Shambo Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 (edited) So, after my bellyaching about not being able to find a natural precision, I figured I'd build a precision from bits instead. It started with spotting an alder body on eBay with a nice grain, (apart from a splodge which will be mostly hidden behind the pickguard. 2.48kg, two pieces. [url="http://s756.photobucket.com/user/Shambo/media/Natural%20Bitsa%20Precision%20Build/IMG_2098.jpg.html"][/url] [url="http://s756.photobucket.com/user/Shambo/media/Natural%20Bitsa%20Precision%20Build/IMG_2099.jpg.html"][/url] Edited February 1, 2017 by Shambo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shambo Posted February 1, 2017 Author Share Posted February 1, 2017 (edited) I've been acquiring bits over the last few weeks and, what with my purchase of a Mex Fender neck last night, and the imminent arrival of some clear nitro spray today, I thought I'd better crack on. As I wait for the delivery man, I'm giving the body another sanding and wondering, is it the done thing to drill holes, (for the Gotoh bridge and such), before the first application of lacquer or drill when its finished? I've got the drill out to make holes in the stick I'm attaching to the neck pocket whilst do the finishing and resisting the urge. Edited February 1, 2017 by Shambo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shambo Posted February 1, 2017 Author Share Posted February 1, 2017 ... and by urge to drill the holes for the straplocks and bridge have been assuaged by the realisation that my thinnest wood drill bit is a chunky 4mm. That's fine for the paint stick which I'll temporarily attach with some nuts & bolts, (which are also too fat for the neck holes so it's off to the hardware store I go). The nitro just arrived, minus the fine wet & dry sandpaper I ordered from the same supplier. Hopefully that'll turn up in the mail soon. [URL=http://s756.photobucket.com/user/Shambo/media/Natural%20Bitsa%20Precision%20Build/IMG_2100.jpg.html][IMG]http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx208/Shambo/Natural%20Bitsa%20Precision%20Build/IMG_2100.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shambo Posted February 1, 2017 Author Share Posted February 1, 2017 (edited) Seems I've got the camera out, here's some of the other parts I've acquired: Schaller straplocks bought off the forum 2nd hand Gotoh 203 bridge new off Ebay Pickguard & screws off Ebay Ki0gon loom bought off the very man from this forum I purchased a generic p-bass pickup off Ebay which is winging it's way from China for the princely sum of £3.05 inc postage. This is a placeholder whilst I wait for something better to appear second hand. Neck and tuners bought last night are in the post. All that's missing is a neckplate and screws. [url="http://s756.photobucket.com/user/Shambo/media/Natural%20Bitsa%20Precision%20Build/IMG_2101.jpg.html"][/url] Edited February 1, 2017 by Shambo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JPJ Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 Without wishing to sound negative, I'd recommend a good quality filter face mask with the right filters for nitro, and spraying in a well ventilated space. In my experience, nitro is also pretty temperature sensitive and if it gets too cold whilst still flashing off it can go milky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 (edited) I'd drill before the lacquer so you can check everything fits while "dry". I think you need to invest in a set of drill bits. Good luck Edit: And measure twice, three times before you drill Edited February 1, 2017 by Norris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jabba_the_gut Posted February 1, 2017 Share Posted February 1, 2017 Good advice from both JPJ and Norris!! You can never measure enough times.... Looks like it should be a nice build. There's a Bartolini p bass pup in the for sale section if that's the sort of thing you're looking for. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shambo Posted February 1, 2017 Author Share Posted February 1, 2017 (edited) [quote name='JPJ' timestamp='1485984751' post='3228342'] Without wishing to sound negative, I'd recommend a good quality filter face mask with the right filters for nitro, and spraying in a well ventilated space. In my experience, nitro is also pretty temperature sensitive and if it gets too cold whilst still flashing off it can go milky. [/quote] Not negative at all. I've already got the face mask and was planning to spray in my back yard... when this interminable Plymouth rain lets up. [quote name='Norris' timestamp='1485986691' post='3228375'] I'd drill before the lacquer so you can check everything fits while "dry". I think you need to invest in a set of drill bits. Good luck Edit: And measure twice, three times before you drill [/quote] Yes, good point about the dry run. I've been out and bought some 2mm &1.5mm drill bits. I do have a reasonably good toolbox already and I like making things. Most recently it's been scale models for my architecture degree. [quote name='Jabba_the_gut' timestamp='1485987749' post='3228389'] Good advice from both JPJ and Norris!! You can never measure enough times.... Looks like it should be a nice build. There's a Bartolini p bass pup in the for sale section if that's the sort of thing you're looking for. Cheers [/quote] Thanks, I just noticed the bart pup, I've been checking the 'other musical' forum every few hours for juicy second hand bits... for the last couple of months. I have no idea about Bartolini's though. Never tried them and never heard them. They don't look very traditional though and this is a very boring traditional first build. I'll do some research and have a think. I'm intrigued to hear how my £3.05 pickup is going to sound. So I gave the body a 400 grit sanding today and it was very revealing to me. Last week I was timber framing a small outhouse so I didn't really get the chance to be so up close and involved with things like wood grain. I was happy to go with the alder body because I'd read that the tight grain wouldn't need filling before spraying. As I began sanding, the more I noticed the imperfections in the wood... still a tight grain but there's one particular area that isn't going marble smooth, in the forearm cutout the grain is very prominent and I'm considering buying some grain filler... or not, just or the learning experience. [url="http://s756.photobucket.com/user/Shambo/media/Natural%20Bitsa%20Precision%20Build/IMG_2103.jpg.html"][/url] But for the most part it's coming up a treat. [url="http://s756.photobucket.com/user/Shambo/media/Natural%20Bitsa%20Precision%20Build/IMG_2102.jpg.html"][/url] Any and all constructive input is welcomed. Edited February 1, 2017 by Shambo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shambo Posted February 4, 2017 Author Share Posted February 4, 2017 Some more 2nd hand parts turned up courtesy of the good sellers of Basschat; a whole set of 2014 Fender USA Standard pups and loom and a 2014 Mex neck and tuners. I really wanted a maple neck but they are in short supply here in the UK, (£250 for a new Mex one and I couldn't find any after-market finished ones in stock). Anybody reading this who has a maple boarded Fender P neck stashed unloved in a cupboard could drop me a PM for a sale or trade maybe. The Ki0gon loom won't go into this build now, but go into my 50's CV Precision instead. Everything lined up nicely so I drilled for the straplocks and bridge. I'll leave the pickguard holes until I can fit the neck and make any minor adjustments, (neckplate and screws are in the post and should turn up next week whilst I'm out of town). The bit of white tape on the bit is the depth I drilled to. [url="http://s756.photobucket.com/user/Shambo/media/Natural%20Bitsa%20Precision%20Build/IMG_2247.jpg.html"][/url] I moved back to 240 grit for some sanding, especially on the forearm cut-out, and thought it wouldn't do any harm to go over the whole body again. Then I moved back to the 400 grit and went over the whole body again. It was finished marble like in texture but I don't know if it was enough, I can still see imperfections in the grain close up. It's a learning experience though and a bit of fun. [url="http://s756.photobucket.com/user/Shambo/media/Natural%20Bitsa%20Precision%20Build/IMG_2248.jpg.html"][/url] As I'm going to be away in Turin all next week, I was keen to give it a first coat of lacquer. I set up this not entirely satisfactory jig to hold the body whilst I sprayed, but it made it difficult to get between the horns. Not the end of the world, I'll be sanding it between coats. Next time I shall simply hang it from the washing line with a bit of strong garden wire whilst I spray. [url="http://s756.photobucket.com/user/Shambo/media/Natural%20Bitsa%20Precision%20Build/IMG_2249.jpg.html"][/url] I would have liked to have given it another coat before the end of today but it's started to rain a little in Plymouth... unsurprisingly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grangur Posted February 4, 2017 Share Posted February 4, 2017 (edited) That's looking nice. The nitro is giving the grain a good look. Don't rush it though. Wait for the nitro to dry fully. If there are any "nibby" bits in the nitro finish, don't rush to rub it down. When it's dry, rub it using the back of the glasspaper - the paper side. On rubbing down generally 400 grit is medium grit. That will still leave a woolly feel to the surface. 600 is easy enough to get and that's still quite coarse. When working as a pro-sprayer we used to go down to 3500 grit. You'll struggle to find that, but 1000 or 2500 is available. Good luck though, it's all looking good. Edited February 4, 2017 by Grangur Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shambo Posted February 12, 2017 Author Share Posted February 12, 2017 [quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1486221603' post='3230146'] That's looking nice. The nitro is giving the grain a good look. Don't rush it though. Wait for the nitro to dry fully. If there are any "nibby" bits in the nitro finish, don't rush to rub it down. When it's dry, rub it using the back of the glasspaper - the paper side. On rubbing down generally 400 grit is medium grit. That will still leave a woolly feel to the surface. 600 is easy enough to get and that's still quite coarse. When working as a pro-sprayer we used to go down to 3500 grit. You'll struggle to find that, but 1000 or 2500 is available. Good luck though, it's all looking good. [/quote] Thanks Grangur. Just got back from a week out of town and I've put on a fourth coat. [url="http://s756.photobucket.com/user/Shambo/media/Natural%20Bitsa%20Precision%20Build/IMG_2781.jpg.html"][/url] [url="http://s756.photobucket.com/user/Shambo/media/Natural%20Bitsa%20Precision%20Build/IMG_2783.jpg.html"][/url] Hanging it on the line for the spraying makes life much simpler. Then it comes inside. Another coat tomorrow and my neck plate turned up while I was away. [url="http://s756.photobucket.com/user/Shambo/media/Natural%20Bitsa%20Precision%20Build/IMG_2784.jpg.html"][/url] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykesbass Posted February 12, 2017 Share Posted February 12, 2017 Funny how colours go in and out of fashion - natural (at least Fender style) basses are a bit like white cars were 10 years ago. Coming along nicely, and ahead of the crowd!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shambo Posted February 13, 2017 Author Share Posted February 13, 2017 [quote name='Mykesbass' timestamp='1486928617' post='3235660'] Funny how colours go in and out of fashion - natural (at least Fender style) basses are a bit like white cars were 10 years ago. Coming along nicely, and ahead of the crowd!! [/quote] Thanks Mykesbass. I nearly bought your Seafoam Green bitsa, until I decided to DIY. Another coat of lacquer has gone on today but no photo's because it looks exactly the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mykesbass Posted February 13, 2017 Share Posted February 13, 2017 [quote name='Shambo' timestamp='1486991810' post='3236050'] Thanks Mykesbass. I nearly bought your Seafoam Green bitsa, [/quote] Actually, they might be a good source for your maple neck - build your own guitar, US website, but great delivery and decent price for a Fender Licensed neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shambo Posted February 18, 2017 Author Share Posted February 18, 2017 (edited) So, earlier in the week I noticed I was reaching the end of my spray can. The propellant was running out and not giving me the coverage I was getting in the beginning. With about a fifth of the can left I decided to call time on the lacquering. I forget how many coats it had... approximately eight. I left it in a warm dry place for four days. [url="http://s756.photobucket.com/user/Shambo/media/Natural%20Bitsa%20Precision%20Build/WP_20170215_13_04_19_Pro.jpg.html"][/url] I gave it a gentle rub down with 2000 grit wet and dry, removing the orange peel texture, then hoovered and wiped it over with a cloth. At this point it had an even, smooth but matt finish. My original intention was to take it into my university woodworking studios and avail myself of their buffing machine. When I got there I was informed they had to get rid of it a couple of years ago due to health and safety issues with regards the microfibres it gave off during use. Time for Plan B. [url="http://s756.photobucket.com/user/Shambo/media/Natural%20Bitsa%20Precision%20Build/WP_20170215_13_15_25_Pro.jpg.html"][/url] Then I understood the comments about the fibres from the buffing. Note to self to do any more buffing outside. Edited February 18, 2017 by Shambo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shambo Posted February 18, 2017 Author Share Posted February 18, 2017 (edited) I'd purchased a whole loom and American pups second hand but disappointingly the cavity in the body was too small for the brass ground plate attached. Also you'll note there's no routing between the pup and control cavities so I had to de solder the pups from the plate and loom for fitting. I used up some leftover copper tape (from an earlier shielding) and lined the cavities. The bridge had to be fitted twice because the first time I forgot to thread the earth wire through... schoolboy stuff. [url="http://s756.photobucket.com/user/Shambo/media/Natural%20Bitsa%20Precision%20Build/WP_20170215_14_33_43_Pro.jpg.html"][/url] Edited February 18, 2017 by Shambo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shambo Posted February 18, 2017 Author Share Posted February 18, 2017 (edited) And this morning I was rewarded with the fruits of my labour. Besides a little head scratching over the electrics; when a bare connector on the jack socket was touching the copper shielding resulting in silence, fixed by reorientating the jack socket, it was pretty straightforward stuff. The neck fits extremely snugly, everything lines up perfectly and it's now strung with Labella flats. [url="http://s756.photobucket.com/user/Shambo/media/Natural%20Bitsa%20Precision%20Build/WP_20170218_12_16_35_Pro.jpg.html"][/url] I always wondered about why people wax lyrical so about nitro finishes but it felt, or I thought it did, like a very resonant piece of wood. More so than most basses I've ever played that have been sealed in poly and can sometimes feel a little lifeless. I've tuned it up and lowered the action, (which seems pretty high), but I'm going to leave it to acclimatise to its new strings for a few days before setting it up better. [url="http://s756.photobucket.com/user/Shambo/media/Natural%20Bitsa%20Precision%20Build/WP_20170218_12_31_06_Pro.jpg.html"][/url] So in conclusion, a pretty straightforward project. The finish I'm sure I could get better next time around but it's pretty good for a first go. I've paid for furniture with a worse finish. It might be a thin lacquer but I'm looking forward to spending a few years not being too precious about it and giving it a real road worn finish. All in it cost me about £400 quid. [url="http://s756.photobucket.com/user/Shambo/media/Natural%20Bitsa%20Precision%20Build/WP_20170218_12_30_26_Pro.jpg.html"][/url] I can safely declare myself OK for precision basses at this time. Edited August 17, 2017 by Shambo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Lovely job. Top marks - well done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shambo Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1487890307' post='3244030'] Lovely job. Top marks - well done [/quote] Thank you. It's given me the desire to try something more demanding. Its nice to work with your hands and I spend too long tied to a computer screen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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