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High fret buzzing - what am I letting myself in for?


TPTroll
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Hi

I'm looking at purchasing an old bass, and it's got one issue I wanted some advice on. The seller says it's difficult to play at the high frets due to buzzing/catching, despite the neck having a bit of a bow to it.

I'm not able to try it out, as it's overseas. They say that the truss rod works, and frets are evenly worn.

Now, I assume that what may have happened is someone was trying to go too low with the string height and they've tried to change the neck relief to compensate for this. This could all be solved with a new nut, possibly a neck shim and a proper set up. Would that be a correct assumption? What I'm trying to avoid is buying something with a busted truss rod or neck.

Thanks!

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If the neck has a forward bow then that will move the strings closer to the frets at the top end of the neck. Straightening the neck might solve the problem, or it might need a fret job or some other set-up work doing to it. Impossible to say really without seeing it.
If they say the truss rod works then you have two options - trust what the seller says or walk away.

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If he says high frets and old then you can bet it needs a proper going over rather than your normal regular setup.
Ask if the truss rod works if so then everything else is easier to work on.

There is a list of bc members based on location at the top of this repairs section, that might be able to help you out for much less than a shop.

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[quote name='Moos3h' timestamp='1460057788' post='3022277']
Buy yourself a Wudtone UTFL and a HB Deko to practise on...so satisfying being able to sort out fret problems yourself and it's as close to foolproof as its possible to get.
[/quote]

I agree about learning yourself but it takes a lot of practice and I've had some horrors brought to me that people have had a go at or even supposed luthier/techs have "fixed"
I wouldn't say anyone can do fret work never mind the higher standards of work and setup.

If your going to though definitely get practice in with cheap basses first!

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That's what I meant - don't dive straight in and practise on something first but it's the only way you'll ever get good at it.

I've done about 12 guitars with my Wudtone UTFL (unless my wife asks...) and the first took some extra work to finish off but I'm so happy with it now :)

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Right, ok, turned my attention away from that one as it sounded too confusing.

But, then I found this bass with another neck issue. Neck bowed, but truss rod at max. Truss rod replacement, or just putting a new washer in at the nut?


Edited by TPTroll
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If you're not too sure about working on a bass, IMHO you'd do well to keep clear of basses with neck problems.

What's your situation? Do you have a bass already? Are you trying to find a cheap bass? Or are you looking for something to do work on?

If you're looking for a low cost, good first bass, that's something different that we can maybe help you with.

Edited by Grangur
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[quote name='TPTroll' timestamp='1460136473' post='3023029']
Right, ok, turned my attention away from that one as it sounded too confusing.

But, then I found this bass with another neck issue. Neck bowed, but truss rod at max. Truss rod replacement, or just putting a new washer in at the nut?



[/quote]

That neck isn't bowed and on the second pic when I put a stright edge on the neck, not scientific but it looks like back bow which makes sense if the necks cranked.

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[quote name='gjones' timestamp='1460154103' post='3023236']
Frankly the action on that bass looks fine to me. If you wanted it lower you could shim it I suppose. But I'm not a huge fan of an action so low that the strings look like they're painted on the neck.
[/quote]
This.
I get the idea that the OP could do with some quality time with another local BCer. But we don't know where he's located.

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[quote name='TPTroll' timestamp='1460136473' post='3023029']
Right, ok, turned my attention away from that one as it sounded too confusing.

But, then I found this bass with another neck issue. Neck bowed, but truss rod at max. Truss rod replacement, or just putting a new washer in at the nut?



[/quote]

Looking carefully at the lower picture I get the impression of an 'S' shape going on here.

To me, there is almost a back bow at the first 2 or 3 frets nearest the nut, then there seems to be a fall away from approx. the 6th fret before starting back upwards at approx. the 12th-13th fret.

I'd leave that one well alone as I suspect you'd never find a suitable action on it.

Tightening the truss rod would amplify the 'S' and loosening would probably result in a fairly pronounced bow.

G.

Edited by geoffbyrne
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If it's the Fernandes p bass on ebay. I have one which has a similar problem. Mine had a ski jump and would only take low tension flats. After several attempts to sort the neck out (washers ,heating neck etc ) I just bought a used neck on ebay. Its a pity because the original neck is one of best necks I have played

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[quote name='Fitzy73' timestamp='1460213280' post='3023718']
If it's the Fernandes p bass on ebay. I have one which has a similar problem. Mine had a ski jump and would only take low tension flats. After several attempts to sort the neck out (washers ,heating neck etc ) I just bought a used neck on ebay. Its a pity because the original neck is one of best necks I have played
[/quote]

Ski jumps can't be fixed so easy. You have two options, level the frets and create a drop off in the last frets and/or frets off and level the board. Both of these I've done with great success.
Washers, shims etc won't work and heating the neck for a ski jump is not a method I've heard off.

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[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1460248600' post='3024082']


Ski jumps can't be fixed so easy. You have two options, level the frets and create a drop off in the last frets and/or frets off and level the board. Both of these I've done with great success.
Washers, shims etc won't work and heating the neck for a ski jump is not a method I've heard off.
[/quote]

It all depends on the severity of the situation and how much fret material you've got to work with. If it's possible to level the frets or create a fall away without losing too much material then great. But for a neck with a severe ski jump and/or not much material left the solution is to remove frets, level the board then refret. Which can be a pain!

So it can be an easy fix or it can be rather annoying. And yes, washers won't effect a ski jump but are a very common fix for a common problem mentioned earlier. Heat would not be wise either!

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[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1460248600' post='3024082']


Ski jumps can't be fixed so easy. You have two options, level the frets and create a drop off in the last frets and/or frets off and level the board. Both of these I've done with great success.
Washers, shims etc won't work and heating the neck for a ski jump is not a method I've heard off.
[/quote]

I used heat and clamp method to try and fix the neck bow. For the ski jump I removed the last few frets etc

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[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1460147392' post='3023159']
If you're not too sure about working on a bass, IMHO you'd do well to keep clear of basses with neck problems.

What's your situation? Do you have a bass already? Are you trying to find a cheap bass? Or are you looking for something to do work on?

If you're looking for a low cost, good first bass, that's something different that we can maybe help you with.
[/quote]

+1
Good questions.
There's really no need to land yourself with a problematic neck which may take time & money unless you're especially interested in the mechanics and workmanship of it.
If it's playing that's more important - get a problem free bass and go with that.
You can always pick up another 'challenging' bass for the technical set up stuff. Beware the 'proper' tools don't come cheap !!!

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[quote name='Manton Customs' timestamp='1460289778' post='3024354']


It all depends on the severity of the situation and how much fret material you've got to work with. If it's possible to level the frets or create a fall away without losing too much material then great. But for a neck with a severe ski jump and/or not much material left the solution is to remove frets, level the board then refret. Which can be a pain!

So it can be an easy fix or it can be rather annoying. And yes, washers won't effect a ski jump but are a very common fix for a common problem mentioned earlier. Heat would not be wise either!
[/quote]

That's what I said.

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