Creating a lined Fretless

[Count Bassy]

I have a Warwick Rockbass 32" Corvette 5 string fretted, which I really like (Will review at some point, honest).

In fact I like it so much that I'd really like a lined fretless version as well. Warwick make an otherwise identical fretless version, but it's unlined.

So, do I buy another fretted one and de-fret it and modify the nut etc, OR do I buy an unlined fretless one, and add the lines in myself?
(positioning of the lines would not be any problem to me).

Note that I do not want this to become a Lined Vs Unlined debate. I just want opinions on which approach would give me the best result.

Thoughts/opinions please.

Edited April 27, 2017 by Count Bassy

[hubrad]

Does the fretted version have the right fingerboard wood for your fretless taste?
If yes, defretted. If no, make lines.
IMHO

[BigRedX]

Everything else being equal (the fretted and fretless versions are identical other than the absence or presence of frets), for me it would come down to two things:

1. Potential damage to the fingerboard from removing the frets vs cutting the slots for the lines accurately.

2. Where you want the side dots? - on the fretted version they will be between the frets, whereas on the fretless version they would probably be at the position the fret would have been. If you want to move them how much extra work would it be?

[leschirons]

Despite not being a luthier, I've defretted three basses in the past, two jazz basses and one stingray copy. All turned out great. Lifting frets can be a little dangerous if it's a really old fingerboard but otherwise, not a problem. I bought a cheap sheet of veneer to fill the slots on two of them and simply used filler (plastic wood) on one of the jazz basses. Didn't bother repositioning any side dots as can't really see them anyway at my age. I did however put semi rounds on the Stingray and flats on the jazzes. All sounded superb after a bit of a setup.

[DaveFry]

I would create lines on the unlined board by bleaching them thus ;

Get a roll of pinstriping automotive tape of the width you want and put them where you want the lines to be .
Once you are happy that they are in the right places , then mask up to them each side with wider masking tape .
Remove the first stripes to leave the lines you want to bleach , then dab on wood bleach with a cotton bud as many times as it takes to get the result you want .
Remove the masking .

This method allows you to check that they are in the right places before committing to permanent change .

[dlloyd]

I've defretted basses in the past.

Dry wood can be an issue on a rosewood board... more prone to chipping as you remove the frets... this can be deal with by oiling the board carefully and having some wood glue to hand when you're pulling the frets.

Filler works fine... I'd only use veneer for aesthetics.

Superglue is as good a finish as any.

[Count Bassy]

Thanks for your thoughts people. Some very interesting points.

I hadn't even thought of the fret-board material. Checked it out and the fretted is rosewood, the fretless is 'Tiger stripe' ebony.
- I've only really played an Ibanez GWB35 extensively which is ebanol (i.e. plastic), so I don't actually know which I'd prefer sound wise

Also I hadn't considered the side dots potentially being in the wrong place on the fretted one.

I'm also guessing that if I went with the fretless then the nut would be set for a fretless, but this is Chinese made so I wouldn't be surprised if it wasn't
(the nut set up was way too high on the fretted one when it arrived), so I might be leaning towards starting with the unlined fretless .


Thanks again. Any further comments still gratefully received.

[Grangur]

As you dont yet own the bass, play a genuine fretless Warwick bass before you convert one. Try it out and get a good feel for it.

You also have to think about the re-sale value; which will be more saleable?

I've got a 4 string fretless LX if you're interested in giving it a go. I'm a bit of a drive from you, but it's nothing when you think of the money involved.

Edited April 28, 2017 by Grangur

[xgsjx]

Sharpie FTW!

[MrDaveTheBass]

If you're cutting slots in an ebony board, remember that ebony is very hard and that you're going to get through several saw blades.

(I don't want to start the lined/unlined debate, but I recently went through a similar decision process recently. I started out with an unlined board, and was looking for a replacement lined neck. However, after a couple of months I've got used to the unlined board, so can no longer see the point of adding lines to it).

I guess what I'm trying to say is get an unlined neck, try it for a month or two and then decide if you want it lined or not.

[Count Bassy]

Again, all good points. Thanks.

A very kind offer Grangur - may take you up on it at some point, although I might first ask around locally to see if anyone's got a warwick fretless.

[SteveK]

Without doubt, I would buy a fretless and have the lines added... by a professional! I did exactly that about 20 years ago! I had a Warwick Thumb unmarked fretless, and took it to Chandlers who lined it, and did an immaculate job.
IMV unless you have the appropriate jigs, tools, knowledge and experience you won't get a professional result.

Edited April 28, 2017 by SteveK