New to straplocks

[bonzodog]

I recently purchased some schaller strap locks for the first time and am struggling to feel confident with using them.
I have a fairly thick strap and am aware that i have to cut away part of the strap to get the washer to lie flat. However, cutting as much away as possible means i can only just about get the nut on a couple of turns. I tried them with my fender strap and thats not much better. The nut once tightened barely shows any of the visible thread. I used them on my bass last night and they worked fine but i was constantly worried all night it was going to come undone.
I cant understand why they dont make the thread just a little bit longer so you can see it once the nut is on.
Am i being overly cautious?

[Cuzzie]

Yes and no, my Levy strap is thick and i had to go without the washer.

I just check it before i use it and tighten with my leather man

[ambient]

Dunlops are better designed I think.

[lownote]

Totally a Dunlop fan boy

[Bobthedog]

Whilst many have had no problem at all with schaller locks, I gave up two years ago as the nuts kept loosening themselves. No matter how tight. I also had the same issue you have with very little thread left due to thick straps, however, none actually came off. It became boring very quickly having to worry about them each time I picked up a bass. I am Dunlop now and have had zero issues or fears.

[bonzodog]

I fear i did not research these enough as it looks like the dunlop are more secure.

[28mistertee]

I used Schaller for a while then I bought a bass with Dunlops already fitted and never looked back, far superior imo.

[jazzyvee]

I have schallers on all my basses and yes I think they could put a couple more threads on the strap fitting. But I tighten mine up really well and so far not had any fall off yet and i've replaced the bass part of the system on only one bass. Over time anything that moves will eventually wear out or come loose so just with all things It pays to check now and again and retighten as neccesary.
One of my basses came with dunlops but since all the rest had schallers I put schallers on instead for no more reason than consistency.

[NancyJohnson]

My old Rickenbacker had Schaller compatible straplocks fitted as standard and while they worked fine, I'd never retrofit Schallers to any of my guitars. Dunlop all the way here.

[jazzyvee]

[quote name='hiram.k.hackenbacker' timestamp='1492330684' post='3279390']
I'm not going to defend Schaller's as I'm aware they do have their faults, especially in getting the strap part fitted to something like a nice Levy's leather. What tends to happen is the hole is never big enough on the strap to take the Schaller and in forcing it through the existing gap, it bunches the leather around the hole and exaserbates the problem. To this end I purchased a set of leather hole punches. They were dead cheap ones from eBay and there is one in the set that is just the right circumference for Schallers. One clump with a hammer and the hole is trimmed perfectly to accept the Schaller without bunching the leather.

In an ideal world I would love Dunlop Flush Mounted Locks fitted on all my basses. Fodera fit them as standard and I love 'em, but Im not taking a drill to and of my basses that don't already have them
[/quote]
In my case the bass was bought used and the previous owner was a luthier and he fitted dunlops in a different place and pluged the screw holes with dowel and a mother of pearl plug so it was just a case of redrilling the original holes. I haven't removed the dunlops but just don't use them.

[T-Bay]

[quote name='hiram.k.hackenbacker' timestamp='1492330684' post='3279390']
I'm not going to defend Schaller's as I'm aware they do have their faults, especially in getting the strap part fitted to something like a nice Levy's leather. What tends to happen is the hole is never big enough on the strap to take the Schaller and in forcing it through the existing gap, it bunches the leather around the hole and exaserbates the problem. To this end I purchased a set of leather hole punches. They were dead cheap ones from eBay and there is one in the set that is just the right circumference for Schallers. One clump with a hammer and the hole is trimmed perfectly to accept the Schaller without bunching the leather.

In an ideal world I would love Dunlop Flush Mounted Locks fitted on all my basses. Fodera fit them as standard and I love 'em, but Im not taking a drill to and of my basses that don't already have them
[/quote]
This^^^^^^ cork borers are also perfect and readily available in exact metric and imperial sizes.

[geoffbyrne]

I've tried all, I think, of the common brands of straplocks. I've found that if they have a nut or a bolt fixing, it will eventually come loose and a tragedy may happen. I've been a bit lucky but there were one or two close calls.

Dunlop Straplocks have no nuts or bolts - they use a circlip concept that is much more difficult to defeat. I have no problems with them so far and I've been using them for about 12 years.

G.

Edited April 17, 2017 by geoffbyrne

[bertbass]

I put a dab of clear nail varnish on the tightened nut and thread just to be sure.

[Matt P]

i'm a schaller fanboy, you do need to enlarge the hole in the strap to get a nice flat fit, i use a dab of threadlock on the threads to keep the nut in place, i didn't used to bother and never had an issue with any of my straps but i keep a bottle of threadlock on my bench now so use it as a belt and braces insurance.

i had a good look at the designs of the different straplock designs before i bought them and the schaller design makes more sense in my head, i never trusted the dunlop design with the internal locking method, all of my engineering schooling gives me no confidence in the dunlop design, the idea of the wweight and the locking device on the pin inside of the button seems wrong, a bit of wear and i'd be afraid of it letting go mid-gig whilst the schaller design has the "cup" of the straplock to take the weight and the pin as a locking device.

Matt

[stingrayPete1977]

Anyone that designs something with rotational movement using a nut to secure it needs a slap

[stingrayPete1977]

[quote name='Matt P' timestamp='1492343070' post='3279506']
i'm a schaller fanboy, you do need to enlarge the hole in the strap to get a nice flat fit, i use a dab of threadlock on the threads to keep the nut in place, i didn't used to bother and never had an issue with any of my straps but i keep a bottle of threadlock on my bench now so use it as a belt and braces insurance.

i had a good look at the designs of the different straplock designs before i bought them and the schaller design makes more sense in my head, i never trusted the dunlop design with the internal locking method, all of my engineering schooling gives me no confidence in the dunlop design, the idea of the wweight and the locking device on the pin inside of the button seems wrong, a bit of wear and i'd be afraid of it letting go mid-gig whilst the schaller design has the "cup" of the straplock to take the weight and the pin as a locking device.

Matt
[/quote]

You'd probably best not look into aircraft construction next time you fly if you dislike the idea of Cleco style fixings.

That 'cup' you prefer is a chocolate fire guard once the nut comes off the strap!

[Matt P]

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1492343400' post='3279513']
You'd probably best not look into aircraft construction next time you fly if you dislike the idea of Cleco style fixings.

That 'cup' you prefer is a chocolate fire guard once the nut comes off the strap!
[/quote]

I've never had a nut come off in 20 years of using them (only 5 years of using threadlock) the rotational movement is the cup around the button, the nut is there to lock the strap against the body of the lock (with a washer as per good design practice), there ate 3 little pins on the body of the lock to stop rotation.

i believe that Cleco fasteners are for temporarily holding sheet material in position prior to fastening with rivets (that's certainly the only time i've seen them used.)

Matt

[chris_b]

Dunlops all the way.

The Schallers have a reputation for coming unscrewed!

Have a look at All Parts Strap Loks. They are rebadged Dunlops and are a lot cheaper.

[markstuk]

Dimarizio strap locks for me - although you have to use their straps..

[NancyJohnson]

It's funny how things evolve. Years ago, I'd be hassling anyone in earshot to save me the little plastic things that they used to put on bread packaging or the rubber washers from bottles of Grolsch.

[stingrayPete1977]

[quote name='Matt P' timestamp='1492344770' post='3279524']


I've never had a nut come off in 20 years of using them (only 5 years of using threadlock) the rotational movement is the cup around the button, the nut is there to lock the strap against the body of the lock (with a washer as per good design practice), there ate 3 little pins on the body of the lock to stop rotation.

i believe that Cleco fasteners are for temporarily holding sheet material in position prior to fastening with rivets (that's certainly the only time i've seen them used.)

Matt
[/quote]

The same fastners are used on any covers that need to be removed for inspection.

[EBS_freak]

I wrote a guide many moons ago that spells it out so even the most anti DIY guy knows what to do -

http://basschat.co.uk/topic/70420-schaller-strap-locks-and-how-to-fit-them-properly/

[JapanAxe]

Grolsch washers for me. I just leave the strap on the whole time.

[linear]

Out of interest, has anyone tried the Loxx brand of straplocks?

[stingrayPete1977]

[quote name='EBS_freak' timestamp='1492347444' post='3279550']
I wrote a guide many moons ago that spells it out so even the most anti DIY guy knows what to do -

http://basschat.co.uk/topic/70420-schaller-strap-locks-and-how-to-fit-them-properly/
[/quote]

That's a great guide Russ but I've just written a new guide to get over all those issues, no extra tools to buy, no leather work skills, no drilling your bass or cocktail sticks;







Fit Dunlops!