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We can refinish this bass


WalMan
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A couple of weeks back (on the evening of the SE Bass Bash) I managed to ding my fretted L2500 at the end of the evening. Put it down carefully in a quiet area of the venue, away from the pissed nutters, and turned round to get the case to put it away. Next thing I hear is a sickening thud, crash, twang and it had fallen on the stone floor and taken a chunk out of the top of the bass.

Luckily it's insured on the MU scheme and an email with photos sent on Sunday was responded to first thing Monday with a claim form to be returned with a quote for approval. Wifey took the bass over to the Eternal Guitars on Tuesday, Had the quote emailed back Wednesday evening after a quick exchange re options. Emailed both claim and estimate to the broker Thursday and had the approval to go ahead Friday.

Because it has a translucent top the options were:[list]
[*]fill and colour match, but the repair will show; or
[*]completely strip the top and refinish to her former glory.
[/list]
Funnily enough as I am not one for relicing I went for the latter, which was what the estimate was for, and looking back about half what I paid for the bass on here years ago, even if the insurance replacement value was more based on the price of a US L2500.

I suspect some will say "what are you worrying about it was a small(ish) knock and is just part of the life of a bass". Perhaps I am more OCD than I think I am, but while a minor knock I can probably live with this was a bit more. So photos of the damage:






#2 son was over with one of his guitars at Eternal's a couple of days ago and saw my baby, dare I say stripped, on the work bench so took a photo for me



So it's on its way back to full good health, but there's still a few weeks yet to allow the job to be finished, lacquer to fully dry etc. Also gives me a chance to properly date it from the stamps in the neck pocket.

More to follow as things progress

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My immediate thought too, that location is awkward and while a patch-up might be good enough it equally might not stay that way long term. As you have decent insurance and they are happy to have it restored, getting it back to "as new" seems the bestest of all possible options.

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[quote name='landwomble' timestamp='1476393549' post='3154004']
It'd piss me off too and I'd want to sort it properly. Never really thought about getting dings filled, how hard is it to do small dents in maple necks?
[/quote]

Depends on what the finish is. But normally easy if unfinished for someone in the know, who has had a bit of practice.

[quote name='MoonBassAlpha' timestamp='1476396782' post='3154046']
There are some cool tricks for streaming out small dents with a soldering iron and damp cloth. It can turn a fairly nasty dent into something barely noticeable. Check Youtube for tips and hints.
[/quote]

Only works for some finishes. If its lacquered it may or may not work and you can damage the finish. If its lacquered then its a bit harder to do you can use lacquer, superglue or fingernail varnish. This takes practice to get "right" where it really is as good as new.
If "unfinished" so to say or oiled its easier but if oiled you do sometimes need to re oil.

Get some wood and practice before hand.

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[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1476458614' post='3154545']
Depends on what the finish is. But normally easy if unfinished for someone in the know, who has had a bit of practice.



Only works for some finishes. If its lacquered it may or may not work and you can damage the finish. If its lacquered then its a bit harder to do you can use lacquer, superglue or fingernail varnish. This takes practice to get "right" where it really is as good as new.
If "unfinished" so to say or oiled its easier but if oiled you do sometimes need to re oil.

Get some wood and practice before hand.
[/quote]
Sadly true. "Sweating" out a dent works by soaking water into the grain of the wood and then expanding it with the heat. So, there's no way that's going to happen without removing a good chunk of lacquer.

Even on oiled, I always rub down and re-oil the finish. (My background on this is refinishing oak furniture professionally)

Edited by Grangur
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  • 2 months later...

[quote name='blue' timestamp='1482090037' post='3197577']
Word to the wise, your bass should go from your hands to the case.

No in-between stops.

Blue
[/quote]

I had to put it down to get the case. In the meantime I picked up a bombproof Status S1 with a graphite through neck to tide me over. It's beaten up and I don't need to worry abut it, but it sounds great and plays really easily :) (even if Iit makes me go <_< for spending on more expensive basses :lol: )

[quote name='Ghost_Bass' timestamp='1482145634' post='3197929']
Are they also fixing this crack in the side of the body?
[/quote]
Should be, yes. It's a complete refinish taking the top back & building up from bare wood. I'm pretty sure the crack was in the lacquer not the wood. We shall see...photos to follow

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[quote name='blue' timestamp='1482152789' post='3198024'] I should retract my post. I dropped my 1951 MIJ reissue Fender P Bass face down onto asphalt while standing in front of the case. No damage, a few small scratches. A set up and new strings and all is good. I was lucky. Blue [/quote]DOH!

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