kevin_lindsay Posted January 27, 2017 Posted January 27, 2017 (edited) I've always loved the Blackguard Tele look. So, I made myself one. Bare swamp ash body having grain filler applied. [URL=http://s7.photobucket.com/user/kevin_lindsay/media/fender%20custom%20shop%20nocaster/FB_IMG_1483184931675.jpg.html][IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/fender%20custom%20shop%20nocaster/FB_IMG_1483184931675.jpg[/IMG][/URL] I used really straight grained, lightweight swamp ash to try a different make the instrument as resonant as possible. Next up was applying the translucent white blonde base coat. [URL=http://s7.photobucket.com/user/kevin_lindsay/media/fender%20custom%20shop%20nocaster/20161227_133721.jpg.html][IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/fender%20custom%20shop%20nocaster/20161227_133721.jpg[/IMG][/URL] I then applied a couple of light coats of butterscotch nitrocellulose lacquer, then a couple of light coats of clear gloss. I wanted the overall finish the best really thin in order to allow the wood to still resonate. I also applied a couple of light coats of clear gloss lacquer to the bare wood maple neck. The neck was then buffed to a shine. The pickguard is a fibreboard unit, which I sprayed with clear gloss lacquer. [URL=http://s7.photobucket.com/user/kevin_lindsay/media/fender%20custom%20shop%20nocaster/20170110_052854.jpg.html][IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/fender%20custom%20shop%20nocaster/20170110_052854.jpg[/IMG][/URL] I used a milled output jack cup to retain the period correct look. [URL=http://s7.photobucket.com/user/kevin_lindsay/media/fender%20custom%20shop%20nocaster/20170102_222941.jpg.html][IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/fender%20custom%20shop%20nocaster/20170102_222941.jpg[/IMG][/URL] I've always loved the crazing on nitrocellulose lacquer finishes. So, how can you replicate it? Simple, you just put his the body in the freezer overnight. Simply putting it in a fridge- even on its lowest temp.setting - won't be enough to induce the crazing. When you remove the body from the freezer, rub stain or dark shoe polish onto the body. This will stain the cracked lacquer lines [URL=http://s7.photobucket.com/user/kevin_lindsay/media/fender%20custom%20shop%20nocaster/20170110_052806.jpg.html][IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/fender%20custom%20shop%20nocaster/20170110_052806.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s7.photobucket.com/user/kevin_lindsay/media/fender%20custom%20shop%20nocaster/20170110_052824.jpg.html][IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/fender%20custom%20shop%20nocaster/20170110_052824.jpg[/IMG][/URL] I also applied a period correct decal on the headstock. [URL=http://s7.photobucket.com/user/kevin_lindsay/media/fender%20custom%20shop%20nocaster/20170110_052903.jpg.html][IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/fender%20custom%20shop%20nocaster/20170110_052903.jpg[/IMG][/URL] I also used shorter bridge height adjustment screws. This means the screws no longer protruding from the saddles. [URL=http://s7.photobucket.com/user/kevin_lindsay/media/fender%20custom%20shop%20nocaster/20170110_055743.jpg.html][IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/fender%20custom%20shop%20nocaster/20170110_055743.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Mh friend Chris Mcintyre assembled and set up the guitar. It plays and sounds great. [URL=http://s7.photobucket.com/user/kevin_lindsay/media/fender%20custom%20shop%20nocaster/20170109_174915.jpg.html][IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/fender%20custom%20shop%20nocaster/20170109_174915.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s7.photobucket.com/user/kevin_lindsay/media/fender%20custom%20shop%20nocaster/20170110_052754.jpg.html][IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/fender%20custom%20shop%20nocaster/20170110_052754.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s7.photobucket.com/user/kevin_lindsay/media/fender%20custom%20shop%20nocaster/20170109_175441.jpg.html][IMG]http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y289/kevin_lindsay/fender%20custom%20shop%20nocaster/20170109_175441.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Edited January 27, 2017 by kevin_lindsay
gary mac Posted January 27, 2017 Posted January 27, 2017 That looks great Kevin, love it. I've been contemplating a tele build for a while now, you might have just given me the inspiration to get cracking. Are you planning on ageing the hardware?
kevin_lindsay Posted January 28, 2017 Author Posted January 28, 2017 Thanks Gary. I'll let the hardware age through natural use (also, I don't know how to age it to make it look realistic anyhow! Hahaha) I'm also thinking of making a new guitar in the next few weeks - 2 tone, maple necked Strat for a vintage 50s look, but having Clapton boost circuitry inside for added versatility
gary mac Posted January 28, 2017 Posted January 28, 2017 I've have aged some hardware fairly successfully in the past. Not heavy relic though, more of a subtle rounding off of edges and a few little dinks. Let me know where the body was from, if you don't mind.
kevin_lindsay Posted January 28, 2017 Author Posted January 28, 2017 Phil at Guitarbuild made the body for me. Early 50s repro with the oversized neck pocket lip and the router hump in the lower cutaway.
gary mac Posted January 29, 2017 Posted January 29, 2017 [quote name='kevin_lindsay' timestamp='1485621356' post='3225397'] Phil at Guitarbuild made the body for me. Early 50s repro with the oversized neck pocket lip and the router hump in the lower cutaway. [/quote] Thanks Kevin. That paint job does look really good, I keep on revisiting your pics
kevin_lindsay Posted January 29, 2017 Author Posted January 29, 2017 (edited) I've posted on here about my previous builds / spray jobs. I did a Shell Pink P-Bass, a shell pink refinish on my Fender USA 62 reissue Jazz Bass, my Olympic White 62/66 Jazz Bass build, Andy Summers Tele tribute build, Surf Green refinish on my brown Fender Eric Johnson Strat. Edited January 29, 2017 by kevin_lindsay
Trueno Posted January 29, 2017 Posted January 29, 2017 I'm a bit of a sucker for teles. Very tasteful ageing and amazing attention to detail. Brilliant job.
kevin_lindsay Posted January 29, 2017 Author Posted January 29, 2017 (edited) Here's a ink to a previous build thread which has links to some of my other builds / refinish threads. http://basschat.co.uk/topic/194340-6-string-andy-summers-telecaster-guitar-project/page__fromsearch__1 a.d here's a link to the build thread for my Olympic White Jazz Bass build http://basschat.co.uk/topic/217598-olympic-white-6662-style-jazz-bass-build/page__fromsearch__1 Edited January 29, 2017 by kevin_lindsay
Happy Jack Posted January 31, 2017 Posted January 31, 2017 That's a lovely piece of work, and the cracking of the nitrocellulose is simply lush.
skankdelvar Posted January 31, 2017 Posted January 31, 2017 Lovely work, Sir. And very tasteful ageing.
teleman Posted February 7, 2017 Posted February 7, 2017 That is a beauty, you couldn't have picked a better colour combination. Well done.
Dan_Q Posted February 9, 2017 Posted February 9, 2017 very nice indeed. well done! good inspiration for my tele
kevin_lindsay Posted April 13, 2017 Author Posted April 13, 2017 Thanks for the positive comments everyone. The rest of the instrument specs are: Neck - 50s soft "V" shape. Full depth (0.9 at the first fret, increasing to .975 at the 12th fret. Although it's fairly large, it feels slim due to the lack of "shoulder" in the profile when you hold it, due to the V shape) with vintage 7.25" radius fingerboard. Gotoh vintage spec tuners. Slot head hardware mounting screws throughout. Round string retainer for a period correct early 50s Blackguard look. Bone nut Period correct early 50s Telecaster decal. Nitrocellulose lacquer throughout. Plain neck plate as per original Blackguard Teles. Fibreboard pickguard - sprayed with nitrocellulose lacquer. This was done while resting on a paint can to obtain the classic vintage "halo" on the underside. Pickups are Fender Custom Shop "Twisted Tele" set - as used by Fender on their current Nocaster instruments. Vintage spec bridge plate. Compensated bridge saddles with shortened height adjustment screws on the outer edges - to avoid the usual sharp screws digging into your hand when damping at the bridge. "Greasebucket" tone control wiring - this retains the same output level when you roll off the treble. CTS pots, CRL 3 way selector switch, and Switchcraft output jack. Milled output jack cup. Flush rear string ferrules.
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