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jazz bass clack


Funky Dunky
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I have a Fender Am Standard Jazz bass and no matter how I play (unless I play with an insanely light touch) I get horrific clack (strings against fretwire). This can be remedied with frustratingly light attack, so we could chalk it up to technique, but is there anything else that could be causing this? Strings? Setup?

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You may need some more relief (forward bow) in the neck. Personally I play very lightly and like a clack when I dig in, so I have my necks very straight, but usually you need some relief to allow for the strings to vibrate...

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[quote name='ped' timestamp='1465594391' post='3069606']
You may need some more relief (forward bow) in the neck. Personally I play very lightly and like a clack when I dig in, so I have my necks very straight, but usually you need some relief to allow for the strings to vibrate...
[/quote]

In addition to the above, I agree with Generale, a bit of clack can be good. I have my neck almost dead straight too, with very low action (too low for some). Personally, I think it adds a lovely growly character to the overall mix.

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Tim - Sterling Sub Ray 4, same amp, no clack.

Dazed - strings, but want a laugh? I can't remember what's on the Jazz. I use DR SunBeams on the Sterling. I can't remember if it's SunBeams or Pure Blues on the Jazz. Setup hasn't been touched since new.

As for the setup, I can't find my measuring tools but it hasn't been adjusted since I got it so it should be around Fender's standard measurements.

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neck relief make it straighter and raise the strings- and or check for a hump in the neck or a shim in the neck raising the heel of the neck a wee bit.

... or if you have got a fair bit of relief and have lowered the bridge to compensate... straighten the neck and raise the bridge...

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[quote name='Funky Dunky' timestamp='1465595104' post='3069616']
..

As for the setup, I can't find my measuring tools but it hasn't been adjusted since I got it so it should be around Fender's standard measurements.
[/quote]

Hehe.. file under 'it was in tune when I bought it'! The setup can wander quite a bit with changing seasons and conditions, even just in a couple of days.
It could be worth getting both basses in front of a decent setterupper, and say you'd like the J to play as near as possible like the Ray.

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[quote name='Funky Dunky' timestamp='1465595104' post='3069616']
As for the setup, I can't find my measuring tools but it hasn't been adjusted since I got it so it should be around Fender's standard measurements.
[/quote]
I read this as - "not set-up ever except by the luck of whatever the factory chucked it out with."

I never actually measure the relief. Take the bass on your lap and fret the A string at the 1st fret. Then while holding the 1st fret, use your other elbow to hold the strings down at the bottom of the neck, near the body. Use your "elbowing" arm-hand to then tap the A string at the 12th fret: does the A-string have any space between the string and the 12th, or is it slap-bang laying on it?

Laying on it - release the truss-rod an 1/8 turn and repeat the exercise.
If it's got some space there, that's good. I like it about 0.5mmi-sh, but it's not critical as long as it has some space.

If the relief is ok, then we need to take a look at the string height...

String Height.
At the bottom of the neck - 20th fret(?) get a pound coin and push the coin under the strings on-top of the fret wire. Can you do this without the string resting on-top of the coin without the string moving up much?
If not, adjust the string heights at the bridge saddles. Try to adjust both screws on the bridge to keep the saddle level.

Pick-up height.
Fret the E-string and the G-string at the 20th fret and slide the pound coin on top of the neck pup and see if you can do this without the
If not - adjust the height of the pup, by adjusting the screws on each side of the pup.

Repeat the pup adjustment for the neck pup.

This set-up works for me. you might want to use a pound + a 2P or something, but it's an easy way to start.

Let us know how you get on.

Edited by Grangur
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That 'clank' is caused by the way you play. If you don't get on another bass, then I'd bet the action and set-up is higher.
Basically there is too much input into the strings so I'd say the only way to stop this is to up your action, or, longer term,
refine your technique so as not to cause it.

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[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1465638435' post='3069808']
That 'clank' is caused by the way you play. If you don't get on another bass, then I'd bet the action and set-up is higher.
Basically there is too much input into the strings so I'd say the only way to stop this is to up your action, or, longer term,
refine your technique so as not to cause it.
[/quote]

This makes sense. The action is higher on the Sterling, and the strings higher tension. No clackage.

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[quote name='Funky Dunky' timestamp='1465643137' post='3069861']
I'll change the strings. I reckon it must be the Pure Blues - lower tension. I'm actually gonna throw some flats on it, and will take it from there. Thanks, guys, and Grangur - thank you for the in-depth tutorial - I'll run that test and take it from there.
[/quote]

You don't have to try flats JUST because of the clak! (unless you were already pre-disposed to flats <_< ). Just follow grangurs advice (although I would use an actual measuring tool personally).

It will take 10 mins - and will give resounding information for the future. I'd measure you favourite bass (i.e. your favourite setup on your basses) and try to more or less copy that on the Jazz. The tension of the strings is a factor in clak, but nowhere near as much as neck relief and string height, as well as playing style of course.

...and yeah, setup 'from the factory' is almost completely null and void by now, even if (big IF) it was done remotely well.

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[quote name='Funky Dunky' timestamp='1465650398' post='3069946']
Truss rod adjustment terrifies me. I really need to find my measuring tool before I attempt any adjustments though.
[/quote]

yep, but tweaking it is a right of passage! Just remember to always go lefty loosely a little first before going back right (if you need to). Never turn more than a an eighth of a turn at a time without checking.

Also, don't believe that crap about leaving the bass for hours or even days before checking it again. You will see the difference in the relief in a matter of minutes, if not seconds.

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I get a lot of Jazz Clack - and for me it's all about hand position. On a J I tend to use the neck pup as a thumb anchor whereas on some other basses I play a lot closer to the bridge, where string tension feels higher, and get a lot less clack. Same thing happens if I use the bridge pickup on my J, but I don't find it as comfortable.

My playing style is pretty much hamfisted bludgeoning so the clack fits right in!

Jon.

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[quote name='Funky Dunky' timestamp='1465650398' post='3069946']
My touch is in between light and heavy, not particularly one or the other. I fancied trying flats anyway, so I'll likely go ahead. Truss rod adjustment terrifies me. I really need to find my measuring tool before I attempt any adjustments though.
[/quote]

There's very little chance of doing any damage. All you have to remember is follow 1 simple rule: If anything you're adjusting gets stiff and hard to turn, stop and try turning it the other way or check with others that what you're doing is right.

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