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Navarone.45-43"multiscale headless


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The carbon rods are cut to length so they they fit nice.They will be til the pickup cavity.You can see 2 angled lines i have draw,the one is from the fretboard and the other from the pickup cavity.

I thought i will glue them today,but i have to go and leave it.I thing tomorrow this job will be done

2mc68w7.jpg

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I'm with you on that.

It's about the most ambitious build I've seen here.  We were talking about it briefly at the fifth Midlands Bash Bash yesterday.

Three BC members who build regularly gave presentations on their methods and the tools that they use.  When your "ergonobass" was mentioned the question of playing position came up.  I kind of assumed that you'd have to play this like an upright instrument unless you were seven feet tall.  Having seen you do the double cut body, I am thinking again...

If played horizontally by a right hander, am I right in thinking that you would have to have the bridge a lot further to your right in order to reach first position?

PS:  The links to your earlier photos are broken.  Have you still got those images please?

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First of all,its my honor that bass players and builders are talking about my bass.

In the end of the build i will thank all the people that helped me with this,because behind of this build,are so many great guys hidden,who helped me with their knowledge

 

I will see if i can edit the earlier posts and upload again the pictures.

This bass,actually,is not an ergonomic bass.

The 2 main reasons,are dimensions and weight.

If a person need ergonomic bass,he must look for max 30" scale.The smaller the scale,the smaller the frets,and easier to play

This bass because of the bigger scale,have more wood than a common bass guitar and that means it weights more.

I will try to make 36mm body thickness to lose weight.

I am not a luthier,just a DIYer.

In the beginning,i wanted to build a multiscale.Also a headless.So,i make the decision to build a multiscale-headless.

From my previous 40" build,i know that if a bass be longer than 40",the wrist on the left hand is gonna be i difficult position.So it must be torzal neck.

I choose to put all these in one single build,just for the fun and the challenge to see if i can make it.

There are still things that i didn't know how i will do,but as the build is going on,i see what it will be nice or good,and do it.

Tha playing positions are these at the pictures.The neck is angled,but there is nothing to rest the right hand like the normal basses,which i like,but there are so many players,that don't rest their right hand on the bass

17s4fb.jpgvqsgn7.jpg

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Your English is fine.  We have so-called native English speakers who could learn a lot from you.  Heeheehee

The images are good too.  The body shape now makes sense.

So it's the Multiscalpentorzedless Bass.  Cool.  It needs a loooooooong name just so the name plate doesn't get lost somewhere in that vast expanse of timber and fretwork (It's not going to be fretless as well is it?).

As the owner of two paddle basses I got used to the lack of a forearm resting zone.  I found a way of anchoring my wrist just where the palm of my hand starts on the edge of the paddle shaped body.  Often the pick-up bezel served as a thumb rest but only for short periods.

There has been a fair bit said and done about lightening of bass bodies elsewhere in the Build Diaries.  I am sure you're aware.

With a pioneering spirit such as yours I have every confidence that you will work out the wrinkles in your plan.

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  • 2 weeks later...

the progress of the last week

i have made contour in the backside and open holes in the body to lose weight,then glued the top.

you can also see the high difference because of the torzal.But these peaks will be cut later as the line of the pen in the last pic shows


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I have glue the down "wing" of the body,and cut the control cavity plate.

Now the body is ready for paint.Only the pot holes are not open.I will do them at the end.

Now i can do serious work with the neck

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2nld94h.jpg

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2 hours ago, Saved said:

I need help.

I am planing to use 3 layer fretboard.Wenge,maple,wenge.Each layer 3mm thick.The final thickness will be 9mm.Is this ok or is it to much?The fretboard will be flat,no radius.

I wouldn't have thought the thickness of the fretboard itself would be a problem. Worth looking at the angles and how high the bridge and pickups will need to sit but other than that not sure there would be an issue with the thickness itself.  What's everyone else think?

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