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Radiused vs flatter fingerboards? Pros and cons...


Greg.Bassman
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[size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color=#000000]Hi all. Been geeking out on this sort of stuff lately. [/color][/font][/size][size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color=#000000]Like most, it[/color][color=#000000]’s obviously a very subjective thing; that will differ from player to player. [/color][/font][/size]

[size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color=#000000]Preferences aside though, I just wondered if there were any [i]common[/i] points to consider when opting for either one? For example, I have read that amongst players, a radiused board (typically 7.25", 9.5" etc) is preferred for chordal work, whereas a flatter board (say, 16” onwards) is preferred for string bending. [/color][/font][/size][size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color=#000000]What are some other pro’s and con’s (if any) for each?[/color][/font][/size]

P.S - Sorry if 'radiused' is not a real word. I think you get the idea though lol.

Edited by Greg.Bassman
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I only really noticed how flat my board is (been playing it for 5 years) when I was struggling with some changes across the strings. Just struck me Tha a little bit more of a curve may have helped. Got the line now, and again not really noticing how flat the board is.

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I'm not sure it's as simple as a single parameter. Other fretboard dimensions will interact to influence the overall feel of the neck. Fender use (I think) a 9.5" radius on their modern instruments, but if you play a Jazz the neck is narrow at the nut so the amount of curvature feels less than you would expect - at least at the bottom of the neck. I swap between a Jazz (1 1/2, 9.5") and a Stingray (1 5/8, 11.5"??) and TBH, the radius change just isn't something I particularly notice. Certainly its less obvious than the offset of the neck (position of Fret 1 vs. wrist angle) and nut width.

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[quote name='dannybuoy' timestamp='1486368605' post='3231067']
I prefer a flat board for chords too!
[/quote]

[quote name='Chienmortbb' timestamp='1486373812' post='3231112']
I think a flatter board helps chords
[/quote]

Interesting. Maybe the 'radiused/chordal' thing is more to do with guitarists then. It's just something that I read on google ;)

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[size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color=#000000]C[/color][color=#000000]hecking out a few threads here[/color][color=#000000] and there,[/color][color=#000000] there seems to be a consensus[/color] [color=#000000]with [/color][color=#000000]flatter-board (sometimes absolutely flat) [/color][color=#000000]users[/color][color=#000000], [/color][color=#000000]that they really enjoy them[/color][color=#000000]; [/color][color=#000000]many 'flat fingerboard converts' noting[/color][color=#000000] the increased comfort and dexterity- presumably, because of the lower action achieved and string-string evenness[/color][color=#000000]?[/color][/font][/size]

[size=4][font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif][color=#000000]Does this ring true with any of you bass chatters out there?[/color][/font][/size]

Edited by Greg.Bassman
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I'm not sure you'll get a meaningful consensus to a question like this - lots of opinions maybe, which may or may not match your own iwhen you try them for yourself!

For what it's worth, my basses have radii (?) ranging from vintage 7.25" through 10", 16" and 20" to completely flat (ACG, Prose). The ACG also has an assymetric neck profile.

When I bought the ACG there were definitely a few converts out there who swore by the flat board and assym neck profile. I love my ACG but I've not been converted as such. I feel equally at home on my other regular necks.

A mild annoyance with smaller radius necks is sometimes a bit of string imbalance with flat pole pickups (G and E being closer to the poles). Smaller radius also requires more fiddling to get a low action, particularly on a tapered jazz type neck (P type generally not a prob).

It's easier IMO to set up a flat board with low action and even string balance. It's also easier to do DIY maintenance such as fret/fingerboard levelling. Not that I do a lot of that (although I have done some).

I can take or leave assymetric back-of-neck profiles. If pushed, I think I prefer a regular shallow C type profile. Maybe I'm just old fashioned. Having said that, my '57 P has the deepest V neck profile you could imagine and I love it to bits.

As with all this stuff, in the end it's largely down to personal foibles and preference!

Edited by ikay
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