you'll notice how "wiggly" the first fret is, that's to deal with the first fret intonation issues. I've built a couple of these TT instruments (see sig for one) and they really do work! The difference is noticeable even if you have never noticed the small inaccuracies of straight frets, but as to whether it's necessary would depend on the individual. For example they are ideal for people with perfect pitch and/or people who play with instruments which are true tempered (piano, organ etc).

Generally though, no, when I craft a nut for a regular bass I do not include any compensation unless a compensated nut is spec'd. A regular well adjusted nut should be fine for all but the most accurate of ears!

Edited March 19, 2016 by Manton Customs

[rmorris]

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1458318071' post='3006613']
AFAIK if the nut slots are at the right depth/strings at the right height then there shouldn't be any problems with intonation at the frets closest the nut. However, from what I've read and from my own experience, new basses often need the nut slots deepening (which is why intonation is often poor at the first few frets).
[/quote]

One other thing to consider is that a nut that is in line with the frets does increase the chance of a "back rattle" where there is fret buzz between the fretted fret and the nut. You might argue that the string shouldn't be moving behind the fretted note but some energy is always likely to get past the fretted note. Nothing special about it being a nut itself. It could equally be a zero fret. And same consideration applies if you are holding down the string somewhere between the fretted note and the nut - only then the string length will be shorter and less likely to buzz. So you might choose to make the nut a tiny bit higher than the frets - or it might not bother you at all. I really don't like fret buzz :-)

[iiipopes]

Yes, occasionally a nut does need compensation for a variety of reasons: 1) misplaced at factory due to tolerances in the gang saw; 2) the play likes higher action or likes to "dig in" more, and nut slot height is one way to prevent fret clack; 2) very light strings that tend to pull irrespective of how the action is set; 3) or a host of other reasons.

I have nut shims on my custom half-fanned fret P/J, about which there is a thread somewhere on the forum. I use Stephen Delft - style nut shims to correct the intonation at the nut:

http://www.mimf.com/nutcomp/