Finished! And now for something completely different ...

[gelfin]

[quote name='3below' timestamp='1480195843' post='3182496']
Gelfin, your 'sketch;'powers are better than mine. My variant was totally enclosed inside the body with a second jack socket to the outside world. Sketches have been pmd to Andy.
[/quote]

Being totally enclosed would make it a bit difficult to switch on and off.

The Smoothound symbol on the transmitter is the switch.

Edited November 26, 2016 by gelfin

[3below]

[quote name='gelfin' timestamp='1480196000' post='3182498']
Being totally enclosed would make it a bit difficult to switch on and off.

The Smoothound symbol on the transmitter is the switch.
[/quote]

Design flaw on my part noted, I am not experienced in this 'new-fangled' wireless stuff. In my mind I had simply thought 'plug and play' doh!

[Andyjr1515]

[quote name='gelfin' timestamp='1480193857' post='3182476']
I was thinking of something like this. Forgive poor sketching.

A rout from the rear of the body (open to the rear). A Tele type socket which in this position would still be accessible for a normal jack lead.
So the SmoothHound would plug in from the edge rather than the rear surface.


[url="http://s970.photobucket.com/user/gelfin5959/media/SH%20position_zpsgc0nehoo.jpg.html"][/url]

[url="http://s970.photobucket.com/user/gelfin5959/media/SH%20p2_zpsssq7d8dn.jpg.html"][/url]
[/quote]

Hi, Nic

My assumption was probably correct that you would want direct access, although 3below's thoughts included an easy access hatch which is an interesting idea.

Following your sketch above, it can work - the Smoothhound is just about slim enough to ensure the top can retain the Mouradian tailstoch shape even though behind it it is cutaway. It would probably want to be the other way round and that then gets the jack in broadly the right place :


It is quite a long unit and, as you can see, passes the centre line by a cm or so. The tail button would therefore have to sit offset from centre, but with the length of top horn you have, this is unlikely to give you any problems with the hang on the strap so in my mind isn't a big issue.

I'll do a couple of mockups so we can see better which looks the least intrusive.

It's very much turning into the kind of project I like best

[gelfin]

Hi Andy

That's exactly what I meant.

Either way up is fine with me, so whatever is best for you to make. Having said that the way it is in the pic would make wiring easier.

Also I have no problem with having the button quite high.

Edited November 26, 2016 by gelfin

[3below]

The on/off issue with the fully enclosed design could be resolved by having a hole in the cover plate. The Mk1 finger could be inserted into the hole. Not elegant but it would retain the 'traditional' bass appearance. The 'slot in side' design will be ergonomically easier to use: strap bass on, reach and press on/off button. Developing this thought further (and helped by Andy's pictures), the unit could be fitted in the top /forearm section of the bass - like the tuner / eq units on electro-acoustic basses. Second jack socket fitted to body in usual place.

Edited November 26, 2016 by 3below

[gelfin]

I had thought of fully enclosed.


Chris from Smoothound offered to send (sell) me the bare electronics for this along with wiring diagrams and a surface mount momentary switch with status Led.
However I do prefer what Andy has illustrated, which is what I had in mind from the outset.

I made a similar recess for the jack socket on the twin neck version.

Having said all that I really do appreciate all input and suggestions / ideas etc.

Also I am beginning to feel like an expectant father to be. Just like when my kids were gestating.

[3below]

[quote name='gelfin' timestamp='1480200718' post='3182538']
I had thought of fully enclosed.


Chris from Smoothound offered to send (sell) me the bare electronics for this along with wiring diagrams and a surface mount momentary switch with status Led.
However I do prefer what Andy has illustrated, which is what I had in mind from the outset.

I made a similar recess for the jack socket on the twin neck version.

Having said all that I really do appreciate all input and suggestions / ideas etc.

Also I am beginning to feel like an expectant father to be. Just like when my kids were gestating.
[/quote]

Another great bass in inception. Thank you for appreciation, my life philosophy is 'more brains prevent mistakes'.... assuming we have people with brains I have valued input and suggestions in my bass build as well.

[W1_Pro]

Does having the wireless TX fully enclosed in the body of the bass have any effect on the range then?

[Andyjr1515]

[quote name='W1_Pro' timestamp='1480226307' post='3182603']
Does having the wireless TX fully enclosed in the body of the bass have any effect on the range then?
[/quote]
I'm not sure. As it happens, I think Nic's idea is going to work, in which case it will not be covered at the back or side. I think fully enclosed you would need to make sure there was no shielding in any of the chambers which might be an issue with some designs

[gelfin]

Another reason for not having the Smoothhound fully enclosed is that I often swap basses so it would be a bit difficult.
Also I want to be able to to use a conventional cable. I case of battery issues etc.

[Andyjr1515]

[quote name='gelfin' timestamp='1480278608' post='3183069']
Another reason for not having the Smoothhound fully enclosed is that I often swap basses so it would be a bit difficult.
Also I want to be able to to use a conventional cable. I case of battery issues etc.
[/quote]
Have checked the sizes and pretty sure your preferred solution is going to work, Nic.

I'll see if I can get the mockup finished tomorrow

[Andyjr1515]

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1480283753' post='3183125']
Have checked the sizes and pretty sure your preferred solution is going to work, Nic.

I'll see if I can get the mockup finished tomorrow
[/quote]

Yup - it works just fine. The real thing will be neater but looking from the front of the bass:



...and from the back:



and from the rear (the real one will be straight!)

[W1_Pro]

Ahhh, now I understand. ...
Thats a neat solution Andy.

[Andyjr1515]

[quote name='W1_Pro' timestamp='1480345444' post='3183548']
Ahhh, now I understand. ...
Thats a neat solution Andy.
[/quote]
Nic's inspiration

It might be just too hard and too tight dimensionally, but I'm going to see on my test piece if it's possible to rout in the middle of the joined pieces so the unit is actually hidden from obvious view front and back rather than hidden from the front but fully visible from the back. It might be just too tight but worth one more experiment . Whatever, we have a workable solution

[TheGreek]

I was showing a bass playing friend of mine through Andy's build today - he was extremely impressed. Hoping that he doesn't put in a build request before I sell my Ritter and place another order.

Keep up the great work Andy.

[Andyjr1515]

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1480353555' post='3183635']
I was showing a bass playing friend of mine through Andy's build today - he was extremely impressed. Hoping that he doesn't put in a build request before I sell my Ritter and place another order.

Keep up the great work Andy.
[/quote]
Thanks, Mick

[Andyjr1515]

The wings are going on!

First I have dry-clamped the top in its final position - clearly the wings, as they have been pre-cut need to be absolutely lined up with these. To stop the top inadvertently gluing itself on, I have covered it with cling film:




Then the first wing is clamped vertically down onto the top (which itself is on the level workbench) and horizontally to form a tight, gap-free glue joint with the neck:



While that's drying, I'm going to cut out a couple of 'swifts' which will act as the 12th-fret markers

As always, thanks for looking and for your encouragement

Edited December 1, 2016 by Andyjr1515

[Andyjr1515]

First back wing on, second one will be glued later today.

This view probably shows how and where the top will slot in. The end of the fretboard will be flush with the top.

[Andyjr1515]

Nic asked if it was possible to put some of my logo swifts onto the fretboard. However, we didn't want to go 'all PRS' on it, and decided that swifts on the 12th and dots on the others would be cool. I popped a couple of my swift paper templates on and laid some dots on to see if it was going to look alright :



I think that looks pretty cool

While the glue on the second back wing is curing, I'll get the jeweller's saw out and start a bit of pearl cutting!

[Andyjr1515]

For those of you who have seen my other builds, same MO - jeweller's saw and hi-tech MDF cutting rig :




...and that age-old question 'How many needle files does it take to change a light-bulb?':

[Andyjr1515]

I'm going to wait until I've got some better light before I start the delicate process of routing the fretboard to accept the two swifts. In the meantime, the back panels are stuck on well enough to handle. These are the main components of the build:




Before the top goes on, I will be routing the cable runs, weight-relieving chambers, etc, and then the top will go on like this, ready for the final body trimming and shaping:




Starting to look like a bass....

Edited December 1, 2016 by Andyjr1515

[FuNkShUi]

Looking good!
Love my swifts! They've had lots of positive comments

[Andyjr1515]

[quote name='FuNkShUi' timestamp='1480611866' post='3185866']
Looking good!
Love my swifts! They've had lots of positive comments
[/quote]
Thanks, Kert

[W1_Pro]

That fingerboard is going to look lovely with the swifts. Very tasteful Andy. Nice touch.

[Andyjr1515]

Out comes the Dremel and precision router base. I rough out with a 1.5mm bit and tidy up / get into the sharp ends with a 0.8mm.

Here it is at the roughed-out stage:


and ready to epoxy:



I had some cocobolo sanding dust I could mix into the epoxy as an invisible gap filler:


...and in they go. Even though it's 30min epoxy, I'll leave it until tomorrow before sanding down, otherwise it tends to clog up the sandpaper which could dig into the, essentially finish-sanded, fingerboard: