White Cloud Posted September 27, 2016 Share Posted September 27, 2016 Such a great build, thanks as ever for being kind enough to take the time to share! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted September 28, 2016 Author Share Posted September 28, 2016 Not much extra progress. Got distracted by a bookshelf that fell off the wall, flinging all the books onto the floor and I fixed it good and proper and it fell off the wall again, flinging all the books onto the floor MrsAndyjr1515 was suitably impressed by my skills and effort as you can imagine What I have done is darkened the body neck through to take out a pinkish hue: ...and scraped off the red dye from the maple veneer under the fretboard: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBassBob Posted September 28, 2016 Share Posted September 28, 2016 I cannot wait to see this finished Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sblueplanet Posted September 28, 2016 Share Posted September 28, 2016 I've been looking at the dot inlays on the 12 fret position and they look kinda squint in the pic above. Is it just me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted September 28, 2016 Author Share Posted September 28, 2016 [quote name='sblueplanet' timestamp='1475099171' post='3143134'] I've been looking at the dot inlays on the 12 fret position and they look kinda squint in the pic above. Is it just me? [/quote] Hadn't noticed that but just measured it and yes, you're right. Not as much as it looks on that shot but one of the two dots is about 1/4mm out. Not having a 6mm Forstner bit, I used progressively greater size Brad bits from 3mm to 6mm. I reckon one of them must have caught the edge of the hole and skewed it. In hindsight, I should have come down in bit size not up....the punch hole locations were spot on. I've also since found out that you can actually get a 6mm Forstner - I think it's the smallest obtainable. I probably will leave it be, what with Pete's squiffy eyes an' all . I could set a block in as it's the twelfth position but I think that would look a bit odd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3below Posted September 29, 2016 Share Posted September 29, 2016 What is the world coming to, 1/4 mm error. Gibson managed much more than that with my SG bass .The bridge alignment was / is out by 2mm at least. How the bass escaped with the obvious uneven string spacing on the neck is anyone's guess. Supertone adjustable saddles sorted that one out. Looking good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted September 29, 2016 Author Share Posted September 29, 2016 [quote name='3below' timestamp='1475128981' post='3143216'] What is the world coming to, 1/4 mm error. Gibson managed much more than that with my SG bass .The bridge alignment was / is out by 2mm at least. How the bass escaped with the obvious uneven string spacing on the neck is anyone's guess. Supertone adjustable saddles sorted that one out. Looking good [/quote] Mmmm....but you know when you're decorating and you spot a bubble in the wallpaper.... Trouble is, now I've seen it it will bug me. I have a spare dot. I won't rush into it, but I think I know how I could re-drill in the correct place and make the fix invisible.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted September 29, 2016 Author Share Posted September 29, 2016 No....it's got to be fixed. Now I've looked properly in the daylight, it's more like 1/2mm. What the eye sees is not as much the angle as the doubling of the effect of the gap between the edge of the squiffy dot and the 11th fret and the gap between the edge of the dot and the 12th fret which, of course, becomes a 1mm difference. I will drill a 1mm hole in the correct position in the dot itself, then use that as the guide for the Brad bit, dig out the excess MOP and fill the remaining gap with epoxy mixed with ebony dust. I'm grateful to sblueplanet for pointing it out. It would have been irritating if I hadn't spotted it until the frets had been levelled, polished and ready to go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted September 29, 2016 Author Share Posted September 29, 2016 Done - I'll post some shots once I'm off the phone to those t***s at vodafone.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted September 29, 2016 Share Posted September 29, 2016 It's amazing how good the eye is at picking out patterns - and flaws! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3below Posted September 29, 2016 Share Posted September 29, 2016 Another good 'fix'. Attention to detail just seems to get sharper as the build progresses and like you minor imperfections start to bug me. It is a downhill (or uphill) slope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted September 29, 2016 Author Share Posted September 29, 2016 In pictures. Drilled centre hole with 1mm router bit: Then the 6mm brad bit: This left hole in new position and sliver of old dot: Winkled that out and fixed dot in with epoxy mixed with ebony dust: Let dry, sand and: That's better! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3below Posted September 29, 2016 Share Posted September 29, 2016 Quality of pictures sets new higher bar for build accounts In other news Gibson apparently discontinue SG basses and Andyjr now steps up to meet UK demand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted September 29, 2016 Author Share Posted September 29, 2016 [quote name='3below' timestamp='1475179651' post='3143873'] Quality of pictures sets new higher bar for build accounts In other news Gibson apparently discontinue SG basses and Andyjr now steps up to meet UK demand. [/quote] Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oopsdabassist Posted September 29, 2016 Share Posted September 29, 2016 Your attention to detail is outstanding Andy, fair play to you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted September 30, 2016 Author Share Posted September 30, 2016 (edited) I had a length of green luminlay in my bits drawer. As Pete already uses that as side dots in his fretlessThumb Tribute, I thought it would be worth putting it in for the side dots of this one. I use a 3mm brad wood drill to drill a hole a couple of mm deep; drop of cyano on the end of the luminlay stick; push in: Then I just cut off flush with a razor saw and tidy up with a single-edged razor blade. Here it is after tidying up: I've got just a small dint to sand out of the back of the neck and at the upper neck join, then it's pretty much ready for the wipe-on varnish coats And now I can't procrastinate any more - got to find the appropriate bits for the varitone selector switch and choke! Edited September 30, 2016 by Andyjr1515 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Cloud Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 Just so good, want want WANT! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted September 30, 2016 Author Share Posted September 30, 2016 [quote name='White Cloud' timestamp='1475260448' post='3144594'] Just so good, want want WANT! [/quote] Well - for a mere king's ransom.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3below Posted September 30, 2016 Share Posted September 30, 2016 In related quality control and perfection issues, whilst playing my Kramer DMZ4001 this evening what do I notice? The 12th 15th and 17th fret dots are well adrift of even spacing between the frets, probably 2 ~ 3 mm. Unlike Andyjr I do not intend to relocate the dots Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted October 1, 2016 Author Share Posted October 1, 2016 Anyone any good with circuits? One of the early Gibson versions with a 4-way rotary is this: The choke/notch filter I'm going to use has 4 inputs - full primary coil, 1/2 primary, full secondary coil, 1/2 secondary. That got me thinking:[list] [*]With the pickup I have and the choke I'm using, I have no idea what it is going to sound like ref the position 4 of neck pickup with choke [*]The only dial I can get hold of is a 6 position [*]I have ordered the 'normal' 3 pole 4 position rotary switch, but also have a 2 pole 6 position switch [*]My thoughts are, is it possible with the 2 pole 6 position rotary - and dispensing with the resistor and extra capacitor (I will have a fairly well matched bridge pickup that will have the same pot and cap values as the neck) - to get three of the four options from the one choke, ie 1= neck only; 2=both ; 3=bridge only; 4=neck with full primary choke; 5=neck with 1/2 primary choke; 6=neck with full secondary choke? [/list] I drew this out and it was so straightforward I'm presuming I've [b]completely[/b] missed something? Ignore the variation at the bottom left hand side - the bridge arrangement would be identical to the neck arrangement top left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3below Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 (edited) At a first run through that appears to match what you specify. Although being somewhat 'rusty' with my electronics I am figuring that the additional resistor and capacitor at the tail end of the Gibson circuit (0.22K, 0.02uF?) are part of a parallel CR series L notch filter. Figure 8 [url="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RLC_circuit#Other_configurations"]https://en.wikipedia..._configurations[/url] gives the circuit and relevant maths. Are these the extra 'extra resistor and capacitor' you are thinking of dispensing with? If so you may find you need to keep them. Like you I may have also missed something obvious in working through this. Any proper Electronics/Elec Engineers please confirm or correct the ageing Physicist who ironically is currently teaching active and passive filters. Edited October 1, 2016 by 3below Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted October 1, 2016 Author Share Posted October 1, 2016 [quote name='3below' timestamp='1475350387' post='3145331'] At a first run through that appears to match what you specify Although being somewhat 'rusty' with my Electronics I am figuring that the additional resistor and capacitor at the tail end of Gibson circuit (0.22K, .02uF?) are part of a parallel CR series L notch filter. Figure 8 [url="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RLC_circuit#Other_configurations"]https://en.wikipedia..._configurations[/url] gives the circuit and relevant maths. Are these extra 'extra resistor and capacitor' you are thinking of dispensing with? If so you may find you need to keep them. I may have also missed something obvious in working through this. Any proper Electronics /Elec Engineers please confirm or correct the ageing Physicist who ironically is currently teaching active and passive filters. [/quote] Ah....that makes sense. I don't really understand how notch filters work. I'll look up that ref in Wikipedia. Question is, whether it is possible to put those components in the right place with a two pole switch... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ahpook Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 Simply amazing work, as per. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3below Posted October 1, 2016 Share Posted October 1, 2016 Yes is the short answer. Longer answer is, put the parallel CR combination in front of the '4' connection on switch, neck pickup. This gives CR into switch into L then ground. Your circuit is easier to follow than the Gibson one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted October 2, 2016 Author Share Posted October 2, 2016 (edited) [quote name='3below' timestamp='1475351907' post='3145352'] Yes is the short answer. Longer answer is, put the parallel CR combination in front of the '4' connection on switch, neck pickup. This gives CR into switch into L then ground. Your circuit is easier to follow than the Gibson one. [/quote] OK. I think I've got the concept. Thanks 3below The Wikipedia article is very good....fascinating is the history. How these early physicists worked out what they did is amazing. In the Gibson circuit, the CR bit of the circuit appears to be there also In position 3, neck pickup only?Presumably it doesn't affect anything until there's also an earthed inductance coil in the circuit? Edited October 2, 2016 by Andyjr1515 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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