White Cloud Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 Swoon - be still my beating heart. Absolutely fantastic! ...however, is there anything that I can say or do that will make you reconsider fitting the 3 point bridge??? An instrument of this quality deserves better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3below Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 [quote name='White Cloud' timestamp='1474308947' post='3137017'] Swoon - be still my beating heart. Absolutely fantastic! ...however, is there anything that I can say or do that will make you reconsider fitting the 3 point bridge??? An instrument of this quality deserves better [/quote] Retrofit of Hipshot 3 point bridge will be quite feasible. I could live with the lack of individual string adjustment on my SG bass 3 pointer. What annoyed me most was having to make and use an extender bar so that the silks stopped before the saddles. I thus went to Hipshot from this parish. Hipshot is not perfect either but I worked around that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
6feet7 Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 If you want an extender bar (that I bought for my 1964 Gibson EBO and sold for a stupidly cheap price) I still have one in my 'bits and pieces' draw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted September 20, 2016 Author Share Posted September 20, 2016 [quote name='White Cloud' timestamp='1474308947' post='3137017'] Swoon - be still my beating heart. Absolutely fantastic! ...however, is there anything that I can say or do that will make you reconsider fitting the 3 point bridge??? An instrument of this quality deserves better [/quote] Well...the bridge will be almost the last thing I fit so plenty of time still to consider. I spoke at length to a contact who has an EB-3 and he explained the issue with the silks and the extender bar or thru-body remedies. The advantage I have is that I can position the bridge anywhere the saddles will let me. If the G saddle is wound fully forward with a mm just-in-case, the furthest rearward position of the bottom E still can leave enough clearance for the silks...just. I'll ponder a little more and also look at the Hipshot option, 3below Also, 6feet7, if you can locate your extender bar, there's a distinct possibility we might be able to broker a deal if I do go ahead with the Gibson and find that my calls are rubbish.... Thanks for the views, folks...it helps enormously with things like this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted September 21, 2016 Author Share Posted September 21, 2016 [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1474354159' post='3137255'] Well...the bridge will be almost the last thing I fit so plenty of time still to consider. I spoke at length to a contact who has an EB-3 and he explained the issue with the silks and the extender bar or thru-body remedies. The advantage I have is that I can position the bridge anywhere the saddles will let me. If the G saddle is wound fully forward with a mm just-in-case, the furthest rearward position of the bottom E still can leave enough clearance for the silks...just. I'll ponder a little more and also look at the Hipshot option, 3below Also, 6feet7, if you can locate your extender bar, there's a distinct possibility we might be able to broker a deal if I do go ahead with the Gibson and find that my calls are rubbish.... Thanks for the views, folks...it helps enormously with things like this [/quote] What's the phrase - always have a Plan B? I actually also have a plan C I know the Gibson 3 pointer is ugly and functionally flawed...but it IS at least one visual nod to the original (actually, not quite ref the very original unadjustable bar bridge) on a bass where I've changed almost everything else So the plan is:[list] [*]Start off with the Gibson, positioned as planned with the G saddle fully forward which should - unless D'Addario have change the design of their Chromes - just avoid the silk binding [*]If it needs just that extra bit of space (or maybe/probably in any case) fit the extender bar that 6feet7 is generously sending to me free gratis - what a great forum and a what a great guy [*]If it really is pants to set up and play, order a Hipshot 3 pointer and retro-fit. They have an extra 3/4" at the back, they have adjustable height saddles and they look nicer [/list] Also, good job I checked with Pete about the colour. The colour I was originally going for was the same as my Junior Doublecut: Pete was happy with the depth of colour, but wanted it to be more purple. I tried another ink I already had, a raspberry rather than strawberry shade (the doublecut - also on mahogany - was done with the ink on the left): This gets closer, I think to what he is after: The added advantage is that it is a drawing and calligraphy ink so colour fastness should be pretty much assured...certainly should last Pete out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted September 21, 2016 Author Share Posted September 21, 2016 Normal thing by the way....reds and photos and displays. Looking on my iPad, this looks NOTHING like the real life colour. Trust me....it looks OK in real life Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted September 21, 2016 Author Share Posted September 21, 2016 Glued the headstock plate on and did the final shaping: The bass is now ready for grain fill and staining: I'm going to try dark stainable timbermate, watered right down with some of the ink, as a grainfill, then sand it down and stain it before the usual wipe-on varnish. Not my usual method but I'd like to see how it fares done that way (probably a bit more conventional than some of my finishing methods). If it doesn't work too well, I'll sand it back off and do it in a similar fashion to my double-cut (stained, tru-oil slurried and buffed, varnish on top). In the meantime, it's time to buy the fretwire, tuners, pots and strings! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3below Posted September 21, 2016 Share Posted September 21, 2016 Looking good, must get moving on mine again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Cloud Posted September 21, 2016 Share Posted September 21, 2016 Superb work, I love the neck and headstock laminations. This is going to be very beautiful when complete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheddatom Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 I love the headstock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted September 22, 2016 Author Share Posted September 22, 2016 Thanks, folks - much appreciated I've done the grain fill (dark stainable Timbermate, mixed thin with some of the ink), then stained with the ink. To anyone starting of on this crazy hobby, this is always the point that it looks worse before it looks better - the words of wisdom are "Don't Panic! Just wait until the finishing coats are going on...it'll be fine!" So much so that I tend not to post pics until at least the first finish coats are on. Having said that, that should be in the next couple of days I've then got to get it to Pete to see if it is purple-tinged enough for him. If not, it'll have to all come off and start again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinB Posted September 22, 2016 Share Posted September 22, 2016 [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1474543834' post='3138677'] I've then got to get it to Pete to see if it is purple-tinged enough for him. If not, it'll have to all come off and start again [/quote] Great thread - I love watching this unfold. Errr - couldn't you have stained an off-cut and sent that to Pete for his approval so you wouldn't have this possible problem? Just a thought that I'm sure you've thunk, but I'm curious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted September 22, 2016 Author Share Posted September 22, 2016 [quote name='ColinB' timestamp='1474549782' post='3138731'] Great thread - I love watching this unfold. Errr - couldn't you have stained an off-cut and sent that to Pete for his approval so you wouldn't have this possible problem? Just a thought that I'm sure you've thunk, but I'm curious. [/quote] Well....it's also for my own benefit. The trouble with highly figured coloured woods is that the way the stains react and show is not entirely predictable. Also you absolutely can't judge what they are going to be like until there is some form of final clearcoat on top. I'm using tru-oil almost as a grain filler (it will be ultimately varnished) but it means I can use the early stages to see a fairly representative view of what the stain will look like when it's finished. On a small sample, that is much more difficult. I might be sanding it off anyway (no prob - just acts as an additional grainfill and sand stage) because, although I think I have clinched the colour Pete is after, the saturation level is such that a lot of the figuring is lost. If I lighten the application, on the other hand, it starts moving away from the purple spectrum towards the brighter red which is not - in the absence of seeing the wood I'm using - what Pete was after. In the end, it is likely to be a compromise. My guess is that Pete will LOVE the figuring (he has not seen the wood at all yet), and so it is better that I can show him something I myself think is the nicest option. If he still wants something different then no probs - with this method of staining and finishing it is no great problem at all to sand back to wood and restain. Don't know if any of that made any sense.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinB Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 It all made pefect sense... thanks Andy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bastav Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 Looking good! Cant wait to see what the colour looks like with some finish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted September 23, 2016 Author Share Posted September 23, 2016 [quote name='Bastav' timestamp='1474636708' post='3139474'] Looking good! Cant wait to see what the colour looks like with some finish [/quote] Well, I have a bit of a conundrum. I'm happy with the look of the top but it's not quite the colour Pete was after. With thinning the stain to show the figuring, it's lost the purple tinge (although please also make allowances for my camera's difficulty accurately showing reds): And the back and sides are more like the colour that Pete is after, but I'M not happy with the look (this time forgive the very early stages of the finishing process ): Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myke Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 So what's the answer? I really like both sides tbh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Cloud Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 [quote name='Myke' timestamp='1474657732' post='3139731'] So what's the answer? I really like both sides tbh! [/quote] Me too...!! I'm sure you will work your magic and find the required result! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted September 23, 2016 Share Posted September 23, 2016 Would a coloured lacquer be better? I got some nitrocellulose lacquer rattle cans from Manchester Guitar Tech (name?) and noticed they do a nice range of colours, not badly priced either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted September 24, 2016 Author Share Posted September 24, 2016 [quote name='Norris' timestamp='1474659944' post='3139751'] Would a coloured lacquer be better? I got some nitrocellulose lacquer rattle cans from Manchester Guitar Tech (name?) and noticed they do a nice range of colours, not badly priced either [/quote] My thinking too, Norris First I'll let Pete see it. In the flesh, even before varnishing, it actually looks quite special. Based on that Pete isn't overly aware that it will have figuring, I think he'll love it. If he still wants a bluish/ purplish tinge, I would probably mix a bit of spirit stain into the final coats of varnish (nitro probably would react). Ref the back, again I probably need Pete's view. I think my preference would be back, sides and neck back to the mahogany, but I could just do the neck (including the through section) Whatever, I'm quite confident now that it's going to look pretty good when it's finished. As I said earlier, this is the point where it always looks mightily dodgy - just like household paintwork before you add the gloss coat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykesbass Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1474699645' post='3139871'] First I'll let Pete see it. In the flesh, even before varnishing, it actually looks quite special. Based on that Pete isn't overly aware that it will have figuring, I think he'll love it. [/quote] I'd be very surprised if anyone who likes SG/EB3 style basses wouldn't absolutely love that finish. It's simply stunning in the way it captures the old natural, dark mahogany vibe of the originals and adds some amazing, yet completely appropriate figuring. Hope Pete loves it when he sees it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted September 25, 2016 Author Share Posted September 25, 2016 [quote name='Mykesbass' timestamp='1474790295' post='3140437'] I'd be very surprised if anyone who likes SG/EB3 style basses wouldn't absolutely love that finish. It's simply stunning in the way it captures the old natural, dark mahogany vibe of the originals and adds some amazing, yet completely appropriate figuring. Hope Pete loves it when he sees it. [/quote] Happily he did And more to the point, so did his wife who is paying for it ('special' birthday in Nov) . I've said I'll try a purple or blue tint for the final varnish to see if we can get a touch less red while retaining the figuring on the top but no probs if that doesn't make much difference (and I've got a decent amount of off-cuts to be able to do some trials on). He's also opted for a fully stained back sides and neck too so I can just get on and sort the finishing. I'll probably do the fretting before the final varnish coats so I don't bruise the soft lacquer. It's now time to order the final bits so that I'm not held up waiting for them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Len_derby Posted September 25, 2016 Share Posted September 25, 2016 [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1474807606' post='3140630'] Happily he did And more to the point, so did his wife who is paying for it ('special' birthday in Nov) . [/quote] Shame, because if he didn't want it....... Seriously though I'm looking forward to seeing it and hearing him play it. He's a great player and really makes that fretless you made him sing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted September 26, 2016 Author Share Posted September 26, 2016 [quote name='Len_derby' timestamp='1474832892' post='3140936'] Shame, because if he didn't want it....... Seriously though I'm looking forward to seeing it and hearing him play it. He's a great player and really makes that fretless you made him sing [/quote] Trust me, Neil....you don't want to hear Pete sing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted September 27, 2016 Author Share Posted September 27, 2016 (edited) The fretwire and fretboard dots arrived I used a brad wood drill bit to drill the 6mm holes for the dots. Not the ideal thing to use but the smallest forstner I had was 10mm. Pretty much got away with it - just one bit of chipping on the ebony that was filled with epoxy mixed with ebony dust: It really does work a treat - once sanded it's pretty impossible to work out which fret it was!: For the frets, I'm sure there are better ways of doing them, but the first thing I usually do is make sure the slots are clear and that they are deep enough at the sides where I've radiused the board: I then relieve the top of the slot just a touch with a triangular needle file: I cut the fretwire oversize and buy in coils so it is already at a tighter radius than my fretboard. I put a tiny bead of titebond along the tangs then hammer one side, the other side, then the middle to make sure the tangs lock into the wood. The squeeze-out of glue tells me if the fret's seated properly, but needs wiping off the board with a damp cloth before it sets. Before I trim the ends (I forgot to take a photo so this is already trimmed) I clamp a radius block onto the board to make sure they are fully seated while the titebond cures: And there it is, trimmed ready for edge sanding, board oiling and fret level and polish : As always, thanks for looking, folks Edited September 27, 2016 by Andyjr1515 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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