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12" Cab Diary Continued


stevie

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48 minutes ago, Phil Starr said:

Expect a rash of people searching your posts to see what that was :)

 

I won't name names, but I bought it second hand from a chap who ordered two and only needed one.

It made my eyes water at a secondhand price, let alone the list price! 

Yep it's light and yep is loud, but the bass chat design is far more pleasing. 

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23 hours ago, chyc said:

@GlamBass74If you could report back how you get on with the grille I'd be very interested. The instructions say you contact an eBay seller, to get something relisted on eBay if it's missing (which it is). Blue Aran lists grilles but they're out of stock. In the end for my current build of the BC110T I went with a circular disc grille. Hella ugly (IMO) but cheap and easy to buy.

 

Saying all that, if you know somewhere where I can get a proper BC112T grille.......

I've used this supplier for a couple of projects and been happy with the service and the quality of the products.

http://www.speakergrills.co.uk

One point worth mentioning is that it will probably be cheaper to get Mark to powder-coat the grill than to paint it yourself. Priming, undercoating and top-coating a surface that is 60% fresh air means that you spray a lot of paint onto the backing news-sheet or whatever.

David

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Boom.

 

Mesh stapled onto frame.

 

One thing I have noticed.... A really nasty resonance from the plastic horn when I'm giving it some Welly.

 

14th fret on G string. If I put fingers on the horn (oo er) then it stops.

 

I'll try some more sealing tape behind it. 

 

Piping to go and a retaining method for the grille and I'm done! 

 

Music through these cabs sounds LUSH.

 

Wish I hadn't chopped up the other pre cut panels I had in the garage to make a couple of 1 x 10's ☹️ 

 

I'm thinking a pole mount could be a good move! 

 

I'll shut up now 😂

 

 

 

 

16645599699473216229730919412645.jpg

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There's quite a large contact area between the horn and the baffle, which is probably where the vibration is coming from. Use several strips of foam sealing gasket and you should be OK.

 

Velcro is the usual way of attaching that kind of grille.

 

A fabric grille like that one is probably the best solution for DIY builders. There are plenty of suitable grill cloth fabrics available.

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  • 5 weeks later...

Trying to join the illustrious BC112mk3 club. Panels cut and some glued together.

 

photo_5978757620820982290_y.thumb.jpg.2606f8c8ab24860d26da4848fb5f1b1a.jpg

 

I actually enjoyed cutting the brace around the handle.photo_5978757620820982294_y.thumb.jpg.56267e644552bce58ae5ea40b64a9d32.jpg

photo_5978757620820982293_y.thumb.jpg.96a6a050e2783e605b040b429b3aecd0.jpg

 

Now just a case of plucking up the courage to cut those braces. Eek. I did try to experiment with nice corner cuts with the rear connector panel:

photo_5978757620820982291_y.thumb.jpg.8e6fb3eb787845da8bbe34c89f395995.jpg

 

 

One thing that I don't understand with the instructions is what it's asking for with a recessed panel. Is that required? What does it look like?

 

Edited by chyc
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How do I put the front baffle in and maintain an airtight seal? It was easy for the BC110T what with the brace all around the edge, but here there isn't that luxury. I have some clamps but I don't think anything appropriate to clamp down on all four sides while keeping it recessed and snug against the braces.

 

I assume that this is a glue job in which case the box is essentially permanently sealed and interior access thereafter is through the woofer hole. Have I misunderstood the plans?

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Yes, the cab is permanently sealed after it has been assembled. Access is quite easy through the driver holes.

 

See if you can find the thread on here where Funkle assembles the kit cab. That might help. You need to assemble the panels in the following order: back panel and braces (use a set square or similar to make sure the braces are at right angles). Then glue one side. Then the bottom. *Then the baffle.* Then the second side, and finally the top. If the panels have been cut accurately, all the joins should be air tight as long as you use plenty of glue. You could also use polyurethane glue if the cuts are iffy, as that expands to fill gaps.

 

If you're short of braces, use screws to hold the panels in place while the glue dries. Remove the screws, (if you want) and fill the holes afterwards. 

Edited by stevie
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  • 1 month later...

I have an empty MK3 cabinet that I need to move on. It has served me well for several years, but I now have one of @stevie's LFSys Silverstone. I will put it up for sale in the Amps and Cabs for sale shortly. It has no drivers, but it does have the crossover and the PH170 horn, as well as a punched aluminium grille.  It just needs a Faital Pro 12PR320 12" driver and a Celestion CDX1-1425 compression driver. I will post a link to it as soon as it is up on the for sale area.

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1 hour ago, Chienmortbb said:

I have an empty MK3 cabinet that I need to move on. It has served me well for several years, but I now have one of @stevie's LFSys Silverstone. I will put it up for sale in the Amps and Cabs for sale shortly. It has no drivers, but it does have the crossover and the PH170 horn, as well as a punched aluminium grille.  It just needs a Faital Pro 12PR320 12" driver and a Celestion CDX1-1425 compression driver. I will post a link to it as soon as it is up on the for sale area.

Is this one of the first batch of Kits that Stevie had made?

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been asked regularly if I could supply ready-built crossovers for the BCIII and have always had to say no. The original hard-wired crossovers I supplied with the kits took me about half a day to build, and I don't have that many half-days available any more. The good news is that I've now invested in high-quality fibreglass PCBs for use in my LFSys cabs that can be repurposed for the BCIII design. So, if you have the woodworking skills to build a BCIII and would like me to supply a ready-to-install crossover, just send me a PM.

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21 hours ago, stevie said:

I've been asked regularly if I could supply ready-built crossovers for the BCIII and have always had to say no. The original hard-wired crossovers I supplied with the kits took me about half a day to build, and I don't have that many half-days available any more. The good news is that I've now invested in high-quality fibreglass PCBs for use in my LFSys cabs that can be repurposed for the BCIII design. So, if you have the woodworking skills to build a BCIII and would like me to supply a ready-to-install crossover, just send me a PM.

You can see by how many 'likes' this post has that this is the key to unlocking this design for most people. That crossover is a pretty scary thing for people who have never soldered before.

 

This is a great sounding cab, beating pretty much any commercial 1x12T and if this gives a few more bassists access to the top level of equipment then that's a great thing to do,

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 30/09/2022 at 18:53, GlamBass74 said:

 

 

Music through these cabs sounds LUSH.

 

I'll shut up now 😂

 

Any chance or writing a sonic review of your excellent handywork ?

How does it sound compared to other cabs you have used?

What are disadvantages of the BC112 compared to the LFSys Monaco you demo'd?

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  • 1 month later...

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