LukeFRC Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 Is it a uv blocking finish to stop sunlight changing the wood colour over time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted July 3, 2017 Author Share Posted July 3, 2017 [quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1499085623' post='3329023'] Is it a uv blocking finish to stop sunlight changing the wood colour over time? [/quote] I think to a certain extent - it's designed to try to retain the 'just sanded look' long term. Having said that, I'm a bit sceptical of some claims or some suppliers.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mottlefeeder Posted July 3, 2017 Share Posted July 3, 2017 [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1498855653' post='3327640'] ... you need to have the strings slackened off before you adjust the truss rod in any event. [/quote] When I tighten the truss rod, I tend to straighten the neck with hand pressure to make the operation easier. Loosening the truss-rod reduces the pressure anyway, so I did not think it was a problem. I only remove one string at a time, because I'm working on the basis that a truss-rod force with no counter-acting string tension is as bad as string tension with no counter-acting truss-rod force. You have much more experience, and you do it differently, so what is the rational behind your advice? David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted July 3, 2017 Author Share Posted July 3, 2017 [quote name='Mottlefeeder' timestamp='1499101566' post='3329185'] When I tighten the truss rod, I tend to straighten the neck with hand pressure to make the operation easier. Loosening the truss-rod reduces the pressure anyway, so I did not think it was a problem. I only remove one string at a time, because I'm working on the basis that a truss-rod force with no counter-acting string tension is as bad as string tension with no counter-acting truss-rod force. You have much more experience, and you do it differently, so what is the rational behind your advice? David [/quote] Decent question, David. I'm not sure my experience counts for much but the conventional wisdom is probably based on historical failures of truss rod threads, nuts and allen sockets. The problem isnt as much the rod itself, but the forces involved in turning the nut when it is under maximum tension is always going to be much higher than when it is under less tension. If everything is spot on, it will be OK - the nut or allen socket not soft, the correct and unworn spanner or allen key, the threads on the rod and nut to correct hardness and no dirt, corrosion, etc.. But sometimes one or more of those is not spot on and if the thread strips or breaks or the allen socket rounds off...well then there's a very serious problem. All that slackening off the strings does is reduce that risk. And it's perhaps more about how serious the consequence of failure is than how likely it is to happen. As an aside, there are some basses and guitars where I personally don't slacken off - you can generally tell by how stiff the nut feels whether it is a potential problem. There are others where I would always slacken off. And sometimes it depends on the value - the beautiful and valuable '86 Wal I'm doing some neck work on at the moment is one of those... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghost_Bass Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1499119408' post='3329408'] Decent question, David. I'm not sure my experience counts for much but the conventional wisdom is probably based on historical failures of truss rod threads, nuts and allen sockets. The problem isnt as much the rod itself, but the forces involved in turning the nut when it is under maximum tension is always going to be much higher than when it is under less tension. If everything is spot on, it will be OK - the nut or allen socket not soft, the correct and unworn spanner or allen key, the threads on the rod and nut to correct hardness and no dirt, corrosion, etc.. But sometimes one or more of those is not spot on and if the thread strips or breaks or the allen socket rounds off...well then there's a very serious problem. All that slackening off the strings does is reduce that risk. And it's perhaps more about how serious the consequence of failure is than how likely it is to happen. As an aside, there are some basses and guitars where I personally don't slacken off - you can generally tell by how stiff the nut feels whether it is a potential problem. There are others where I would always slacken off. And sometimes it depends on the value - the beautiful and valuable '86 Wal I'm doing some neck work on at the moment is one of those... [/quote] Great answer, i do the same. Normally don't slacken the strings unless the truss rod nut looks chewed or rusty. The use of a correct size (with a snug fit) key is essencial to a good result. I've been known, when the correct allen key is a bit loose, to grab the next size allen key and file it down for a snug fit. Keys are cheap, replacing a truss rod isn't! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mottlefeeder Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 Thank you both - very useful information. David Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeFRC Posted July 4, 2017 Share Posted July 4, 2017 Main thing is don't use toghten it under pressure cos then it's only the threads of the screw that is pushing it down. Slackening the strings, or physically pulling the neck back does the same thing - it lets you tighten the nut without it being under pressure - lessening the chance of stripping anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted July 5, 2017 Author Share Posted July 5, 2017 I'll post some pictures later today, but first impressions using the Osmo finish is that it is SUPERB! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted July 5, 2017 Author Share Posted July 5, 2017 (edited) Top left area is the Osmo, top right is Tru-oil and bottom is unfinished: End grain is even more impressive - top is Osmo, middle is Tru-oil and bottom is unfinished: And this has had a quick trial coat all over, including the fretboard to see how it performs: I have to say, this is a bit of a revelation Next check is to see how quickly, how well and how non-tacky it all dries. I also am using the thin trial coat to show up any sanding scratches or missed bits before I do the proper coats. The whole thing will be sanded down one more time before then. Other checks and trials include:[list] [*]Will this slurry-and-buff in the same way as, say, tru-oil? [*]If you do that, do you lose the lightening? [*]I also have received the Crimson White Stain. Can this be used under the Osmo? [*]How much does that then lose the figuring? [/list] Going to have a busy and interesting afternoon! Edited July 5, 2017 by Andyjr1515 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allighatt0r Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 Sounds like you've had too much paint fumes... no one in their right mind should be getting this excited Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted July 5, 2017 Author Share Posted July 5, 2017 [quote name='allighatt0r' timestamp='1499262088' post='3330366'] Sounds like you've had too much paint fumes... no one in their right mind should be getting this excited [/quote] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted July 5, 2017 Author Share Posted July 5, 2017 OK - I now pretty much know how I want to proceed with this. First I wanted to compare:[list] [*]Freshly sanded wood (left) [*]Osmo Polyx Raw treated (middle) [*]Untreated wood simply dampened with a cloth (right) [/list] Well - it certainly does do what it says on the tin! : The next was to see the effect of applying some Crimson White Stain - significantly thinned - on the figuring. So:[list] [*]Left has the thinned Crimson stain, left to dry then coated with a single wipe of Osmo [*]Right is raw timber with a single wipe of Osmo: [/list] As expected, even though the Osmo does itself supress the flame figuring a tiny bit, the Crimson stain completely masks it. I was expecting this but, with the Crimson stain being so watered down, I'm surprised that the flame is completely gone! So conclusion - stick with Osmo only. Next experiment was whether the Osmo would 'slurry and buff'? The answer is yes - and the resulting finish is so much nicer than the usage recommendation of just wipe on. I'm going to let the test area dry overnight but even not fully set, it feels silky... All being well, I should be able to sand it all back down in the morning and apply the first of the final finish coats Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walshy Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1499253998' post='3330273'] Top left area is the Osmo, top right is Tru-oil and bottom is unfinished: End grain is even more impressive - top is Osmo, middle is Tru-oil and bottom is unfinished: And this has had a quick trial coat all over, including the fretboard to see how it performs: I have to say, this is a bit of a revelation Next check is to see how quickly, how well and how non-tacky it all dries. I also am using the thin trial coat to show up any sanding scratches or missed bits before I do the proper coats. The whole thing will be sanded down one more time before then. Other checks and trials include:[list] [*]Will this slurry-and-buff in the same way as, say, tru-oil? [*]If you do that, do you lose the lightening? [*]I also have received the Crimson White Stain. Can this be used under the Osmo? [*]How much does that then lose the figuring? [/list] Going to have a busy and interesting afternoon! [/quote] Firstly, excellent work! I use Osmo Polyx oils a lot, make furniture, kitchens, shepherd huts etc... And it is as good as they say. Doesn't stain, heat ring, wipes clean with warm soapy water. Super flat Matt finish to glossy. You can certainly buff it up to a sheen, we use lint free cloths or woollen mit. It's a wax oil so you can put a finish underneath, we have painted, waxed, oiled underneath but always do a test first. Happy to help if I can. Can't wait to see the finished build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted July 5, 2017 Author Share Posted July 5, 2017 [quote name='walshy' timestamp='1499263600' post='3330381'] Firstly, excellent work! I use Osmo Polyx oils a lot, make furniture, kitchens, shepherd huts etc... And it is as good as they say. Doesn't stain, heat ring, wipes clean with warm soapy water. Super flat Matt finish to glossy. You can certainly buff it up to a sheen, we use lint free cloths or woollen mit. It's a wax oil so you can put a finish underneath, we have painted, waxed, oiled underneath but always do a test first. Happy to help if I can. Can't wait to see the finished build. [/quote] That makes me feel even better about it Thanks for the confirmation that they seem to be mighty fine products Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chienmortbb Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 I have used some on a worktop this weekend. Really impressed. However I have heard good reports about Crimson's Guitar Finishing Oil. I might try that soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 Nice test results! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted July 7, 2017 Author Share Posted July 7, 2017 I'm still very pleased with the Osmo Here you can see the difference between the body - that has had one straight coat & wipe and one slurried coat & wipe - and the fretboard north of the 24th fret in the pic that hasn't: ...and here you can see not only that wiping minimises the impact on the ebony, but also that the maple and sycamore are now pretty indistinguishable! : Anyway, better get off to what is probably the biggest gig our old-sods'-band have done. It's maybe a bit of an exaggeration...but only a bit...we're supporting The Blockheads! A crime against humanity or an absolute triumph for care in the community? You decide..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walshy Posted July 7, 2017 Share Posted July 7, 2017 Looks lovely so far mate, and enjoy the gig fella! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted July 9, 2017 Author Share Posted July 9, 2017 Gig went well (phew) I really like this Osmo Polyx. Just got to do the final tidying up in one or two places, but the finish is pretty much all on and sorted. It's held the colour of the sanded wood to a remarkable degree: ...but the wood is gorgeous to the touch: I have a bit of a crazy week coming up, but it's now all about the electrics installation and the final hardware installation and set up. Always takes longer than you expect but the end is now well in sight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted July 10, 2017 Author Share Posted July 10, 2017 One of the finish off jobs before doing the final finish on the headstock was ferrules or no ferrules. Decided they would be a good thing: The cut outs should be deep enough and long enough to prevent string marks so later this afternoon I can do the last coat of finish on the headstock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGreek Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 Function AND form...nice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daz39 Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 My word - the headstock alone's worth a Degree in Complicated Woodwork. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeFRC Posted July 10, 2017 Share Posted July 10, 2017 [quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1499594738' post='3332364'] Gig went well (phew) I really like this Osmo Polyx. Just got to do the final tidying up in one or two places, but the finish is pretty much all on and sorted. It's held the colour of the sanded wood to a remarkable degree: [/quote] I really like the way it's highlighted the difference between the neck wood and the body wood - I think it's kept the lightness you wanted but really really emphasised the beauty of the wood compared to the unfinished photos you stuck up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted July 11, 2017 Author Share Posted July 11, 2017 Thanks, folks - always appreciated The next four photos belie the significant number of hours spent... First the bridge earthing is sorted. I don't know what other people do, but I solder the earth wire onto a small patch of copper shielding for my bridge earths - ensures a good connection and no lumpy bit holding the bridge off its seating: Then it's the battery clip and the pots - here we have two done and one to go. Note the locators on the pots that stop the pot twisting: Still go to install the jack socket and tidy up the knob clearance cutaways, but here we are with all four controls and the tuner block installed: Fully accessible (and very easy to use....phew! ) but completely hidden from the front: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
walshy Posted July 11, 2017 Share Posted July 11, 2017 A thing of beauty mate, looks mega! Wonder how it will play/sound once finished 👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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