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The ol' how many frets debate?


spiltmilk_2000
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Around nine frets would do me almost all the time, while twelve would be perfect.

In present band I do hit a high C# at the eighteenth fret of the G string on one occasion but it's by no means essential.

I can see the logic of twenty-one frets for the competed third octave.

But whatever suits you is the correct number.

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I get a nose bleed at anywhere above 12th fret.

Does 24 frets cost the same as 21 frets? Get the largest number that comes at cost. Might give you more options when you come to sell.

If I was big on soloing I'd get a 6 string bass.

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[quote name='paul_c2' timestamp='1469130969' post='3096065']
I remember going past the 15th fret once. I think it was in 1987.
[/quote]

Me too :) and to give a lesser number, I am thinking about building a short scale eb3 / les paul double cut type bass (early EBO). To reduce (get rid of hopefully) any neck dive I would move the bridge as far back as possible. The ensuing length would be taken up in a shorter neck with less frets, probably about 3, making it 17 in all.

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[quote name='spectoremg' timestamp='1469306055' post='3097336']
What's a bass solo?
[/quote]I've just got in from the pub, but a bass solo is a boring piece of crap that just pads out the set because the band hasn't got enough material, just like a drum solo

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As many as comes with the bass I like is usually my choice!

If I were speccing a custom I'd go with 20 if it was a Jazz style instrument - that way it could be more true to the early 60's designs of Mr Fender.
A 21 fret (like a G&L JB-2) or 24 fret (like a lot of "Super-Jazzes" as they are often called, like a Sadowsky [url="http://sadowsky.com/sadowsky-instruments/nyc-basses/24-fret-basses/"]http://sadowsky.com/...24-fret-basses/[/url] ) will not make it seem untrue to the original design . . . if it's active maybe or one without the traditional features (like a 4 in line headstock, tort guard & chrome control plate, similar shape and wood/paint choices to a traditional fender).

As you said you're going with PJ I'd say it won't look traditional anyway. If I wasn't having the P pickup in a special location, e.g:


You can go with 20, 21, 24 - even maybe as much as 30 frets before you are forcing a pickup towards the bridge!

If the longer neck is constructed properly I don't think it'll make any audible difference - except the extra frets will sound a little different of course. Longer necks generally need slightly more reinforcement - If you do go for a 36 fret neck, I'd strongly recommend going for bookmatched laminates in wood, or better yet composite wrap or reinforcement rods/strips.

Edited by PlungerModerno
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[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1469323096' post='3097439']
The neck doesn't need to be longer, just the finger board really, it's not going to bend up the dusty end.
[/quote]

If you want the same scale length & access you need to make the neck longer, unless you're using a single cut or assymetric doule cutaway like a Zon Hyperbass:

Obviously in the case of a neck through it's not as massive a change (no moving of the neck pocket along the scale) - but for set neck and bolt on it'd need to be in the design before the first cut is made to make the best use of materials & time.

EDIT: P.S. I really dislike the idea of a fingerboard extension - I think they're ugly from the players perspective - but worse than that they can have fret seating issues, instability issues, and typically poor access to play the frets (the whole point of having them). I'll probably come across one I like at some point, but even a 1 fret extension looks odd to me at least till now.

Edited by PlungerModerno
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If I was speccing out a custom instrument, I'd probably go 24, just because it gives you more options. However, this would in no way be a deal breaker and would happily buy a 20 fret bass if it sounded great and felt right.

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