Saved Posted May 23, 2018 Author Share Posted May 23, 2018 I think that thicker fretboard makes the truss rod work more dificult and dont let the sttings make a bow to the neck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted May 23, 2018 Share Posted May 23, 2018 3 hours ago, Saved said: I think that thicker fretboard makes the truss rod work more dificult and dont let the sttings make a bow to the neck I think that depends on the stiffness of the fretboard, not the thickness (although these can be related) because the truss rod acts on the whole neck. Does the fretboard bend at all? Also, think carbon rod stiffened necks - one holy grail seems to be building necks that do not bend. I think the only issue might be that, in order to maintain the planned thickness of the whole neck, the truss rod slot will need to be 2-3mm deeper in the neck itself - and that might be getting the bottom of that slot very close to the bottom of the neck, particularly at the nut end. You could, of course, rout a shallow slot in the back of the fretboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted May 23, 2018 Share Posted May 23, 2018 Given the scale of the bass it shouldn't be too much of a problem. It is quite thick compared to most, but as long as you get your geometry correct it should be fine. Especially given the skills you've already demonstrated 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted May 23, 2018 Share Posted May 23, 2018 1 hour ago, Andyjr1515 said: I think that depends on the stiffness of the fretboard, not the thickness (although these can be related) because the truss rod acts on the whole neck. Does the fretboard bend at all? Also, think carbon rod stiffened necks - one holy grail seems to be building necks that do not bend. ...and reading back, I've just remembered that you have rods in anyway. The bit I'm not sure - now I am also remembering that your neck has that intriguing twist in it - is what purpose the truss rod has anyway? I can't see how, if tightened, the rod would give a meaningful relief (that is, in which plane would it creating the relief??). If I'm right, then the stiffer the neck the better - in which case the thicker fretboard and carbon rods will help and not hinder. It's just a guess though. I might be completely misunderstanding the design... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saved Posted May 23, 2018 Author Share Posted May 23, 2018 Well..in my 40" scale p-bass,i have made a very stiff neck.Basevall but is nothing in front of this neck. But the stiffer the neck is,the harder you adjust it.We need strong,but elastic necks so we can set up our instrument easy. If it become so strong and stiff,the strings will not have the power to give the relief i need and i will have to use the truss rod to bow the neck and not to straighten it. Anyway,this is an experimental bass,so any failure is into the program from the first day this build started Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saved Posted May 24, 2018 Author Share Posted May 24, 2018 The first layer of the fretboard is glued on. I use a big rubber piece to make the fretboard follow the twist of the neck 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saved Posted May 25, 2018 Author Share Posted May 25, 2018 I took of the rubber. The fretboard is nice glued on.I have to sand it in the right dimensions and then glue the maple layer up on 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldwinbass Posted May 26, 2018 Share Posted May 26, 2018 Looking good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saved Posted May 27, 2018 Author Share Posted May 27, 2018 Here my GF (goat friend)is helping me Just glued the maple fretboard layer and the side view 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saved Posted May 27, 2018 Author Share Posted May 27, 2018 On 5/6/2018 at 09:38, SpondonBassed said: I'm with you on that. It's about the most ambitious build I've seen here. We were talking about it briefly at the fifth Midlands Bash Bash yesterday. Three BC members who build regularly gave presentations on their methods and the tools that they use. When your "ergonobass" was mentioned the question of playing position came up. I kind of assumed that you'd have to play this like an upright instrument unless you were seven feet tall. Having seen you do the double cut body, I am thinking again... If played horizontally by a right hander, am I right in thinking that you would have to have the bridge a lot further to your right in order to reach first position? PS: The links to your earlier photos are broken. Have you still got those images please? I think have all of the pictures that are broken links now. You wan to post all of them (i don't know exactly what i have posted) or you wan to see a few specific pics? 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saved Posted May 29, 2018 Author Share Posted May 29, 2018 The fretboard is onboard now.. before sanding after sanding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saved Posted May 31, 2018 Author Share Posted May 31, 2018 Made the body contour and started to shape the back of the neck.Also open the pickup cavities 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted June 2, 2018 Share Posted June 2, 2018 On 27/05/2018 at 22:11, Saved said: I think have all of the pictures that are broken links now. You wan to post all of them (i don't know exactly what i have posted) or you wan to see a few specific pics? Thanks. The router jig for the twisted neck was the bit that was hard to understand. Now that I have seen the images it's much easier to follow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saved Posted June 2, 2018 Author Share Posted June 2, 2018 Οk.i will upload the pics with the torzal jig again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted June 2, 2018 Share Posted June 2, 2018 24 minutes ago, Saved said: Οk.i will upload the pics with the torzal jig again I thought you had already but if there are more - great! Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christine Posted June 2, 2018 Share Posted June 2, 2018 That is an awesome build, very ambitious, a nightmare to get your head around all those angles I'm sure. I'm very impressed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saved Posted June 2, 2018 Author Share Posted June 2, 2018 I dont know how,but the links of photobucket are working and i can see the pics. Thats very nice because i dont have to do all the job again (Yes,i am little bit lazy some times) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saved Posted June 2, 2018 Author Share Posted June 2, 2018 3 hours ago, Christine said: That is an awesome build, very ambitious, a nightmare to get your head around all those angles I'm sure. I'm very impressed I like to do weird things,but the best i am doing is..ugly things..man,i could be the king of ugly things Till this day i jeep trying with the weird I cant compare my builds with yours even in my wildest dreams.you are far forward from me 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saved Posted July 27, 2018 Author Share Posted July 27, 2018 Ladies and gents.. i give you,my headpiece. String holes 4.2mm,string holding bolts M5,total wight (without the bolts)100 gr.Next step,paint it black.. ok.Lets get serious now. The pics.. PS. i bought new bolts,black,shorter than these and full length threaded 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldwinbass Posted July 27, 2018 Share Posted July 27, 2018 Ingenious, this is really interesting. Can't wait to see what you do next - paint it black I suppose! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 (edited) 11 hours ago, Saved said: PS. i bought new bolts,black,shorter than these and full length threaded Did I see Torx bolt heads? Good move. Allen headed bolts are not durable in high torque situations. Edited July 28, 2018 by SpondonBassed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saved Posted July 28, 2018 Author Share Posted July 28, 2018 (edited) 1 hour ago, SpondonBassed said: Did I see Torx bolt heads? Good move. Allen headed bolts are not durable in high torque situations. No.They are allen headed bolts. I didnt knew that torx bolts are better. I will try to find torx bolts and replace the allen bolts. Thank you for your advice Edited July 28, 2018 by Saved Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 8 minutes ago, Saved said: No.They are allen headed bolts. I didnt knew that torx bolts are better. I will try to find torx bolts and replace the allen bolts. Thank you for your advice You are welcome. The biggest problem with Allen headed bolts is that you tend to get poorly made Allen keys. It is possible to get high quality keys that drive from the flank as opposed to the points of the hexagonal cross section. They will prolong the life of the internal wrenching surface of the bolt. Such keys are expensive. Even if you have a set, it just takes one slip with a cheap key to compromise the socket in the bolt head. This is called camming out as mentioned in the extract below. With Torx fasteners, the socket shape is complex and both the bolts and the keys are made to tighter tolerances. That is not to say that you can't find poorly made Torx keys. It just means that you are less likely to find them than with Allen keys. In this application the bolts will be used time and time again for string changes hence my recommendation. From the Wikipedia description: "The hexalobular socket screw drive, often referred to by the original proprietary brand name Torx ( /ˈtɔːrks/) or by the alternative generic name star drive, uses a star-shaped recess in the fastener with six rounded points. It was designed to permit increased torque transfer from the driver to the bit compared to other drive systems. The drive was developed in 1967[44] by Camcar Textron.[45] Torx is very popular in the automotive and electronics industries because of resistance to cam out, and extended bit life, as well as reduced operator fatigue by minimizing the need to bear down on the drive tool to prevent cam out. A tamper-resistant Security Torx head has a small pin inside the recess. Owing to its six-fold symmetry, a Torx driver can also be used as an improvised substitute for a hex driver, although careful sizing is critical to prevent stripping the socket." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BreadBin Posted July 28, 2018 Share Posted July 28, 2018 Just to confirm that @SpondonBassed is completely correct, I work in an engineering company and we have recently changed to Torx type fixings for all high torque applications. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saved Posted July 31, 2018 Author Share Posted July 31, 2018 35mm long screw,2mm thick drill to open the hole,5mm thick of the screw 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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