New Bass in progress

[Bottle]

Starting a woodworking class next month so I'm going to build a new bass (body-only since I will only have eight weeks of classes). Will likely go for a MM pup with maybe a Jazz in the bridge position with a three-way switch on the control plate. L:eabing towards a Tele style plate with just a jack, vol pot and the three-way selector, just to make it as minimalist as possible

I'm hoping to source the rest of the parts on BC or online - can anyone give me recommendations for a good UK-based supplier of bass related parts?

I can get the wood from a couple of local vendors - thinking swamp ash for the body core then a cap with a contrast veneer underneath, depending on what the wood guy has in stock.

Neck will be brought in ready-fretted.

Stay tuned!


Ian

[BassBus]

CH Guitars
http://www.chguitars.co.uk/

guitarsandwoods are in Portugal but sell through Ebay UK
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/guitarsandwoods/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

I've used them both and had a great service.

[Bottle]

That looks extremely comprehensive!

Many thanks!!!

[Mykesbass]

MM & Jazz - isn't the jazz usually the neck pickup? Nothing wrong with being different though!

[PlungerModerno]

Have you seen the Stu Hamm sig Washburn?


He's now with Warwick - Here's the ProtoType:
[url="http://kekbfm.com/behold-be-among-the-first-in-the-world-to-glimpse-the-new-stu-hamm-signature-bass-photos/"]http://kekbfm.com/behold-be-among-the-first-in-the-world-to-glimpse-the-new-stu-hamm-signature-bass-photos/[/url]
[url="http://kekbfm.com/behold-be-among-the-first-in-the-world-to-glimpse-the-new-stu-hamm-signature-bass-photos/"][/url]
And the signature instrument:


Which oddly enough doesn't have the usual Single coil & MM style pickup - it has two soapbars!

Edited August 17, 2016 by PlungerModerno

[Andyjr1515]

Excellent news, Bottle

Axesrus are also pretty good for hardware, etc http://www.axesrus.co.uk/

Can't wait to see the progress!

Andy

[Bottle]

[quote name='PlungerModerno' timestamp='1471475233' post='3113390']
Have you seen the Stu Hamm sig Washburn?


He's now with Warwick - Here's the ProtoType:
[url="http://kekbfm.com/behold-be-among-the-first-in-the-world-to-glimpse-the-new-stu-hamm-signature-bass-photos/"]http://kekbfm.com/be...re-bass-photos/[/url]
[url="http://kekbfm.com/behold-be-among-the-first-in-the-world-to-glimpse-the-new-stu-hamm-signature-bass-photos/"][/url]
And the signature instrument:


Which oddly enough doesn't have the usual Single coil & MM style pickup - it has two soapbars!
[/quote]
Yes, I had something in mind similar to the Washburn, with a maple neck/fretboard. Bass body would be mostly swamp ash with a maple cap and a contrast veneer to suit (whatever the wood guy can source for me)

[Bottle]

[quote name='Mykesbass' timestamp='1471471217' post='3113353']
MM & Jazz - isn't the jazz usually the neck pickup? Nothing wrong with being different though!
[/quote]
Yes, you're absolutely correct, as per MusicMan Stingray 4HS, Sandberg Cali TM4's etc. My only "gripe" with that particular layout is that the MM is much further back towards the bridge. I prefer having the humbucker in it's normal position for a Musicman, with a Jazz-style single-coil in the bridge position to get that "burpy" tone reminiscent of a Jazz bass with the bridge pup rolled all the way up.

Still working on the control layout - whether to go VVT, VBT, Vol-Select-Tone or some other arrangement with coil-tap/split options

[dannybuoy]

Alternative layout for you - JMJ! You can get the MM pickup in the sweet spot then have the J's either side in a sandwich. The J will be quite far back in the 70s-ish position but it should be a good setup, best of both worlds!

[PlungerModerno]

[quote name='Bottle' timestamp='1471626785' post='3114630']
Yes, I had something in mind similar to the Washburn, with a maple neck/fretboard. Bass body would be mostly swamp ash with a maple cap and a contrast veneer to suit (whatever the wood guy can source for me)
[/quote]

Cool - I mainly mentioned the Stu Hamm basses as a response to Mykesbass comment - He mentioned it is usually the other way around. Either can work great with the right pickups. Matching pickups is key to getting a decent blended sound on basses with two or more pickups.

I think a maple fb with a maple cap can look amazing . . . see below:



These are just some of my top picks (GAS GAS GAS) from the bassdirect site!

[quote name='Bottle' timestamp='1471627290' post='3114634']
Yes, you're absolutely correct, as per MusicMan Stingray 4HS, Sandberg Cali TM4's etc. My only "gripe" with that particular layout is that the MM is much further back towards the bridge. I prefer having the humbucker in it's normal position for a Musicman, with a Jazz-style single-coil in the bridge position to get that "burpy" tone reminiscent of a Jazz bass with the bridge pup rolled all the way up.

Still working on the control layout - whether to go VVT, VBT, Vol-Select-Tone or some other arrangement with coil-tap/split options
[/quote]

I'd say putting a Jazz pickup behind a MM pickup in the Typical 'Ray location will give you a pretty narrow scope of sound compared to, say a S MM S - putting a Jazz pickup behind AND in front of the MM pickup. I love the neck pickup sound though. If you're not a fan please feel free to ignore!

[Bottle]

[quote name='PlungerModerno' timestamp='1471627902' post='3114639']
I'd say putting a Jazz pickup behind a MM pickup in the Typical 'Ray location will give you a pretty narrow scope of sound compared to, say a S MM S - putting a Jazz pickup behind AND in front of the MM pickup. I love the neck pickup sound though. If you're not a fan please feel free to ignore!
[/quote]
I had at one point considered the JMMJ route, but I just can't seem to like the layout that much TBH. I tend to play my Ibby Jazz a-like with the neck pup mostly rolled off anyway, and the bridge all the way up. I did think about the 'Ray 4HS layout as there is actually a second single-coil pup routed under the pickguard for humcancelling the neck pickup.

Still, the design is in it's early stages so I'll be adjusting the spec and position of bits until I'm happy with the layout and start commiting to the wood selection.

PS like the flamed tops, especially the diagonal bookmatched one

[Bottle]

Bridge & MM Pickup sorted (many thanks Thunderbird) and neck with maple fretboard (Dannybuoy)

Have a little question regarding placing the bridge. Obviously this will be a 34" scale bass (as the neck is already fretted for that scale length), so how does one determine the optimum position? Do you pick the midpoint of the saddle travel front to back or is there an offset position to account for string intonation?

Cheers,
Ian

[Andyjr1515]

[quote name='Bottle' timestamp='1471695735' post='3115116']
Bridge & MM Pickup sorted (many thanks Thunderbird) and neck with maple fretboard (Dannybuoy)

Have a little question regarding placing the bridge. Obviously this will be a 34" scale bass (as the neck is already fretted for that scale length), so how does one determine the optimum position? Do you pick the midpoint of the saddle travel front to back or is there an offset position to account for string intonation?

Cheers,
Ian
[/quote]
Hi, Ian
There is a frets and bridge calculator on the Stewmac site but it does assume you are using a standard Fender P-bass bridge

How I do it is slightly different to what you say. If I have at least 4mm adjustment of the saddles, I wind the G saddle to the very front and place that at the scale length, knowing that it will wind back maybe 1mm but that the bass strings will be able to wind back at least 4mm (the bottom E is usually at least 3mm back from scale length - but can be more. However, the G saddle will never be in front of the scale length but often isn't much further back than that). If I have more limited saddle movement, then I would wind the G to the front and place it 1mm max back from scale length.

Hope this helps and anyone who disagrees please do chip in!

Edited August 20, 2016 by Andyjr1515

[Grangur]

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1471718581' post='3115329']
Hi, Ian
There is a frets and bridge calculator on the Stewmac site but it does assume you are using a standard Fender P-bass bridge

How I do it is slightly different to what you say. If I have at least 4mm adjustment of the saddles, I wind the G saddle to the very front and place that at the scale length, knowing that it will wind back maybe 1mm but that the bass strings will be able to wind back at least 4mm (the bottom E is usually at least 3mm back from scale length - but can be more. However, the G will never be in front of the scale length but often isn't much further back than scale). If I have more limited saddle movement, then I would wind the G to the front and place it 1mm max back from scale length.

Hope this helps and anyone who disagrees please do chip in!
[/quote]
This is about what I do. IMHO it's a matter of trying to get it that the G saddle isn't so far forward as to be a touch "unstable", but still have enough travel on the E saddle to not totally compress the spring, or worse.

Having just measured 4 basses, the saddle of the G sting is pretty consistently 34" from the bridge side edge of the nut.

[Bottle]

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1471718581' post='3115329']
Hi, Ian
There is a frets and bridge calculator on the Stewmac site but it does assume you are using a standard Fender P-bass bridge

How I do it is slightly different to what you say. If I have at least 4mm adjustment of the saddles, I wind the G saddle to the very front and place that at the scale length, knowing that it will wind back maybe 1mm but that the bass strings will be able to wind back at least 4mm (the bottom E is usually at least 3mm back from scale length - but can be more. However, the G saddle will never be in front of the scale length but often isn't much further back than that). If I have more limited saddle movement, then I would wind the G to the front and place it 1mm max back from scale length.

Hope this helps and anyone who disagrees please do chip in!
[/quote]

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1471719263' post='3115334']
This is about what I do. IMHO it's a matter of trying to get it that the G saddle isn't so far forward as to be a touch "unstable", but still have enough travel on the E saddle to not totally compress the spring, or worse.

Having just measured 4 basses, the saddle of the G sting is pretty consistently 34" from the bridge side edge of the nut.
[/quote]

That's all good information to know many thanks chaps

I love BC for just this reason. All the accumulated knowledge is here.

[Bottle]

Have now got a control plate and neck plate courtesy of Grangur (many thanks!)

[Bottle]

Have now started the wood working class. First couple of weeks were being tutored on different aspects of using workshop tools etc but should be clear of that now and can concentrate on the build. Wood ordered today so should be here in a couple of weeks. Next two weeks I shall be prepping templates and the like. Have got a few designs in mind - just need to commit them to paper.....

[Andyjr1515]

[quote name='Bottle' timestamp='1475582261' post='3147046']
Have now started the wood working class. First couple of weeks were being tutored on different aspects of using workshop tools etc but should be clear of that now and can concentrate on the build. Wood ordered today so should be here in a couple of weeks. Next two weeks I shall be prepping templates and the like. Have got a few designs in mind - just need to commit them to paper.....
[/quote]
Excellent! Can't wait

[Bottle]

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1475656133' post='3147625']
Excellent! Can't wait
[/quote]
Yes, I'm kinda intrigued to see how this turns out.

Started roughing out a template yesterday evening, looks a little like the Stu Hamm sig model posted above but with more lean (i.e a little more asymmetry with the curve at the bridge end). Taking out a little more with the belly and bottom reliefs (not quite as extreme as a Ritter ) so it's less Fender-ish

[Bottle]

Wood for the body blank has arrived! Woohoo That's the good news. Sourced some American Ash from these folks [url="http://woodentops.co.uk/"]here[/url] - they actually specialise in kitchen worktops and have pre-laminated the sections together for me. Blank is 600x450x38mm and is semi-finished i.e. planed/thicknessed but no fine sanding. I've taken some photos of the grain (looks spectacular) but I can't seem to upload piccies at the moment.

The bad news is that I've suffered another eye infection. Can't drive. Had to cancel tonights' woodworking class. Then it's half-term so I'm a couple of weeks behind now Really got the (drill) bit between the teeth as well.....

Still, now gives me time to get all my router templates ready, then the big push to finish after the half-term break.

On course to have it completed by Christmas....I hope. Any suggestions for wood treatment i.e. varnish or lacquer?


Ian