Flappy E string on Squier CV Precision

[olliedf89]

Yeah I'll start a topic in there at the weekend if I don't manage a solution.

I did do that yeah and it did reduce the problem, though not all of it. It did give me very high action then which isn't really what I'm after, but I'm still playing about with the setup. Just seems strange that I can do whatever I want to the other strings, it's just the E that is rebelling! I'm gonna have to stick some tape over the pup I think!

[mcnach]

[quote name='olliedf89' timestamp='1461225935' post='3032544']
Yeah I'll start a topic in there at the weekend if I don't manage a solution.

I did do that yeah and it did reduce the problem, though not all of it. It did give me very high action then which isn't really what I'm after, but I'm still playing about with the setup. Just seems strange that I can do whatever I want to the other strings, it's just the E that is rebelling! I'm gonna have to stick some tape over the pup I think!
[/quote]

the problem is not the pickup. That 'clack' is not the pickup. Seriously, take it to *real* tech for it to be sorted. You'll love the result and wonder why it took you so long to do that.

[luckydog]

There is an inevitable tradeoff for low action versus how hard the strings can be played without fouling. Usually it's the fretboard that fouls, as it seems to be in this case from the video and audio I think ? It really doesn't look like the PU that fouls ?

If one is going to play hard for tone/punch, as I do for example and you do too, I find a high action works and sounds far better....... makes it physical for left hand but a bit of that is not a bad thing IMO, and at least you know you're playing it !

I suspect that if you got it set up, either the problem would persist or it would come back with a higher action and no problem. Bridge height adjustment really should do it for you, but at penalty of raising the action. I'm so used to it by now that it seems natural. The clearance at the 12th fret on the E string I have is 5.5mm from centre of the string to top of fret, for 110 gauge.

HTH!

LD

[cheddatom]

it does sound like the action is too low on the E string

[fleabag]

[quote name='luckydog' timestamp='1461228652' post='3032578']
There is an inevitable tradeoff for low action versus how hard the strings can be played without fouling.
[/quote]

https://www.dropbox.com/s/03w4ne7xjgso8kz/VIDEO0044.mp4?dl=0

Have to agree with the dog here. Looking at the vid above, you are really pounding that E string and the E is the worst of the 4 for the problems you are experiencing.

You are going to have to raise the action, or play that E with a lighter touch. It definately sounds like fretboard / fret clatter

[spyder]

Where are you located please?

[olliedf89]

Thanks for the replies again everyone. I understand what you're saying but I don't feel it's the clatter that's bothering me... I feel the whole e string plays differently...maybe I'm not explaining myself or I'm not sure what you mean, ha! I think I'd better go find a tech.

Spyder, I'm in Worthing near Brighton.

[spyder]

I'm in Sandhurst.
You are welcome to come over and I will help you set it up.

[cheddatom]

On the video it sounds like the E string is "choking" and the only times I've had this problem have been because the action is too low, or the tuning too low for the string gauge.

[olliedf89]

[quote name='spyder' timestamp='1461235945' post='3032686']
I'm in Sandhurst.
You are welcome to come over and I will help you set it up.
[/quote]

That's very kind of you spyder, thank you, if I get the opportunity and the time to do so I shall drop you a DM. Thank you!

Cheddaton, yes, choking is exactly how I'd describe it! I'll be lavishing some attention to her this weekend, otherwise ilk have to wait till payday and do it properly.

[cheddatom]

It could be too low at the nut so check that as well as the bridge

[discreet]

[quote name='fleabag' timestamp='1461233059' post='3032637']
You are going to have to raise the action, or play that E with a lighter touch.
[/quote]

+1. Sounds like your action is too low. Try raising the action of all the strings together, not just the E, until the E-string problem disappears. Then see if you can live with the action at that height. The current trend for a super-low action is balls, imho. I play quite hard too, especially live, and I need to have my action quite high. This has the advantage of eliminating fret buzz, rattle, clanking, choking etc and also lets the strings vibrate properly, so you get vastly improved tone, too.

If the action is too high for you at the point where the problem disappears, try lowering it very gradually and backing off a little on your right hand until you reach an acceptable compromise.

Edited April 22, 2016 by discreet

[olliedf89]

I've tried adjusting the action at the bridge, like you said discreet, the problem is less (but not gone) but now the action is so high I struggle to play, doesn't sound too good either.
Tried lowering the action again to find a compromise but haven't really found one that doesn't bring back the problem.

Strange as I have nice sloppy action on my other P bass which I play just as hard and it's never been a problem.

Getting paid this week and I'll acquire some new strings and find a decent local tech via here and report back.
Thanks again, everyone.

[mcnach]

[quote name='olliedf89' timestamp='1461605774' post='3036101']
I've tried adjusting the action at the bridge, like you said discreet, the problem is less (but not gone) but now the action is so high I struggle to play, doesn't sound too good either.
Tried lowering the action again to find a compromise but haven't really found one that doesn't bring back the problem.

Strange as I have nice sloppy action on my other P bass which I play just as hard and it's never been a problem.

Getting paid this week and I'll acquire some new strings and find a decent local tech via here and report back.
Thanks again, everyone.
[/quote]

it's not simply the bridge saddles and nut heights, it's also the neck curvature and often neck angle (adjustable crudely but effectively by inserting thin shims in the neck pocket)... all these factors contribute together to having nice even low action, if the frets are level. A decent tech can sort out all those pretty easily and won't cost much.
I struggled with a guitar, years ago, for way too long thinking a trip to a guitar tech would be too expensive... and I kicked myself for not having done it earlier, as the guitar came back and it was amazing to play. Yes, we have to learn to do these things ourselves, but it does take time to be proficient enough to do a good job, so don't feel bad for using "external help". Hopefully it's a friendly tech who can talk to you about what he did and why etc and you can pick up a few pointers for next time

[discreet]

Mmm yes, if the action is too high for you and you're still getting the problem then a tech would probably be the next step.

[Twincam]

Here is an easy way to set up a bass, with household tools that should give you a very playable bass and a pretty standard setup.
Tools need are a 4mm or 3/16 Allen key for the truss rod, a 2.5 mm allen key and a 2mm allen key. Also a small allen key or small flat head screwdriver for the bridge saddle adjustment. Finally a standard business card like the ones from a taxi company not a plastic credit card etc they are too thick.

Of course if you can invest in the correct tools but this method is fine for getting a bass in playing condition, for someone with limited tools.

First tune your bass normally then fret at the first fret and then with your elbow of your right arm hold down the e string at about the 17th fret. This is so you can check the relief of the neck, place the business card corner first in between the 7th fret of the E string while its still held down at the first and last fret. It should slide in nicely if it doesn't fit in as the gap is too small then the neck is too straight and needs more relief, if it fits in but there is also a gap the neck has too much relief (too bent). the card should just fit in there nicely maybe a very slight drag.
Business cards tend to be around .010 - .015" in size which is around about the average in most factory specs for relief. If you tighten the truss rod turning it right it will make the gap smaller, left for increasing the gap. This is of course while your looking at the nut right on if your holding the bass tightening looks like your going left and vice versa!. Assuming the truss rod access is in the headstock.
Ok so turn the allen key small turns at a time, then check the relief as above, remember each time you tighten or loosen the truss rod you must put the A string back and re tune all the strings so you get an accurate reading of the relief. Its time consumming and can sometimes be a pain in the bum but has to be done right.

Once you have the relief set, then we adjust the bridge saddle to alter the final string action (height).

There are a two different areas to measure the string height at the 12th and 17th fret i suggest if you play hard we go for the measurements at the 12th if you play lighter the 17th fret. There is also of course the fact nearly everyone likes a different string height but, 2.5mm - 2mm is about standard. To measure the height get your 2.5mm allen key and i will assume you have chosen to measure from the 12th fret. and without fretting the string measure the height of the E string from top of the fret to the bottom, and adjust at the bridge saddle so again the allen key slides nicely in and out with very slight drag. Make sure the bridge saddle is level it does not need to be angled, also while taking measurements make sure the bass is in relativly the same position you play, as necks move slights amounts at different angles. Ok So once the E is at 2.5mm you can set the A, D and G in this way the final G string should be 2mm. So maybe E and A could be 2.5mm and D and G 2mm in height from the top if the 12th fret to the bottom of the string.
And again after every single small movement of the strings you make at the bridge every time before the height is rechecked it need to be put back into tune.

The bass other than now needing to be intonated should be in very reasonable playing condition. If you dont have a 2.5mm allen key a 3/32" one gives you about 2.4mm. Feel free to set the string height higher or lower, but using allen keys or even drill bits do a good job of measurements. 4mm is the heights action that could be considered playable, under 2mm is low but the lower you go the more buzzing you might get if you hit the strings hard.

Buzzing from frets 1 to 7 indicate too little relief, buzzing in the higher frets indicate to low an action, buzzing all over might indicate just that your playing too hard for the setup.

Then you would set intonation, and recheck the string heights (adjust if needed) if the intonation was well off it will change string height on adjusting. Sometimes you have to go back and forth a bit, setting the action and intonation.

The pickup heights can vary I personally like pickups around 3mm to 4mm away from the bottom of the E string.
If you fret at the last fret and pluck as hard as you can the string should not hit the pickup nor should there be phasing.
Pickup heights are vary personal personal this way you will get no issues but maybe not the hottest output.

I could write a full on essay about various other set up problems and remedies. Watch setup videos, read my little guide and hopefully it will all make sense. Hope what ive written helps.