Cort Action DLX Setup

[wishface]

I brought one of these the other day and I'm having a couple of issues.

Firstly there's a lot of buzz on the low e string mainly around the 5th fret, but elsewhere also.

There is some minor buzz on the G string at the 15th fret, very minor.

There are two pickups, the back one however is noticeably higher, and thus nearer the strings, than the front. I don't seem to be able to lower the back one, i think it's as screwed in as possible and i've not had much success with the tools at hand raising the front one. I don't want to tinker in case they are meant to be this way. But I would prefer the back pick up to be lowered. This is because...

The action feels comfortable (aside from buzz), but the saddles seem really high. I don't like the strings too close to the pickup when i pluck because it's uncomfortable and so i'd prefer the action slightly lower. I've already raised the G string somewhat as well as the E.

I have not adjusted the truss rod and don't feel terrible comfortable doing so. Does anyone with one of these instruments have any experience of how it's meant to be? Thanks

[BassBus]

It's meant to be the way that's comfortable for you. There is no one setup for every instrument nevermind player. I have one of these as a fiver. Fretwork above the 12th is in need of some attention but other than that setting it up should follow the same rules for every bass.

Jason from Fodera recently produced a series of videos on how to set up a bass.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgmoRHr2cD8

[wishface]

if you have one of these basses, is the bridge pickup meant to be nearer the strings than the other?

I'd like to lower it, but my screwdrivers won't budge the screw. Same with the truss rod cover.

EDIT; where can i get a truss rod screwdriver? The alan keys i have fit but they are not long enough to get past the strings.

When they say turn left to loosen the rod, do they mean pull the wrench towards you (assuming the bass is flat on your lap and the neck is facing your left hand).

Edited August 2, 2016 by wishface

[BassBus]

Pickups are usually the same distance from the string whether back or front. Too close and the magnetic field can actually pull the string so much it can ruin your intonation. there is a specific video in the Fodera set on pickup height.

You might need a bigger screw driver to move the screws. I've had that problem too and it took a bigger driver to do the job.

You might have to move the strings to set the neck relief. There are always suppliers of allen keys of all sorts on ebay or diy stores or motor stores.

Lefty loosey and righty tighty are when you look at the opening to the trus rod. On your Cort stand at the head end and look down the neck. Left turn loosens the neck, right turn tightens it.

[wishface]

I'm seeing contradictory information. Some places say turn the rod clockwise to losen it. But as I look at the opening from the headstock (where the rod can be accessed), that's turning it right which according to you tightens it. Can you clarify which it is please?

[BassBus]

I can't put it any more clearly than I did above. Have you watched the video? Fodera sell bass that cost $12000. They know what they are talking about.

[wishface]

I have watched the video, it was great. But I couldn't tell which way he was tweaking the rod and for what reason.

I'm not calling you a liar, I'm simply asking for clarification because I've read a few articles on this that say turn it both ways.

[Norris]

If you look at the top of the nut down onto where the allen key goes in, anti-clockwise (or "lefty") to loosten, clockwise ("righty") to tighten. Take it steady

[HowieBass]

And when you do start adjusting the truss rod, even a quarter of a turn can change the relief a fair bit when the neck is close to being right. It's not uncommon to have the bridge pickup closer to the strings than the neck pickup because the strings vibrate with a reduced amplitude the nearer you get to the bridge and hence produce lower output/volume - therefore to even out the volume from neck to bridge pickup you will often find them at different heights. However some basses will indeed have both pickups at a similar height when the bridge pickup has been designed to be hotter (have a higher output) than that used in the neck position.

[wishface]

I'll have to get a more suitable allen key, with the strings in the way i can only turn it so far.

[HowieBass]

You can slacken the strings off a little and move them up out of the nut slots to give yourself more room to make adjustments, then tune back up to pitch and check the relief again. I've got a five string where the A string runs right across where I need to get the hex key in so that's what I have to do.

[wishface]

The strings are about half a centimetre off the neck at the body end off the neck. The other end is fine, aside from the buzzing.

[attachment=224778:20160803_100414.jpg][attachment=224779:20160803_100515.jpg]

This feels a little high. Is this normal?

Ignore the sock

Edited August 3, 2016 by wishface

[HowieBass]

Way too high! Is this a new instrument or one bought from a previous owner? If it's new I'd take it back to the shop and get them to sort out the setup. Regarding the string to pickup gaps; with the strings held down at the highest fret you usually aim for a gap of about 1/8". Does that bridge pickup yield if you push down on it (rather than trying to lower it using the screws)? That'll tell you if there's any travel available. I'd expect both pickups to have about the same thickness so unless the body routing isn't deep enough (for the bridge pickup) then you ought to be able to lower it. The neck might need a shim at the back of the neck pocket in order to angle it back if you can't get the bass setup correctly.

[wishface]

It's new.

EDIT: to be clear, i'm measuring the distance from the neck right at the end to the string. This doesn't include the fret (which is about a milimeture or so), and I'm using a ruler. What should it be?

I would have thought the last thing it needed was a shim, wouldn't that push the neck further off the body, if slightly? That would necessitate a higher action surely?

I've lowered the pickup a bit, but i'm not sure I should do it any further until the relief is set, if ncessary. I'm not sure what I should do. How high should a pickup be?

Edited August 3, 2016 by wishface

[HowieBass]

As an indication, my Squier Jazz has a gap between the 20th fret and the E of about 2.8mm (measured from the top of the fret to the underside of the string. You should always measure relief and action this way. A shim can be as thick (or thin, however you choose to view it) as a piece of card (say a business card). When you place one at the back of the neck pocket it acts as a micro-tilt adjustment and angles the neck back (which in your case would reduce the action at the body end of the neck). A shim at the front of the neck pocket will tilt the neck forwards (which will increase the action). A full neck pocket shim raises the whole neck and reduces the action when you've run out of adjustment on the saddles (I had to do this with a Cort Curbow I bought via eBay).

I've already told you what kind of gaps to aim for with string to pickup (and thus pickup height) and how to measure it. My Jazz has gaps of 4mm for both pickups when I fret the E at the 20th.

[wishface]

I'm measuring the fret to the string and I'm getting a similar measurement (again not 100% accurate), about 3mm, possibly 4mm

My concen regarding the shim wasn't push the neck nearer the strings, but that the strings already seem high as it is. The saddles seem high already, I'd rather lower the action and add relief, if that's the right option. Does that make sense. That's why i posted the picture of the bridge.

Edited August 3, 2016 by wishface

[wishface]

I have a feeling i could twist the trust rod endlessly (which isn't good, i gather) and make no real difference. I'm not an expert in this. I've made a small adjustment, but I've not yet noticed any huge difference, it's hard to tell objectively.

[stu_g]

if your unsure, finding someone who could do a setup for you might be your best bet.
it makes all the difference to have a decent setup, can transform some instruments
you have to remember there are time constraints on factory setups so they arent always setup to optimum playability or to your own specific liking.

[wishface]

It would be nice to be able to do this myself.

[wishface]

How do you tell the difference between needing to raise action or add relief?

[stu_g]

yes it worth learning how to do it, i noticed in your other thread you mentioned you had a revelation jazz bass
i bought one of those, set it up, added a shim to the neck and i have to say its a great bass for the money

[stu_g]

i normally adjust neck till its quite straight, if there is buzzing on the first 3 frets on any of the strings thats normally a sign the neck is too straight so a little relief is needed.
then i lower the saddles until i have an action i like with no fret buzz.

[wishface]

[quote name='stu_g' timestamp='1470229406' post='3104275'] yes it worth learning how to do it, i noticed in your other thread you mentioned you had a revelation jazz bass i bought one of those, set it up, added a shim to the neck and i have to say its a great bass for the money [/quote]It's a decent enough bass, it's just very heavy

[wishface]

[quote name='stu_g' timestamp='1470229640' post='3104281'] i normally adjust neck till its quite straight, if there is buzzing on the first 3 frets on any of the strings thats normally a sign the neck is too straight so a little relief is needed. then i lower the saddles until i have an action i like with no fret buzz. [/quote]So the issue I'm having is the buzz on the E. It seems pronounced around the 5/6 frets, but it can be heard, to much smaller degree, further up. The relief, as far as I can measure it, is still a little narrow. Can't quite fit a credit card in without some string resistance.

I could twist the truss rod, but I wonder if this is the issue.

[stu_g]

does the neck look straight if you look down it?Normally i would just hold headstock into side of my face and look down the neck
if its straight or has a gentle curve that would be a good starting point
there isnt much point adjusting anything else till you know the neck is straight then you can adjust saddle etc adjust intonation.