JTUK Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 From a balance and positional point of view I like the 12th to be directly below the strap lock on the top horn. After that 21 or 22 is fine. All my basses will be like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M@23 Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 On bass, I like 21. On guitar, 24. Anything more than 24 makes me twitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EssentialTension Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 Around nine frets would do me almost all the time, while twelve would be perfect. In present band I do hit a high C# at the eighteenth fret of the G string on one occasion but it's by no means essential. I can see the logic of twenty-one frets for the competed third octave. But whatever suits you is the correct number. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_b Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 I get a nose bleed at anywhere above 12th fret. Does 24 frets cost the same as 21 frets? Get the largest number that comes at cost. Might give you more options when you come to sell. If I was big on soloing I'd get a 6 string bass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3below Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 [quote name='paul_c2' timestamp='1469130969' post='3096065'] I remember going past the 15th fret once. I think it was in 1987. [/quote] Me too and to give a lesser number, I am thinking about building a short scale eb3 / les paul double cut type bass (early EBO). To reduce (get rid of hopefully) any neck dive I would move the bridge as far back as possible. The ensuing length would be taken up in a shorter neck with less frets, probably about 3, making it 17 in all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 24 due to a number of factors (Maths based pun, no? I'll get my coat!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeFRC Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 I just stopped practicing. 26 frets here. One thing - I don't really think it matters too much tbh - 24 is nice... but I prefer the sound of slapping on a 20-21 fret neck to a 24 fret.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spectoremg Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 [quote name='MacDaddy' timestamp='1469109913' post='3095843'] Can't comment on construction benefits, but my gigging basses have to have 24 frets due a bass solo I do in one of our songs. [/quote]What's a bass solo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulWarning Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 [quote name='spectoremg' timestamp='1469306055' post='3097336'] What's a bass solo? [/quote]I've just got in from the pub, but a bass solo is a boring piece of crap that just pads out the set because the band hasn't got enough material, just like a drum solo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlungerModerno Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 (edited) As many as comes with the bass I like is usually my choice! If I were speccing a custom I'd go with 20 if it was a Jazz style instrument - that way it could be more true to the early 60's designs of Mr Fender. A 21 fret (like a G&L JB-2) or 24 fret (like a lot of "Super-Jazzes" as they are often called, like a Sadowsky [url="http://sadowsky.com/sadowsky-instruments/nyc-basses/24-fret-basses/"]http://sadowsky.com/...24-fret-basses/[/url] ) will not make it seem untrue to the original design . . . if it's active maybe or one without the traditional features (like a 4 in line headstock, tort guard & chrome control plate, similar shape and wood/paint choices to a traditional fender). As you said you're going with PJ I'd say it won't look traditional anyway. If I wasn't having the P pickup in a special location, e.g: You can go with 20, 21, 24 - even maybe as much as 30 frets before you are forcing a pickup towards the bridge! If the longer neck is constructed properly I don't think it'll make any audible difference - except the extra frets will sound a little different of course. Longer necks generally need slightly more reinforcement - If you do go for a 36 fret neck, I'd strongly recommend going for bookmatched laminates in wood, or better yet composite wrap or reinforcement rods/strips. Edited July 23, 2016 by PlungerModerno Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stingrayPete1977 Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 The neck doesn't need to be longer, just the finger board really, it's not going to bend up the dusty end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PlungerModerno Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 (edited) [quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1469323096' post='3097439'] The neck doesn't need to be longer, just the finger board really, it's not going to bend up the dusty end. [/quote] If you want the same scale length & access you need to make the neck longer, unless you're using a single cut or assymetric doule cutaway like a Zon Hyperbass: Obviously in the case of a neck through it's not as massive a change (no moving of the neck pocket along the scale) - but for set neck and bolt on it'd need to be in the design before the first cut is made to make the best use of materials & time. EDIT: P.S. I really dislike the idea of a fingerboard extension - I think they're ugly from the players perspective - but worse than that they can have fret seating issues, instability issues, and typically poor access to play the frets (the whole point of having them). I'll probably come across one I like at some point, but even a 1 fret extension looks odd to me at least till now. Edited July 24, 2016 by PlungerModerno Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek99 Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 I think 21 is right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lojo Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 How about what your used to ? The distance between and where they are on Fender style basses I'm used to , I've basses with longer scales and more frets but I have to think more about my left arm position Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Schnozzalee Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 At least 21 for me too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 If I was speccing out a custom instrument, I'd probably go 24, just because it gives you more options. However, this would in no way be a deal breaker and would happily buy a 20 fret bass if it sounded great and felt right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodinblack Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 I always go for 24 as that is what the ibanez have, and thats what I tend to buy. never saw an advantage in fewer frets but just joined a new group who do all right now, and it turns out it is much easier on a 21 fret neck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiltmilk_2000 Posted July 24, 2016 Author Share Posted July 24, 2016 Thank you all for the input people. As mentioned all my 'usual' basses are 20 fret fenders. I'm ordering this specifically to provide something different to my norm so think I'm going to go with 24. I'll keep you all up to date in the build diaries section if you're interested... ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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