Mykesbass Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 Last year's kit build made me discover two things - I like tinkering, and I like having two distinct sounds available for my band. Unfortunately, the kit bass gives me a fabulous aggressive, punky P Bass sound - nor what I'm after in my Blues/Soul band! So, I'm taking on, with a fair bit of help with the woodwork the following: 5 string natural Grabber/Ripper shape with Nordstrand Big Singles. Passive for the time being. First bit of advice - I have pictures and dimensions courtesy of G3 on here. Is there a reasonably easy way of transforming these in to plans? Google sketch up or similar? Thanks in advance, Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 I might have mis remembered this, but I think last time I wanted to print full size using a standard printer, I created a PDF file, then scaled it up and then told it to print on A4 with join markers. You end up with loads of sheets of paper, but basically just trim and line up using the join markers and sellotape from the back. Alternative is to get Prontoprint or similar to print it onto A0 paper. Anyone else got any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyTravis Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 A3 not big enough? I'd find a local repro graphics place and see what they'd charge. Love the idea of this bass already! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykesbass Posted July 17, 2016 Author Share Posted July 17, 2016 [quote name='AndyTravis' timestamp='1468755774' post='3093078'] A3 not big enough? I'd find a local repro graphics place and see what they'd charge. Love the idea of this bass already! [/quote] I'll check my basses at home on A3 - be handy if they are that small. Glad you like the idea - I wanted an older, recognisable shape, but not a Jazz bass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyTravis Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 [quote name='Mykesbass' timestamp='1468756153' post='3093084'] I'll check my basses at home on A3 - be handy if they are that small. Glad you like the idea - I wanted an older, recognisable shape, but not a Jazz bass. [/quote] Imagine if Gibson put 2 and 2 together...and did it themselves. Looking forward to seeing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykesbass Posted July 17, 2016 Author Share Posted July 17, 2016 (edited) [quote name='AndyTravis' timestamp='1468756383' post='3093088'] Imagine if Gibson put 2 and 2 together...and did it themselves. Shhh, don't tell 'em!! Did you see my post on the Jackson for sale - could pick up and pack for you if Herman doesn't want to. [/quote] Edited July 17, 2016 by Mykesbass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyTravis Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 Yeah, just weighing up funds as I've seen a sabre I wouldn't mind getting my hands on - every penny counts 😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykesbass Posted July 17, 2016 Author Share Posted July 17, 2016 [quote name='AndyTravis' timestamp='1468757296' post='3093101'] Yeah, just weighing up funds as I've seen a sabre I wouldn't mind getting my hands on - every penny counts 😉 [/quote] ooh, nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted July 17, 2016 Share Posted July 17, 2016 It probably won't fit on A3 but as Andyjr1515 says, you can tweak printer settings to print on multiple sheets with registration marks. Just make sure you double check the actual measurements when you've assembled it. It's very easy to print slightly off scale or get them wrong when drawing and transferring the image Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykesbass Posted July 18, 2016 Author Share Posted July 18, 2016 OK, looks like my BYO kit P Bass will sell so I've been looking at wood for the body. Couple of questions for the knowledgeable - most blanks are about 2" thick. The Ripper is 1.25" - should I be looking for a thinner piece or is this normal to carve away this amount? Also, while on size, the original basses are huge - 14.5" by 21.5" - most blanks seem to be maximum 14" should I just accept a slightly smaller lower bout? Finally, I know Exotic Hardwoods is well regarded. Are his pieces that are advertised as 2 pieces ready glued as a full blank or is this something my woodworker friend would have to do? Thanks again for all the input so far. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted July 19, 2016 Share Posted July 19, 2016 Hi, Mike To be honest, it's often a case of getting a decent piece of wood and sawing or thicknesing it down to size. Most specific body blanks are 2" with many guitar and bass bodies being 1.75" thick. Depending on the supplier, you might be able to get them to supply at your preferred thickness. Also local carpenters / joinery shops might do it for a small charge. Personally, I don't think you would notice a body 1/2" narrower on most designs (particularly if it's in the style of rather than a straight copy) and bigger pieces of timber usually get disproportionately expensive. There are two 'Exotic Hardwoods' - not sure which one you mean. Whatever, a two piece body blank set will always be sold as two separate pieces that will need to be squared up, straightened up and glued. Hope this helps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykesbass Posted July 20, 2016 Author Share Posted July 20, 2016 [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1468956557' post='3094701'] Hi, Mike To be honest, it's often a case of getting a decent piece of wood and sawing or thicknesing it down to size. Most specific body blanks are 2" with many guitar and bass bodies being 1.75" thick. Depending on the supplier, you might be able to get them to supply at your preferred thickness. Also local carpenters / joinery shops might do it for a small charge. Personally, I don't think you would notice a body 1/2" narrower on most designs (particularly if it's in the style of rather than a straight copy) and bigger pieces of timber usually get disproportionately expensive. There are two 'Exotic Hardwoods' - not sure which one you mean. Whatever, a two piece body blank set will always be sold as two separate pieces that will need to be squared up, straightened up and glued. Hope this helps! [/quote] Thanks Andy, most useful. I'm actually surprised by how thin the original Grapper/Rippers were - probably to make up for that enormous girth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3below Posted July 20, 2016 Share Posted July 20, 2016 (edited) An architectural salvage supplier near to me [url="http://www.roofingandsalvagedepot.co.uk/"]http://www.roofingan...agedepot.co.uk/[/url] has mahogany snooker table sides at £12.50. One of these could probably make a complete bass(including neck), two certainly would . You may be able to find similar locally to you? Making your own two piece body has several advantages. If you have access to a planer-thicknesser then purchasing rough sawn timber is much cheaper. Finding a 'mate' with a suitable width planer-thicknesser to thickness the 'planks' before gluing the blank becomes much more likely. Another issue to consider is: routing cavities etc before cutting out the body shape or routing after cutting the body shape. The former in many cases gives the router base a much greater and easier surface to operate on. You might want to investigate the neck dive on a Grabber / Ripper style bass, elongate the upper horn slightly? Move bridge rearwards, shorten the neck whilst maintaining scale length. Edited July 20, 2016 by 3below Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scojack Posted July 20, 2016 Share Posted July 20, 2016 (edited) Oh nice one! ..might take a punt on one of these myself for the woodstash. Edited July 20, 2016 by scojack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted July 20, 2016 Share Posted July 20, 2016 Fully endorse what 3below says above ^ With ref to aiming for 1.25" thickness, just double check the hardware and electrics you are planning to use - especially if you have thoughts to use any push/pull or push/push pots - they can be quite deep! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykesbass Posted July 20, 2016 Author Share Posted July 20, 2016 [quote name='3below' timestamp='1469002300' post='3094913'] An architectural salvage supplier near to me [url="http://www.roofingandsalvagedepot.co.uk/"]http://www.roofingan...agedepot.co.uk/[/url] has mahogany snooker table sides at £12.50. One of these could probably make a complete bass(including neck), two certainly would . You may be able to find similar locally to you? Making your own two piece body has several advantages. If you have access to a planer-thicknesser then purchasing rough sawn timber is much cheaper. Finding a 'mate' with a suitable width planer-thicknesser to thickness the 'planks' before gluing the blank becomes much more likely. Another issue to consider is: routing cavities etc before cutting out the body shape or routing after cutting the body shape. The former in many cases gives the router base a much greater and easier surface to operate on. You might want to investigate the neck dive on a Grabber / Ripper style bass, elongate the upper horn slightly? Move bridge rearwards, shorten the neck whilst maintaining scale length. [/quote] Thanks 3 below - good call on the thickness, and if I do go a fraction thicker hopefully that will negate some neck dive. Also, on that point, I think the original strap pin was in a poor position, I was already thinking of making the upper horn a little blunted so the pin could go in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted July 20, 2016 Share Posted July 20, 2016 [quote name='Mykesbass' timestamp='1469017958' post='3095094'] Thanks 3 below - good call on the thickness, and if I do go a fraction thicker hopefully that will negate some neck dive. Also, on that point, I think the original strap pin was in a poor position, I was already thinking of making the upper horn a little blunted so the pin could go in there. [/quote] Have a peep at the first [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/288555-custom-semi-acoustic-modifications/"]few posts in my semi-acoustic thread here[/url]. Nice thing is that it is all but invisible too rather than a lump of metal at the end of a nice carved bit of wood. I was amazed how much difference it made and it is something I'm going to try again, starting with my own fretless! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykesbass Posted July 20, 2016 Author Share Posted July 20, 2016 [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1469018669' post='3095103'] Have a peep at the first [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/288555-custom-semi-acoustic-modifications/"]few posts in my semi-acoustic thread here[/url]. Nice thing is that it is all but invisible too rather than a lump of metal at the end of a nice carved bit of wood. I was amazed how much difference it made and it is something I'm going to try again, starting with my own fretless! [/quote] Neatly done, and yes, had seen the great result. The original placement on the Gibson is frankly shocking! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykesbass Posted August 4, 2016 Author Share Posted August 4, 2016 Well it's got a nice bridge (with the right spacing) thanks Miles'tone and I've had a couple of good conversations with the guy who will do all the heavy woodwork - just need the parts P Bass to sell to fund the next bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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