Geek99 Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 (edited) hi all can I have your thoughts on this? Its about a twelve string Tanglewood Oddyssey (bought off here). Its a narrowbody with a bowlback. It had an Artec APC Pro with a [u][b]solid[/b][/u] PP607 piezo in the bridge, 75 mm saddle with symmetrical min height of 4mm and rises to 6mm high at the centre, Width is 3mm. When I got it, the preamp didnt work, but since I had no need of it, I didnt pay too much attention. It sounds awesome acoustically. Fast forward and I find tuning it a pain; I wanted an onboard preamp with a tuner so after much searching for a narrow preamp I finally found that a Fishman Presys + would fit with a little chopping of the cutout. It comes with a mesh style piezo.I kept this as A) its hard wired into the preamp the existing piezo had a 3.5mm jack on and I didnt want to chop and join. Its fitted, it works and I threw the rubbish away, its was only when I went to retune it that I noticed the bass E strings were a bit low and buzzy,. two reasons 1. The mesh squashes, in a way that the solid preamp didnt so the saddle sits a little lower. 2. There is less bulk (no solid right angle) where the wire passes though into the bridge and so the saddle "wobbles" on the bass E position and sits lower as it tips slightly under the tension. I'm aware that the mesh style allows fuller contact between saddle and body and so has some advantages, Equally I need it to work. My thoughts are 1. buy another a solid piezo and join it (I foolishly threw the existing one not realising they cost about £13 2. get a taller saddle(possibly a compensated one) and sand it down. Issues - 1) most of the claimed bone ones seem actually to be plastic 2) I might cock it up ( any tricks tha tI can pickup) 3. Prop the saddle up with some match sticks and sand those down What do you recommend, folks ? Edited January 24, 2017 by Geek99 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoonBassAlpha Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 You could try a thin sliver of veneer the whole length of the saddle slot to restore the height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3below Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 [quote name='MoonBassAlpha' timestamp='1485266319' post='3222607'] You could try a thin sliver of veneer the whole length of the saddle slot to restore the height. [/quote] Variant on the above, thin strip of plastic e.g. microwave meal container. Plenty of hardish plastic readily available to experiment with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek99 Posted January 24, 2017 Author Share Posted January 24, 2017 all true, but I dont see how that helps the bridge wobbling on the softer mesh transducer. I can buy a cheapo solid piezo on amazon, can someone advise if I can just joint the cables ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoonBassAlpha Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 [quote name='Geek99' timestamp='1485267363' post='3222617'] all true, but I dont see how that helps the bridge wobbling on the softer mesh transducer. [/quote] I guess it depends on how deep the saddle slot is, but could you beef up the thickness of the saddle, say, with superglue, then rub it down to a good fit in the slot so it can't wobble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3below Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 [quote name='Geek99' timestamp='1485267363' post='3222617'] all true, but I dont see how that helps the bridge wobbling on the softer mesh transducer. I can buy a cheapo solid piezo on amazon, can someone advise if I can just joint the cables ? [/quote] Cables can be soldered together. I have used one of the cheapo piezos in an acoustic bass I have, it works well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek99 Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 (edited) [quote name='3below' timestamp='1485327671' post='3223076'] Cables can be soldered together. I have used one of the cheapo piezos in an acoustic bass I have, it works well. [/quote] Thank you I ordered a cheap one and will report back Does anyone have an opinion on bone nuts or compensated saddles ? Edit: I've ordered a cheapie compensated nut to try also Edited January 26, 2017 by Geek99 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek99 Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 [quote name='MoonBassAlpha' timestamp='1485299681' post='3223016'] I guess it depends on how deep the saddle slot is, but could you beef up the thickness of the saddle, say, with superglue, then rub it down to a good fit in the slot so it can't wobble. [/quote] Interesting idea but I think movement of the strings when tuned would eventually bust it loose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yorks5stringer Posted January 25, 2017 Share Posted January 25, 2017 Bone nuts are easy enough to make: go to the £1 shop, buy a dog bone, cut and shape! If you take too much off, do it again with another bit of bone, unless you are 'bone idle'! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek99 Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 Drum Roll please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek99 Posted January 28, 2017 Author Share Posted January 28, 2017 [quote name='Geek99' timestamp='1485331551' post='3223094'] Thank you I ordered a cheap one and will report back Does anyone have an opinion on bone nuts or compensated saddles ? Edit: I've ordered a cheapie compensated nut to try also [/quote] Annoyingly I found the original piezo on the gravel today while reroofing the shed - must have fallen from my pocket days ago Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geek99 Posted February 2, 2017 Author Share Posted February 2, 2017 ok - -its fitted and working You can join the piezo cables - its just a wire core and a earthing sleeve. I used a simple connector block from Wilkos. Rigid piezos are way better that the cable ones as shown in my picture - the saddle doesnt wobble. The new piezo is a bit taller than the original one but i used it since it looks more robust. This means the strings are a bit high. The onboard tuner is brilliant - works very well. I didnt use the compensated saddle in the end - i hadnt noticed that the saddle is seated at a slant and I think this may be good enough. issues remaining - the saddle sits high and will need to be sanded down by at least 1mm - probably more. Bit concerned that this will reduce the already slim break angle even further - pictures tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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