Help with bass set up

[SH73]

I have set up my basses previously following this principle.
1. Neck/ trust rod depending what strings I used
2. Action
3. Intonation
I always set the action by feel that seems to work for me.
Is there a more effective way to set up a bass? Any gauge measuring device I could use for action setting?

Any constructive advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
P

[NoirBass]

That sounds right to me.

Watch this series of vids by John Curruthers, It explains the full process.

[url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=te44eWXd9pc"]https://www.youtube....h?v=te44eWXd9pc[/url]

Edited April 26, 2016 by NoirBass

[gary mac]

I use one of these, money well spent.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Guitar-String-Action-Ruler-Gauge-Guitar-Luthier-Tool-TO36-/131787781521?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368

[Manton Customs]

There are a few useful tools such as the action ruler above, there are also feeler gauges and calipers, all can be useful and worth having for various "tech stuff". However, I think you're approaching setup in the right way by setting the bass up correctly for your personal playing style and the bass itself. Everyone has their preference and the guidelines figures you may have read are just that...guidelines. They are going to change if any of the variables change, such as fret wear (or improper leveling in the first place) string gauge and playing style. So, don't sweat the numbers, if you're setting them up for yourself and they feel good to you, then good job...I'd call that efficient .

Edited April 26, 2016 by Manton Customs

[SH73]

[quote name='NoirBass' timestamp='1461657322' post='3036424']
That sounds right to me.

Watch this series of vids by John Curruthers, It explains the full process.



[url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=te44eWXd9pc"]https://www.youtube....h?v=te44eWXd9pc[/url]
[/quote]

I have followed this in the past to set my bass up.

[SH73]

[quote name='Manton Customs' timestamp='1461667425' post='3036537']
There are a few useful tools such as the action ruler above, there are also feeler gauges and calipers, all can be useful and worth having for various "tech stuff". However, I think you're approaching setup in the right way by setting the bass up correctly for your personal playing style and the bass itself. Everyone has their preference and the guidelines figures you may have read are just that...guidelines. They are going to change if any of the variables change, such as fret wear (or improper leveling in the first place) string gauge and playing style. So, don't sweat the numbers, if you're setting them up for yourself and they feel good to you, then good job...I'd call that efficient .
[/quote]
Action rules is probably what I need

[Twincam]

Here is an easy way to set up a bass, with household tools that should give you a very playable bass and a pretty standard setup.
Tools need are a 4mm or 3/16 Allen key for the truss rod, a 2.5 mm allen key and a 2mm allen key. Also a small allen key or small flat head screwdriver for the bridge saddle adjustment. Finally a standard business card like the ones from a taxi company not a plastic credit card etc they are too thick.

Of course if you can invest in the correct tools but this method is fine for getting a bass in playing condition, for someone with limited tools.

First tune your bass normally then fret at the first fret and then with your elbow of your right arm hold down the e string at about the 17th fret. This is so you can check the relief of the neck, place the business card corner first in between the 7th fret of the E string while its still held down at the first and last fret. It should slide in nicely if it doesn't fit in as the gap is too small then the neck is too straight and needs more relief, if it fits in but there is also a gap the neck has too much relief (too bent). the card should just fit in there nicely maybe a very slight drag.
Business cards tend to be around .010 - .015" in size which is around about the average in most factory specs for relief. If you tighten the truss rod turning it right it will make the gap smaller, left for increasing the gap. This is of course while your looking at the nut right on if your holding the bass tightening looks like your going left and vice versa!. Assuming the truss rod access is in the headstock.
Ok so turn the allen key small turns at a time, then check the relief as above, remember each time you tighten or loosen the truss rod you must put the A string back and re tune all the strings so you get an accurate reading of the relief. Its time consumming and can sometimes be a pain in the bum but has to be done right.

Once you have the relief set, then we adjust the bridge saddle to alter the final string action (height).

There are a two different areas to measure the string height at the 12th and 17th fret i suggest if you play hard we go for the measurements at the 12th if you play lighter the 17th fret. There is also of course the fact nearly everyone likes a different string height but, 2.5mm - 2mm is about standard. To measure the height get your 2.5mm allen key and i will assume you have chosen to measure from the 12th fret. and without fretting the string measure the height of the E string from top of the fret to the bottom, and adjust at the bridge saddle so again the allen key slides nicely in and out with very slight drag. Make sure the bridge saddle is level it does not need to be angled, also while taking measurements make sure the bass is in relativly the same position you play, as necks move slights amounts at different angles. Ok So once the E is at 2.5mm you can set the A, D and G in this way the final G string should be 2mm. So maybe E and A could be 2.5mm and D and G 2mm in height from the top if the 12th fret to the bottom of the string.
And again after every single small movement of the strings you make at the bridge every time before the height is rechecked it need to be put back into tune.

The bass other than now needing to be intonated should be in very reasonable playing condition. If you dont have a 2.5mm allen key a 3/32" one gives you about 2.4mm. Feel free to set the string height higher or lower, but using allen keys or even drill bits do a good job of measurements. 4mm is the heights action that could be considered playable, under 2mm is low but the lower you go the more buzzing you might get if you hit the strings hard.

Buzzing from frets 1 to 7 indicate too little relief, buzzing in the higher frets indicate to low an action, buzzing all over might indicate just that your playing too hard for the setup.

Then you would set intonation, and recheck the string heights (adjust if needed) if the intonation was well off it will change string height on adjusting. Sometimes you have to go back and forth a bit, setting the action and intonation.

I could write a full on essay about various other set up problems and remedies. Watch setup videos, read my little guide and hopefully it will all make sense. Hope what ive written helps.

[SH73]

[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1461718048' post='3037142']
Here is an easy way to set up a bass, with household tools that should give you a very playable bass and a pretty standard setup.
Tools need are a 4mm or 3/16 Allen key for the truss rod, a 2.5 mm allen key and a 2mm allen key. Also a small allen key or small flat head screwdriver for the bridge saddle adjustment. Finally a standard business card like the ones from a taxi company not a plastic credit card etc they are too thick.

Of course if you can invest in the correct tools but this method is fine for getting a bass in playing condition, for someone with limited tools.

First tune your bass normally then fret at the first fret and then with your elbow of your right arm hold down the e string at about the 17th fret. This is so you can check the relief of the neck, place the business card corner first in between the 7th fret of the E string while its still held down at the first and last fret. It should slide in nicely if it doesn't fit in as the gap is too small then the neck is too straight and needs more relief, if it fits in but there is also a gap the neck has too much relief (too bent). the card should just fit in there nicely maybe a very slight drag.
Business cards tend to be around .010 - .015" in size which is around about the average in most factory specs for relief. If you tighten the truss rod turning it right it will make the gap smaller, left for increasing the gap. This is of course while your looking at the nut right on if your holding the bass tightening looks like your going left and vice versa!. Assuming the truss rod access is in the headstock.
Ok so turn the allen key small turns at a time, then check the relief as above, remember each time you tighten or loosen the truss rod you must put the A string back and re tune all the strings so you get an accurate reading of the relief. Its time consumming and can sometimes be a pain in the bum but has to be done right.

Once you have the relief set, then we adjust the bridge saddle to alter the final string action (height).

There are a two different areas to measure the string height at the 12th and 17th fret i suggest if you play hard we go for the measurements at the 12th if you play lighter the 17th fret. There is also of course the fact nearly everyone likes a different string height but, 2.5mm - 2mm is about standard. To measure the height get your 2.5mm allen key and i will assume you have chosen to measure from the 12th fret. and without fretting the string measure the height of the E string from top of the fret to the bottom, and adjust at the bridge saddle so again the allen key slides nicely in and out with very slight drag. Make sure the bridge saddle is level it does not need to be angled, also while taking measurements make sure the bass is in relativly the same position you play, as necks move slights amounts at different angles. Ok So once the E is at 2.5mm you can set the A, D and G in this way the final G string should be 2mm. So maybe E and A could be 2.5mm and D and G 2mm in height from the top if the 12th fret to the bottom of the string.
And again after every single small movement of the strings you make at the bridge every time before the height is rechecked it need to be put back into tune.

The bass other than now needing to be intonated should be in very reasonable playing condition. If you dont have a 2.5mm allen key a 3/32" one gives you about 2.4mm. Feel free to set the string height higher or lower, but using allen keys or even drill bits do a good job of measurements. 4mm is the heights action that could be considered playable, under 2mm is low but the lower you go the more buzzing you might get if you hit the strings hard.

Buzzing from frets 1 to 7 indicate too little relief, buzzing in the higher frets indicate to low an action, buzzing all over might indicate just that your playing too hard for the setup.

Then you would set intonation, and recheck the string heights (adjust if needed) if the intonation was well off it will change string height on adjusting. Sometimes you have to go back and forth a bit, setting the action and intonation.

I could write a full on essay about various other set up problems and remedies. Watch setup videos, read my little guide and hopefully it will all make sense. Hope what ive written helps.
[/quote]
Thank you 👍