stevie Posted April 13, 2019 Author Share Posted April 13, 2019 (edited) The final vertical braces simply slot into place. Is this easy, or what? Edited April 13, 2019 by stevie 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie Posted April 13, 2019 Author Share Posted April 13, 2019 (edited) The last thing you'll need to do is to fit the input panel at the top of the back panel. It is simply glued into a rebate provided. Unfortunately, my CNC specialist wasn't able to cut the hole out in time for the Bass Bash - so you'll just have to imagine it. All future cabs will have the back panel routed out to take an input panel with two Speakons. While you're waiting for the glue to dry, you can carry out some of the smaller jobs. This is the support piece for the top panel. It has two functions: it braces the top panel to reduce vibrations and it strengthens the connection with the handle. Edited April 13, 2019 by stevie 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie Posted April 13, 2019 Author Share Posted April 13, 2019 (edited) Same with the bottom panel. We're using the piece of plywood from the top handle cutout to strengthen and stiffen the bottom panel. Waste not want not, as my old grandad used to say. Just glue it into place. You can put a weight on it if you like. The bottom panel is the least critical in terms of damping. So this works perfectly well. Edited April 14, 2019 by stevie 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pea Turgh Posted April 13, 2019 Share Posted April 13, 2019 Gutted I missed this at the bash. I love speakers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie Posted April 13, 2019 Author Share Posted April 13, 2019 Me too!😀 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie Posted April 13, 2019 Author Share Posted April 13, 2019 Finally, the front panel. Here is the brace that strengthens the section of baffle between the horn and the port. Very important. Glue the recess and tap it into place. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie Posted April 13, 2019 Author Share Posted April 13, 2019 (edited) If you're going to fit t-nuts, now is the time to do it. Also, be sure to cut and fit the port now. You can do it later, but it's a tight fit and a lot easier to tap in from the back of the baffle. When I did my resonance testing to decide on the bracing layout, it was clear that the baffle was by far the worst offender for spurious resonances. So you'll notice that the baffle is braced at the top, in the centre, and at both sides of the driver opening. This bracing structure is also firmly attached to the sides and back of the cab, which is how it should be done. Edited April 14, 2019 by stevie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie Posted April 13, 2019 Author Share Posted April 13, 2019 (edited) The back panel should be set now and we can add one of the side panels. Again, notice how it's fully rebated so that it easily locks into place. Edited April 14, 2019 by stevie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie Posted April 13, 2019 Author Share Posted April 13, 2019 Here's what it looks like fitted. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie Posted April 13, 2019 Author Share Posted April 13, 2019 This is the kind of fit you are looking for. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie Posted April 13, 2019 Author Share Posted April 13, 2019 (edited) Don't hesitate to use your clamps to pull the panels together if necessary. As in the photo. You may not need them now - it's pot luck really. But just be aware that using the clamps is the easiest way of making sure that the panels fit perfectly. Edited April 13, 2019 by stevie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie Posted April 13, 2019 Author Share Posted April 13, 2019 (edited) Once the glue in the side panel has set, fit the baffle by tapping it into place with your hammer. Edited April 14, 2019 by stevie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie Posted April 13, 2019 Author Share Posted April 13, 2019 It should fit like this. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie Posted April 13, 2019 Author Share Posted April 13, 2019 (edited) Any bending of the plywood can be sorted by using a clamp. Here's an example. Edited April 14, 2019 by stevie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie Posted April 13, 2019 Author Share Posted April 13, 2019 (edited) OK. We're half way there and your box is looking like this. Time for a coffee perhaps while the glue sets. Edited April 13, 2019 by stevie 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie Posted April 14, 2019 Author Share Posted April 14, 2019 Now for the second side panel. Here's a view showing the CNC'd rebates that help everything slot together. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie Posted April 14, 2019 Author Share Posted April 14, 2019 Second side panel fitted. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie Posted April 14, 2019 Author Share Posted April 14, 2019 (edited) Just top and bottom to fit now. This is when you are most likely to need your clamps. Here's an illustration. Although you're unlikely to have to do this, the clamps make it easy to get adjoining panels perfectly flush. You'll appreciate this when you come to paint the cab. Edited April 14, 2019 by stevie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie Posted April 14, 2019 Author Share Posted April 14, 2019 Once the glue has set, turn the cab over and fit the bottom. Same procedure. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie Posted April 14, 2019 Author Share Posted April 14, 2019 (edited) You can now put a few screws in the handle to make it easier to move around. Marvel at how light it is. 😀 Finishing and fitting out is next. This is no more difficult than assembling the box. I'll post a guide on fitting out in a few weeks' time. Edited April 14, 2019 by stevie 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olipaulo Posted April 14, 2019 Share Posted April 14, 2019 This is lovely, Steve! What a delight to see these photos, and to realize how simple you have made this! And what a surprise to listen to it in the bass bash! Real monster! Congratulations! 👏👏👏 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie Posted April 14, 2019 Author Share Posted April 14, 2019 (edited) FAQ Do I have to use the horn/compression driver? No. The Faital Pro driver extends quite high and is perfectly usable without a tweeter. Simply blank off the cutout for the horn. Use the four screw holes provided and seal the blanking piece with foam (rather than glue). You'll then be able to fit a horn later is you wish. I have a spare 12" driver available. Can I use it in this cab? Although the cab was designed with specific drivers in mind, any 12" speaker described as a "bass guitar speaker" will be good - with or without the horn. Optimum performance is with the specified drivers for obviousl reasons. However, please note that you cannot fit any other compression driver. Is this an FRFR cab? Yes. Use in place of any other FRFR cab. This one has been designed specifically for bass. It will work just as well with a regular bass amp. Two for the price of one. Can I fit a cloth grille? Sure. There is space for a 15mm picture frame batten to fit the grille material of your choice. What finish do you recommend? The easiest finishing option is Tuffcab paint. However, carpet also is fairly easy to fit if you prefer that finish. It's difficult for an amateur to get a good finish with Tolex. Where can I obtain the parts I need? Most of the parts, apart from the compression driver, are available from Blue Aran, including handles, corners, etc. As they don't carry Celestion, you'll have to get the compression driver from Lean. There are a couple of Ebay sellers for some of the components that I'll list in a parts list later. How much is this CNC cab to buy? If we place an order for ten, the cost is £80. Slighty more than half of this is CNC machine time. I've already paid for eight hours of CNC programming, which you can now benefit from. And the crossover? It depends on what components you'd like. To help get some of these cabs out into the real world, I'm prepared to assemble ten crossovers for the cost of the components. The audiophile-type capacitors shown on the previous page are quite pricey. Total component cost is over £50. However, using cheaper but still good capacitors would bring the cost down to half that. I'll include a pair of Speakons and a set of connecting cables with crimped connectors. You'll therefore be able to fit the crossover without having to solder - just push the crimped connectors onto the Speakons and drivers and screw the wires into the connector strip on the crossover board. Any future plans for this design? There will be a complementary cab fitted with a bass driver and crossover for anyone who wants a 2 x 12" configuration. Possibly an Eminence 3012LF (which I already have) or a second Faital. John (Chienmortbb) is looking at the possibility of fitting an ICEPower amp inside the cab to make it active. That's it really. [I'll probably come back and add to this FAQ at a later stage] Edited April 14, 2019 by stevie 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie Posted April 14, 2019 Author Share Posted April 14, 2019 29 minutes ago, olipaulo said: This is lovely, Steve! What a delight to see these photos, and to realize how simple you have made this! And what a surprise to listen to it in the bass bash! Real monster! Congratulations! 👏👏👏 Coming from a Fearless owner, that means a lot. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
funkle Posted April 14, 2019 Share Posted April 14, 2019 (edited) Shut up and take my money! 😂 The pics look great. This is a tremendous effort. I’m ready to order already...can’t wait to try it out/build it. At one point or another, I’ve owned or trialled some of the best cabs/combos around...Fearless F112, Barefaced BB2, Acme B1 and B2, Vanderkley MNT112, Bergantino CN112 and the IP112ER, the AER Amp One and Three...however what I really like the idea of is rolling your own cab at big discount from the others, but still having the performance of the big boys. Pete Edited April 14, 2019 by funkle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted April 14, 2019 Share Posted April 14, 2019 That is a top piece of work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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