Filling in pup routs

[fleabag]

Does anyone have any experience of filling in pickup routs ?

I'm planning to modify my PJ / MM bass with other pickups. This means the old routs will need filling
to a good finish, re-routed for new pickups ( soapbars , so different shape to old pups )

The same thing for the leccy control cavity. Its passive top mounted , like a jazz, but it will be filled and re-routed from the rear because its going to have an active 5 band pre fitted

Eventually, the body will be sprayed painted again

cheers

[Ghost_Bass]

I would say to get a male/female routing template to cut the cavity and a block of wood prefecly in shape to fit snuggly together. Glue it down, apply a bit of filler in the joints and sand it all flush. should do the job very well.

[Matt P]

have you considered buying another body instead? un-routed ones are available and you could then simply rout it to suit the new layout and then sell off the old one (i'm assuming that it's a jazz or a p-bass)

Matt

[fleabag]

Thanks guys

Cant sell the bass and use another body ...i'm rather attached to this one. Well, not all of it, obviously

PS work would have to be out sourced, as i'm talentless in this area of bass mods.

I was just wondering how a builder would have done it

Edited February 24, 2017 by fleabag

[rmorris]

[quote name='fleabag' timestamp='1487940366' post='3244369']
Thanks guys

Cant sell the bass and use another body ...i'm rather attached to this one. Well, not all of it, obviously

PS work would have to be out sourced, as i'm talentless in this area of bass mods.

I was just wondering how a builder would have done it
[/quote]

Seems to me that by the time you've had all that work done it won't really be the same body...

[fleabag]

Pickups just being swapped for more pickups, and instead of 3 knobs on the front , there'll be 5.

Its hardy changing the body that much

[Paul S]

Custom scratchplate to hide the butchery?

[fleabag]

I'm sure i can get away with no scratchplate as long as i give it to someone who knows what they're doing

[Manton Customs]

Yes, I've done it before. It's reasonably straight forward, but you'd obviously need a refinish afterwards, which is the expensive/time consuming part.

The key things are using the same species of wood to fill the routs and to make sure the fit is tight, also using a suitable glue which doesn't creep. If you don't do one of those you run the risk of the filled blocks telegraphing through the finish.

[fleabag]

How far is Shropshire from Oxfordshire ?

[Manton Customs]

It's a fair way but you could post it if necessary, feel free to PM for more info.

[fleabag]

Thanks MC

[Matte_black]

I'd have the body planed to put a new top on it (6mm or so thick). In this way you have a blank canvas for your new pickups needs.

[fleabag]

Its got binding like an areodyne, so it would be an expensive job

[Matte_black]

I don't know this series but if you have binding on front and back, of course you'd have to replace it and would be a mess.
Otherwise you could shave 6mm on both sides and round the sides... always a matter of taste. But the new top would be the best solution as it would allow a transparent finish and a cleaner job.
You could even do a top/back job with an exotic wood, for example. Wouldn't be too hard to do and in that case, binding would go away on both sides LOL.

[fleabag]

I'm going to keep it white ..original colour, as the neck and headstock are also white

Going the other route would just be prohibitively expensive

[Matte_black]

Oh ok, I thought you wanted a bigger "restoration plan". But you'll have to refinish the body anyway... and it's not cheap.

[fleabag]

I'm pretty sure repainting the top white, is a lot less expensive than planing the top off, gluing a cap on, shaping to fit, and then fitting binding, and it would still need painting white

[Matte_black]

But with a solid top and back you could go for a lighter finish.
Anyway, if you want to keep the "solid" color I guess that you could simply fill the old routing with wood and automotive "sealant" and route again.

[fleabag]

If i went that route, then the neck and headstock would need to be done as well as they match the body right now. Plus another logo for the headstock. More expense.

And filling the routs and re- routing was suggested in post 2


[quote name='Ghost_Bass' timestamp='1487939192' post='3244343']
I would say to get a male/female routing template to cut the cavity and a block of wood prefecly in shape to fit snuggly together. Glue it down, apply a bit of filler in the joints and sand it all flush. should do the job very well.
[/quote]

Edited February 24, 2017 by fleabag

[EBS_freak]

Be careful of sinkage - even after a refin, over time you can see the surface sink to expose the lines that lie beneath. Best bet for a flawless finish is to put a thin laminate over the top, feather the edges to the existing top, reroute and drill as required, finish and then you are guaranteed no sinkage. Intensive work - but the only way to guarantee a flawless finish for years to come.

[fleabag]

ok, if you and matt b advise this, i'll have a think about it

[TheGreek]

Have you thought about a veneered top after the work has been done? It'll hide all the work....

Edited February 24, 2017 by TheGreek

[Norris]

Could your pickups be re-packaged to fit the existing holes? It might work out cheaper and needs no intrusive surgery

[fleabag]

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1487964626' post='3244714']
Have you thought about a veneered top after the work has been done? It'll hide all the work....
[/quote]

would only be needed to hide badly done work ?