Bridgehouse Posted March 11, 2017 Share Posted March 11, 2017 Well, following the advice on my 'what combo?' thread, I went to Bass Direct today to try some out. Took about 2 minutes to get totally distracted by the Vanderkley cabs on display. They had the new 1200w 4 ohm 2x10 right there on display. Tried a lot of heads through it - best by miles for my kind of tone was the EICH T1000. Crikey it was articulate. Clean, with gain, boosted mids, whatever - just damned articulate and so much 'pop'. At the wattage rating of the amp, I can run it in bridge mode, putting out the full 1000w at 4 ohms straight into the cab. Got it home. Put the gain on about 3ish, and master on 4-ish. With the 64 P on about 75% volume I could have had pictures and plaster off the walls. Flippin' eck. Best bit? Cab is 37lbs and fits in the boot lovely. Head is negligible in weight - in a nice EICH gig bag. All up about the same as the Mark Bass combo or Fender Rumble 500. Ok, so I blew the budget massively, but I just couldn't resist...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danuman Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Oohhh, congrats! That should bring the house down, quite literally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmccombe7 Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Those EICH amps look really nice. Review up soon i hope. Enjoy and have fun. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridgehouse Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 Yes, I'll post some review thoughts when I get to use it in anger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gary mac Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 What a good looking rig. Bet the 64 sounds mighty fine through that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridgehouse Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 [quote name='gary mac' timestamp='1489321604' post='3255974'] What a good looking rig. Bet the 64 sounds mighty fine through that. [/quote] Funny story there.. I tried the 74 through it when I got home. It was as quiet and hum free as anything I've ever heard before. Silent. Even with quite a bit of gain up. With the tweeter on full there was a bit of hiss, but winding it down it was super quiet. I was really impressed. Plugged the 64 in and there was some hum. Not a huge amount, but clearly some hum. Oh oh I thought - grounding issue. Out came the multimeter - checked the continuity on the 74 for reference, all 100% perfect. The 64 however - perfect from pots and pups to the jack, but the strings weren't. Hmmmm. There was continuity from the bridge ground solder on the pot to the jack, but not from the bridge and strings. Strings off, and pulled the bridge. It was clear I was the first person to pop the bridge off since new (!) - and there it was, the ground wire bare end had sunk into the lacquer over time and wasn't making a good connection. Moved it, tightened it up and reseated the bridge. Guess what? 100% continuity and absolutely no hum. Clean as a whistle. Sounds superb. You live and learn huh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gary mac Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Yes, I've encountered that at least it's a nice simple fix. Well done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridgehouse Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 [quote name='gary mac' timestamp='1489324819' post='3256011'] Yes, I've encountered that at least it's a nice simple fix. Well done [/quote] Thanks - I thought I was going a bit mad at first. Once I had the bridge off I thought "Aha, that's the culprit" Was glad it was an easy fix! Didn't want to face the prospect of getting a soldering iron anywhere near an untouched 64! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gary mac Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 [quote name='Bridgehouse' timestamp='1489325635' post='3256022'] Thanks - I thought I was going a bit mad at first. Once I had the bridge off I thought "Aha, that's the culprit" Was glad it was an easy fix! Didn't want to face the prospect of getting a soldering iron anywhere near an untouched 64! [/quote] Yes, that is unnerving. Had to do some work on a sixties pick guard a while back, I was certainly sweating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 I'm really interested in those EICH amps, specifically I think the 900 for me. One things that's put me off (I'm yet to hear them in fairness) is the bass and treble controls seem to be at ludicrous frequencies. Who's producing 30Hz or 8kHz? I'd be really keen to read your review, especially concerning the eq. Enjoy the new amp, very jealous! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridgehouse Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 (edited) [quote name='Jack' timestamp='1489332153' post='3256082'] I'm really interested in those EICH amps, specifically I think the 900 for me. One things that's put me off (I'm yet to hear them in fairness) is the bass and treble controls seem to be at ludicrous frequencies. Who's producing 30Hz or 8kHz? I'd be really keen to read your review, especially concerning the eq. Enjoy the new amp, very jealous! [/quote] On the T1000, the Lo band of the EQ is at around 70hz, and the Hi band is around 5khz. (Lo Mid is 250hz and Hi Mid is 800hz) I think you might be thinking about the Bass Boost and High Boost switches - the Bass Boost gives 12db at 30hz, and the High Boost 12db at 10khz. Both switches are totally separate to the EQ controls but do make a tangible difference the the sound - fuller, rounder, deeper and a bit more sparkly (to taste, of course!) Edited March 12, 2017 by Bridgehouse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridgehouse Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 Jack - just looked at the specs for the T900. You're right - the EQ for it is different. So, I'd say you have to hear it for yourself - the T1000 is different. I like the EQ on the T1000 from what I've heard so far and the two boost controls seem to be very flexible. YMMV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bazzbass Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 whoever thought bass cabs could look sexy ? (apart from my Hartke XL 210s of course) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 That looks superb, is it loud enough for use in a full band context, without PA support? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markstuk Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 (edited) What model is that 210? Can't see it on their website... Just found it on their facebook page - 210LNT [font=inherit] [color=#1D2129][font=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif][font=inherit][font=inherit]210LNT Neolite Bass Cabinet, •1200 Watts - 4Ω •40 Hz – 16 kHz •100 dB 1W @ 1m •21 Kg[/font][/font][/font][/color][/font] [color=#1D2129][font=Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif][color=#90949C][font=inherit] [/font][/color][/font][/color] Edited March 15, 2017 by markstuk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lw. Posted March 15, 2017 Share Posted March 15, 2017 You've been on a right spending spree in the last couple of months! Vanderkley do make nice looking cabs, I'll give 'em that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridgehouse Posted March 15, 2017 Author Share Posted March 15, 2017 Well, yes I sold a lot of gear recently and had to spend the money on something! It's definitely loud. Very loud. Most importantly the headroom is massive - With the cab taking 1200w you can pump all 1000w from the EICH in bridge mode into it and it laps it up. And the Vanderkley cabs are nice - these new ones do seem to be really rather good. I'm liking having a cab that will take a big output head without having to be careful how much I turn it up.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Krow Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 (edited) [quote name='Bridgehouse' timestamp='1489318272' post='3255938'] Yes, I'll post some review thoughts when I get to use it in anger [/quote] Hey - I'm guessing you've managed to use this in "anger" on several occasions now - be really good to hear your thoughts? This does look like one helluva great cab and a complete "one cab" solution. Just seen you [i]also[/i] have a BF Compact. Okay I appreciate we are talking about £600 for Gen 3 BF Super Compact vs £800 for this Vanderkley so they're not quite in the same price bracket, but it would be really interesting to hear how the two cabs A/B (apart from the massively greater power handling of the Vanderkley). Edited June 12, 2017 by Al Krow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridgehouse Posted July 6, 2017 Author Share Posted July 6, 2017 [quote name='Al Krow' timestamp='1497298101' post='3317183'] Hey - I'm guessing you've managed to use this in "anger" on several occasions now - be really good to hear your thoughts? This does look like one helluva great cab and a complete "one cab" solution. Just seen you [i]also[/i] have a BF Compact. Okay I appreciate we are talking about £600 for Gen 3 BF Super Compact vs £800 for this Vanderkley so they're not quite in the same price bracket, but it would be really interesting to hear how the two cabs A/B (apart from the massively greater power handling of the Vanderkley). [/quote] Sorry - been away for quite a bit! The Vanderkley cab is more like £1k as it's the 1200w version. If I'm honest, it's incredible. More dynamic, responsive and more air moved than any other cab I've used. It's a lot more dynamic and expressive compared to the Barefaced, and the SPL is noticeable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Krow Posted July 6, 2017 Share Posted July 6, 2017 (edited) [quote name='Bridgehouse' timestamp='1499367475' post='3331124'] Sorry - been away for quite a bit! The Vanderkley cab is more like £1k as it's the 1200w version. If I'm honest, it's incredible. More dynamic, responsive and more air moved than any other cab I've used. It's a lot more dynamic and expressive compared to the Barefaced, and the SPL is noticeable [/quote] Fantastic. I have serious cab & amp envy (and have made a mental note of your combination). Does that make me CAMPE? I LOVE the fact that the cab is pretty light and yet can handle 1200W!! Just one point to confirm - you mentioned 37lbs above whereas the website says 44lbs for the 1200W version? (I think we are both getting confused between the lighter and cheaper 600W 210 and your heavier and more expensive 1200W version). Been some remarks elsewhere about not trusting the plywood construction of BF cabs. Have you found your BF to be either slightly fragile and / or been wary of damaging it? My only other Q is how do you find a 210 in terms of handling the lows, particularly a B string or octave down, compared to the 12" (or was it a 15" on the Gen2 compact) of the BF? A wider question to my fellow BCs: does the wood used in the cab construction have any bearing on the quality of the sound a cab puts out or is that pretty much entirely down to the speakers, electronics and drivers? Edited July 6, 2017 by Al Krow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Dare Posted July 7, 2017 Share Posted July 7, 2017 Nice. Dangerous shop, BD. They just give you something nice to play with and that's the budget right out of the window. Enjoy the new toy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bertbass Posted July 7, 2017 Share Posted July 7, 2017 The wood used in the construction of a cab is not important it's how much the cab vibrates. The energy used to make the cab vibrate is wasted energy, energy that should be used to make sound. 18mm ply has become the norm for cab construction because it's easy to make and you don't have to worry about bracing but you end up with a heavy cabinet. MDF is better from a vibration point of view but is even heavier and easily damaged and absorbs water quite well. A concrete cabinet would be perfect but not very practical. If you can brace a cabinet well so that there is no vibration then you can have it all, a light cabinet made of thinner material that performs brilliantly. Bill Fitzmaurice and Alex at Barefaced have done just that and while personal preference in sound plays a large part in the decision on what to spend your money on, no one can disagree that their products are some of the best you can buy or make. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie Posted July 7, 2017 Share Posted July 7, 2017 (edited) [quote name='Al Krow' timestamp='1499369228' post='3331141'] A wider question to my fellow BCs: does the wood used in the cab construction have any bearing on the quality of the sound a cab puts out or is that pretty much entirely down to the speakers, electronics and drivers? [/quote] Yes, the wood makes a noticeable difference to the sound, as does the quality of construction and cabinet design. It's only part of the equation but quite an important one. Let me give you a tip. Next time you test a bass cab, play an open E (doesn't have to be loud) and feel for panel vibrations with the palm of your hand. The back panel is likely to be the most telling, although it depends on the shape of the cab. If you can feel vibrations at a low volume, imagine how much that panel is going to be vibrating when there are 400 watts slamming into it. Whenever I go to a Bass Bash, I spend 15 minutes or so testing cabs for vibration (I don't think anyone's spotted me doing this so far) and it's been quite illuminating. You won't be able to feel any vibrations with a well designed cab and that translates into better dynamics, better transients, lower colouration and less "lumpiness" at volume. Edited July 7, 2017 by stevie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmccombe7 Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 [quote name='Bridgehouse' timestamp='1489322833' post='3255988'] Funny story there.. I tried the 74 through it when I got home. It was as quiet and hum free as anything I've ever heard before. Silent. Even with quite a bit of gain up. With the tweeter on full there was a bit of hiss, but winding it down it was super quiet. I was really impressed. Plugged the 64 in and there was some hum. Not a huge amount, but clearly some hum. Oh oh I thought - grounding issue. Out came the multimeter - checked the continuity on the 74 for reference, all 100% perfect. The 64 however - perfect from pots and pups to the jack, but the strings weren't. Hmmmm. There was continuity from the bridge ground solder on the pot to the jack, but not from the bridge and strings. Strings off, and pulled the bridge. It was clear I was the first person to pop the bridge off since new (!) - and there it was, the ground wire bare end had sunk into the lacquer over time and wasn't making a good connection. Moved it, tightened it up and reseated the bridge. Guess what? 100% continuity and absolutely no hum. Clean as a whistle. Sounds superb. You live and learn huh? [/quote] I'll need to check my Jazz as it has a little bit of hum. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_b Posted July 12, 2017 Share Posted July 12, 2017 (edited) Careful, there seems to be 2 different measuring systems at work here. The 1200 watts of the 210LNT is not RMS. It's AES which, while it's supposed to be the more accurate figure, is actually less than the RMS figure. A quote I've seen is that 800 watts AES is the equivalent to 600 watts RMS. The RMS figure will be about a third less. Edited July 12, 2017 by chris_b Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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