allighatt0r Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Cool! Looking good, Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 [quote name='allighatt0r' timestamp='1487855491' post='3243556'] Cool! Looking good, Andy [/quote] Thanks, Bryan! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 Well, as the saying goes, '' 'Tis an ill wind that blows no good...' And storm Doris meant that the planned trip out with the visitors was cancelled and therefore I was able to sneak down to the cellar a couple of times when no-one was looking. I cut the bulk of the the rough for the back scoop out with the very useful Veritas pull-shave: It's about a 10mm scoop from the highest point. It's still got to have a few of the lumps and bumps sanded out, but, with a round-over router bit round the outside edge, it's beginning to look the part: Next time I'm able to sneak out, I'll be trying to cut the concave curve of the top Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rOB Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 stealth bass build. love it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGreek Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 What are the string options with this size bass? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 [quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1487884208' post='3243954'] What are the string options with this size bass? [/quote] As it's guitar pitch and guitarish scale(s), then we are basically in guitar string territory. What I've gone for for starters is some flatwound jazz guitar strings with a wound G. The tighter E and lower tension on the G from the scale length difference should balance the strings out a bit. I will be wiring it up like a 50s Les Paul Junior to get the interaction between the volume and tone pot. Also, because it's a single coil sized humbucker, I will put a switch option in to allow split coil. It's very much a trip in the dark! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 (edited) Got the top curve planed last night. Still have to do the sanding and the sides - and still have to round the edges of the 'f' hole - but this is starting to get closer to the finished shape: Edited February 24, 2017 by Andyjr1515 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 A quadrant cabinet scraper can help with rounding over in awkward places, especially if you cut it down a bit. It is quite easy to put a gouge in your top though It certainly helps to get a roundover started if it's too fiddly to get any power tools to it though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 [quote name='Norris' timestamp='1487936924' post='3244311'] A quadrant cabinet scraper can help with rounding over in awkward places, especially if you cut it down a bit. It is quite easy to put a gouge in your top though It certainly helps to get a roundover started if it's too fiddly to get any power tools to it though [/quote] It's only a small area and the walnut is nice to work so I reckon a bit of sandpaper wrapped round my finger will be safer still! By the way, just catching up to date with your own build, I realise how close my f hole shape is to your very fancy feature... Apols if I've inadvertently and subliminally knicked the design! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 That's ok. I've incorporated loads of other people's ideas anyway Anyway I have TWO of them I still have some other bits to do first but I do keep thinking about that grain filler now the ash back is ready for it! Loads of real life stuff coming up which means I'll be struggling for time - but I'm still itching to pop that lid! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted February 25, 2017 Author Share Posted February 25, 2017 Can't wait, Norris! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted February 27, 2017 Author Share Posted February 27, 2017 (edited) Over the weekend I popped down to the cellar every hour or so to fit a couple of frets. By this morning, I'd finished all 24 I normally glue the fretboard on before fretting but thought I'd try a different approach this time - there are pro's and con's of both ways. The angle is lower at the nut end to lessen the impact of the fanning for the bulk of the first octave. As far as these things go, though, it is a relatively modest multiscale. Edited February 27, 2017 by Andyjr1515 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted February 27, 2017 Author Share Posted February 27, 2017 (edited) I generally loosely wrap the trussrods in plumbers PTFE tape. I wouldn't necessarily want to try it unless I had to, but in theory my truss rods should be removable and replaceable if needs-be. I do, however, also stress check the welds of all of the rods that I use. The PTFE tape keeps any glue that might seep past the capping (unlikely if it fits right) away from the truss rod itself. I use a length of 6mm binding from an old acoustic build as the cap: After rechecking the flatness of the neck, and chiselling flat the small section where the fretboard goes on top of the body, I then clamped the fretboard, using radius blocks as cauls to even the pressure across the length and sides. I won't know until it's fully dry just how successful this method is going to be... Edited February 27, 2017 by Andyjr1515 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 (edited) With the fretboard now on, I have done the rough-carve of the neck and volute. These are my main weapons of choice: The main one of the three is the cabinet scraper - very controllable and yet quite quick to shape. I take the bulk off with the spokeshave but go to the scraper quite early because it is very easy to dig just a tad too deep with a spokeshave! The micro-plane (I have also a curved one) I just use as is (ie not attached to the handle), holding either end wearing thick gloves. I use the microplanes generally to tidy up the area round the volute. For most builders, doing the neck is the most enjoyable bit - certainly my favourite bit of a build. Here it is, rough-carved: Visually, the neck from the back is very similar to Nic's Mouradian-esque Edited February 28, 2017 by Andyjr1515 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted March 1, 2017 Author Share Posted March 1, 2017 (edited) And so to the headstock. I will be following the recent theme of trying to reflect the essence of the body shape in the shape and carve of the headstock. It will be faced with walnut from offcuts of the body top, filed away at the end to expose the maple and mahogany underneath. The challenge is trying to create a bit of harmony shape-wise, while still trying to fit the practicalities in (physical size and accessibility of the tuning heads, straight string-runs, etc.. This is what I've come up with so far: I'm going to have a bash at slicing a 3-4mm sliver of walnut on my extremely cheap and small bandsaw today. If I am successful, I can cut the headstock shape from it, including the tuner holes, and make absolutely sure that everything fits, is straight, etc, before taking a fretsaw or rasp file to the headstock bit of the through-neck! Edited March 1, 2017 by Andyjr1515 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted March 1, 2017 Author Share Posted March 1, 2017 After trying a few passes, finally got a plate of around the right thickness: I will then be adding a couple of swifts to the plate and a couple of small mahogany wings to the headstock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bastav Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 It´s looking great! Youre working superfast as per usual, making the rest of us look bad... keep it up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted March 1, 2017 Author Share Posted March 1, 2017 [quote name='Bastav' timestamp='1488377679' post='3248393'] It´s looking great! Youre working superfast as per usual, making the rest of us look bad... keep it up [/quote] Well, this one is going so fast I am certain I must have forgotten to do something important ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted March 1, 2017 Author Share Posted March 1, 2017 If you've seen my other threads, this will be familiar Logo swifts hand-drawn and cut out of Mother of Pearl with a jeweller's saw, then traced round onto the headstock plate and routed with a 1mm bit using a Dremel precision router base: Then glued in with epoxy mixed with collected sanding dust: Then sanded flat. The wood has been dampened to show the eventual shade and contrast: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted March 2, 2017 Author Share Posted March 2, 2017 Added the wings to the headstock and sorted the positioning of the pickup ring: Also routed the rebate for the control chamber and made the cover from an offcut of the neck. The concept is the same as Nic's Mouradian and, like Nic's, the cover will be held on with magnets with an access thumb channel. Here's how it's looking so far: This is most definitely the fastest build so far! Unless MrsAndyjr1515 insists I do some useful and necessary stuff in the next few days (which as you can imagine is quite likely, based on that I haven't done anything useful or necessary non-build wise for past few weeks ), the basic build will be complete maybe even before the end of the weekend! I'm certainly at the 'final list' stage. Much of the speed is down to the relatively small number of snags and boo-boos. It's not the sign of a new trend but more probably that, statistically, at least ONE of my builds had to be major-stupid-mistake free! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted March 3, 2017 Author Share Posted March 3, 2017 I know there are cheaper alternatives, but I do like the look and ease of installation of the original black-surround Luminlay. As long as you are using an accurate brad-point drill, it really is a piece of winkle: ...even for the difficult bits: I'm not completely sure about the contrasting washers, but this is broadly how the headstock will look. It will, of course, finish darker: This is what I mean by trying to reflect the body shape in the headstock in terms of the top and bottom horns and the offset: ...and - excusing the unfinished volute carve - the tuners similarly angled: I don't know if it makes a jot of difference, but it keeps [i]me[/i] amused at least Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGreek Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 I like that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted March 3, 2017 Author Share Posted March 3, 2017 [quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1488545760' post='3249875'] I like that... [/quote] Thanks, Mick...do you see an evolution developing.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGreek Posted March 3, 2017 Share Posted March 3, 2017 Looks better than the 2x at 8 o'clock, 2x at 4 o'clock on a Warwick.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted March 3, 2017 Author Share Posted March 3, 2017 I haven't decided yet whether this will be a satin tru-oil slurry and buff, or subsequently gloss varnished. However, I do get the tru-oil sealer on early in the process because it gives me a decent idea how much the wood is going to darken and also shows up any missed sandpaper marks or PVA glue patches. This is typical of the degree of darkening once pretty much any finish goes on: Black walnut usually lives up to its name and REALLY darkens: One of the reasons this might be a candidate for a gloss final finish is that I can see quite a bit of quilting around the top horn and also where the controls will be. Quilting really only comes into its own with a gloss varnish on top. I suspect the overall colour of this top once its all done will be very similar to the back of my home-built OM acoustic although probably with less quilting (although this on the acoustic only showed through at all once I started varnishing!): Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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