anzoid Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Thinking of buying an Allparts Jazz neck to go on my P-bass. The one I've found is un-finished and says "ready to spray". It's a maple neck with maple fretboard. What's the minimum I need to do to make the neck usable (both front and back...). I'm not at all keen on spraying but any other application method is a possibility (if I knew what they were... wax, oil?) Can you tell I don't have a clue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin_lindsay Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 the key thing to do is sand the sharp fingerboard edges- makes the neck more comfortable in the hand while playing. Also, sanded the fret ends - they're pretty harsh when you get the raw neck. As for finishing the wood, I've only sprayed them - never used oil or a similar substance. Using nitrocellulose lacquer from Steve at Manchester Guitar Tech, application is pretty easy - only takes a couple of light coats. Saying that, you need to apply a couple of initial spray passes along the walnut skink stripe as the walnut is more open grained compared to the maple. After spraying the fingerboard, you'll have to scrape the lacquer off the frets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anzoid Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 Thanks for the advice on sanding! I'll definitely be on the lookout for that.. My main problem with sprayed lacquer is that I have literally nowhere at home that I could do spraying that wouldn't get me in trouble Could have done it in the old house, but not since we moved. Does anyboy have experience of Tru-Oil applied on a maple neck? From the extra reading I've done since posting the question, it seems like a reasonable finish if applied using the finger tips and worked into the wood. I'm quite happy to spend a reasonable amount of time on this - the journey is as of much interest as the destination Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dyerseve Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 [quote name='anzoid' timestamp='1489324598' post='3256007'] Thanks for the advice on sanding! I'll definitely be on the lookout for that.. My main problem with sprayed lacquer is that I have literally nowhere at home that I could do spraying that wouldn't get me in trouble Could have done it in the old house, but not since we moved. Does anyboy have experience of Tru-Oil applied on a maple neck? From the extra reading I've done since posting the question, it seems like a reasonable finish if applied using the finger tips and worked into the wood. I'm quite happy to spend a reasonable amount of time on this - the journey is as of much interest as the destination [/quote] I would just use Danish oil to finish. Dead easy to apply and leaves an attractive and durable finish Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted March 13, 2017 Share Posted March 13, 2017 The best finish, in my personal view, is also one of the easiest - Tru-oil slurry and buff. This is my preferred finish on my own instruments as well as those I build for other people. The neck ends up SILKY smooth, keeps the dirt out, still feels like wood. What's not to like Nic's (gelfin) Moradian neck was done like that: The piccolo bass I've just finished also done like that: It's well documented in various places, but basically:[list] [*]Apply a decent coat of the tru-oil with a rag and let it dry at least overnight [*]Lightly sand and add another coat - leave that overnight to dry too [*]With some 600-800 wet and dry, use it wetted with tru-oil and create a fine slurry as you work up the neck (wear latex gloves - it's messy!). Wipe off the slurry after just a few minutes with a mircofibre or similar lint-free cloth. [*]Repeat after a couple of hours [*]And again [*]Then do the same with 800 grit, but this time, wipe off the wet slurry with one cloth and with a dry, unused cloth, immediately buff vigorously. You should get a satin smooth surface almost immediately. It will be a little tacky to touch for an hour or so but will dry to a very decent protective surface [*]You might want to repeat for an even smoother satin finish, but it will be usable after one [*]After an overnight, once it is fully dry, give it a final buff up with a clean cloth [/list] So - a couple of days and can all be done in the spare room! Personally, I do the same for my fretboards (and certainly for the all in one maple ones) and it's the same process for a satin finish on a body wood if that's the sort of thing that appeals. You just have to FEEL this silky smoothness to understand just how good this technique is. There has been no other finish on this walnut, mahogany, maple or snakewood than what I have described above: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anzoid Posted March 29, 2017 Author Share Posted March 29, 2017 Thank you Andy so much for the advice! The purchase of the neck fell through - but I ended up picking up a cheapo MIM Fender with maple neck that has served as a donor! However, having read all that you've written - this is definitely something I want to try out - and might even be capable of doing a decent job of! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dannybuoy Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 Those tips will come in handy, I have a CV Jazz neck and a bottle of Tru Oil here waiting for a project one day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prime_BASS Posted April 5, 2017 Share Posted April 5, 2017 Can vouch for true oil. I don't like doing too much so literally spent a day or two applying a light light light amount to the back of a neck, steel wooled it down after a few hours. Repeated 3 or 4 times. Feels great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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