Bomble Posted March 11, 2017 Share Posted March 11, 2017 Hey! I plan on making and selling pedalboards. This is a prototype, a few changes to be made. I personally don't like the locking jacks! Some feedback from you guys would be awesome, good or bad comments welcome! Cheers 😀 https://imgur.com/a/CjSMA https://imgur.com/Ra1Ul3F https://imgur.com/tfu6Cxt https://imgur.com/nnxndFl https://imgur.com/YFY4AH1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassBus Posted March 11, 2017 Share Posted March 11, 2017 What's your planned selling price? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bomble Posted March 11, 2017 Author Share Posted March 11, 2017 To be honest I don't want to put a price on it until I am 100% of the finished product design.But I plan on doing higher end stuff (if it's good enough) as I can't compete with the big low cost pedalboard brands!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dannybuoy Posted March 11, 2017 Share Posted March 11, 2017 You would need to be competing with these guys then! https://templeboards.co.uk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bomble Posted March 11, 2017 Author Share Posted March 11, 2017 Those are some lovely boards... My idea is to go down the hardwood boutique route, not everyone's thing but I love them! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JapanAxe Posted March 11, 2017 Share Posted March 11, 2017 That mains switch seems a bit vulnerable to accidental operation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bomble Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 I think when you have the kettle lead and guitar lead plugged in it'll be tricky to knock the switch accidentally. But I could be wrong! Cheers for the feedback 😊 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 (edited) I don't know if anyone else agrees, but I avoid boards like that where the sockets make the leads overhang and stick out. Different strokes, and we all play different gigs, but to me they're begging for a drunk dancer to stand on those and ruin it all. Is there an option to recess them? Or maybe mount them vertically? Just a thought! Edited March 13, 2017 by Jack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bomble Posted March 13, 2017 Author Share Posted March 13, 2017 Potentially you could put the input and output jack anywhere, or even omit them if you wanted. I intend to do all one off custom boards, so anything is possible! But I appreciate what your saying, will take it into consideration Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete.young Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 Very nice bit of woodworking . You might want to think about adding a balanced XLR output for people who do things like DI off their Sansamp, or offer it as an option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bomble Posted March 13, 2017 Author Share Posted March 13, 2017 Thanks! Yes I plan to offer different types and more input/outputs if required Cheers for the input (pardon the pun!....) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EBS_freak Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 I'd go with the black chassis version of the jack socket and it will clean it up a lot more. Also... the locking jack sockets are very, very reliable... so don't be tempted to replace them for others that will inevitably fail! Looks great though. Really neat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bomble Posted March 13, 2017 Author Share Posted March 13, 2017 Cheers for the info and kind words dude! One problem I found with the locking jacks is I really have to pull hard to get the lead out (I'm obviously pushing the tab in!) is this normal?? I have bought 4 and they are all the same Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmorris Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 I reckon an IEC power socket would be best on the rear face - less likely to tread on power lead - and use a right angle IEC plug on the mains lead too minimise 'stick out' ? Alternatively some users may prefer a captive lead option at a reasonable length to reach a power strip etc. Nice woodworking btw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bomble Posted March 15, 2017 Author Share Posted March 15, 2017 (edited) [quote name='rmorris' timestamp='1489577965' post='3258046'] I reckon an IEC power socket would be best on the rear face - less likely to tread on power lead - and use a right angle IEC plug on the mains lead too minimise 'stick out' ? Alternatively some users may prefer a captive lead option at a reasonable length to reach a power strip etc. Nice woodworking btw [/quote] Ok, couple of good point to bear in mind. Thanks for the comments and kind words 😊 Edited March 15, 2017 by Bomble Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EBS_freak Posted March 16, 2017 Share Posted March 16, 2017 RE IEC... I actually like powercons, don't go loose over time either. Also, once the button is pressed on the locking socket, the jack should be easily removable so something doesn't sound right there. With regards to mounting Neutrik chassis mount connectors... have you thought about making up a plate and rear mounting them to the plate and then sinking that plate into the side of the board? The fixtures looks a lot nicer rear mounted - and hex bolts (with nyloc nuts behind) make the thing look a lot more pro. That reminds me, I would have all your hardware and bolts matching - e.g. all black. I've done it to the powercons and speakons in this example - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EBS_freak Posted March 16, 2017 Share Posted March 16, 2017 (edited) Try something like this, one for power, one for (or you could fabricate something similar, in wood) Also, there should be at least two outputs on a pedal board, for those that are running stereo pedals and want a stereo out. Would make things nice and symmetrical too. May be less symmetrical if you want the DI also - but I am guessing your market is made to order? For really nice looking plates, check these... and they would look to be bolted to your pedal board from inside. How nice would that look? Of course, you'd rear mount the Neutrik connectors - [url="https://itm-components.co.uk/collections/extron/adapter-plate?page=9"]https://itm-componen...er-plate?page=9[/url] How nice would something like that look?? Depending upon how good your routing is, you may be able to get rid of the plate together... and that would look hella cool. Shouldn't be difficult to rear route into the wood to leave it thin enough to mount the sockets directly. Edited March 16, 2017 by EBS_freak Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bomble Posted March 16, 2017 Author Share Posted March 16, 2017 [quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1489679087' post='3258930'] Try something like this, one for power, one for (or you could fabricate something similar, in wood) Also, there should be at least two outputs on a pedal board, for those that are running stereo pedals and want a stereo out. Would make things nice and symmetrical too. May be less symmetrical if you want the DI also - but I am guessing your market is made to order? For really nice looking plates, check these... and they would look to be bolted to your pedal board from inside. How nice would that look? Of course, you'd rear mount the Neutrik connectors - [url="https://itm-components.co.uk/collections/extron/adapter-plate?page=9"]https://itm-componen...er-plate?page=9[/url] How nice would something like that look?? Depending upon how good your routing is, you may be able to get rid of the plate together... and that would look hella cool. Shouldn't be difficult to rear route into the wood to leave it thin enough to mount the sockets directly. [/quote] Wow, thanks for the info! Much appreciated 😊 Yes I agree to keeping all hardware uniform, I think I will go down the iec route as I think more people will want that rather than powercons, could do it as an option though. Will definitely offer as many in/outputs as needed, as you say they will be built to order. Will check out more info on different types of connectors, I'm a standard jack man, so need to think about that more! Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EBS_freak Posted March 16, 2017 Share Posted March 16, 2017 Also thought... if you don't rear mount, there's always the option of making the connector look a little more pretty... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmorris Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 [quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1489677541' post='3258910'] RE IEC... I actually like powercons, don't go loose over time either. Also, once the button is pressed on the locking socket, the jack should be easily removable so something doesn't sound right there. With regards to mounting Neutrik chassis mount connectors... have you thought about making up a plate and rear mounting them to the plate and then sinking that plate into the side of the board? The fixtures looks a lot nicer rear mounted - and hex bolts (with nyloc nuts behind) make the thing look a lot more pro. That reminds me, I would have all your hardware and bolts matching - e.g. all black. I've done it to the powercons and speakons in this example - [/quote] Yeah - Neutrik PowerCons are good. Secure locking connection. I'd go for the TRUE versions because they are rated for connect / disconnect at load. I use these (in line cable mounting versions) on some (non-audio) high power kit I design. Only reservation is that anything other than IEC type is less universal if you need to get a mains lead quickly or need a longer one etc... Maybe Powercon with an IEC in parallel for 'backup' ??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bazzbass Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 nice job personally I like to be able to hide the cables underneath ala Pedaltrain etc but I know lots that like boards like yours. Go for it. Don't underprice it though, go for the boutique buyers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunderbird Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 I think they look great but I think how much it weighs will be a big selling point I know some woods are light but I can see an all wood board with all the connectors and power etc being pretty heavy and most people seem to be going light nowadays Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bomble Posted March 20, 2017 Author Share Posted March 20, 2017 [quote name='bazztard' timestamp='1489978987' post='3261223'] nice job personally I like to be able to hide the cables underneath ala Pedaltrain etc but I know lots that like boards like yours. Go for it. Don't underprice it though, go for the boutique buyers. [/quote] The top has slots routed in to put all your cables through, all you need to do is cut a slot in the Velcro in the required place. The top is removed by 4 screws. Loads of room inside for cables and power unit https://imgur.com/yk6DcEB The cost of materials is nuts (unless you buy in massive amounts!) so will have to go the boutique route 😊 Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bomble Posted March 20, 2017 Author Share Posted March 20, 2017 [quote name='Thunderbird' timestamp='1489994420' post='3261243'] I think they look great but I think how much it weighs will be a big selling point I know some woods are light but I can see an all wood board with all the connectors and power etc being pretty heavy and most people seem to be going light nowadays [/quote] I know weight will be a biggie for some people, understandably. This board is 600mm x 400mm (15 3/4" x 23 5/8") and weighs 5.5 kgs unloaded. A case will be ready for it soon too Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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