Which oil for a neck?

[Marc S]

I recently bought a cheap neck, for a cheapo project bass. It's OK - nothing special, but that's fine & suits my purposes.

However, the previous owner had done some work to it, and basically sanded the Rosewood fretboard, and sanded the varnish, of the presumably Maple, back of the neck....

I finely sanded the rosewood board and treated it with Lemon oil - and result! It has mostly restored it to it's former glory. I wanted to try oiling the back of the neck, rather than varnishing it - so I applied some Lemon oil to that too, and it hasn't really achieved very much...

What's the best oil to treat the back of the neck with? He asks, not having tried before...

Cheers all

[LewisK1975]

I've used gunstock oil on a sanded body before and that turned out nice. Not sure about a neck though.

This was the stuff I used, picked it up at a gun / tackle shop: - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Birchwood-Casey-Tru-Stock-Finish/dp/B01LZG42G0

[dannybuoy]

Tru Oil (as above) definitely gets the most recommendations that I've seen. Some more great tips here:

http://basschat.co.uk/topic/302100-allparts-unfinished-neck-minimum-effort/page__view__findpost__p__3256830

[Grangur]

The one I prefer is Boiled Linseed oil. You can get it in most DIY retail sheds.

It's easy to use. Apply it in a good coat with a cloth or kitchen towel. Let it soak in for a bit, then wipe it off and buff it up with an old rag. A couple of coats has it looking pretty good.

A tip when using any oil - when finished rinse the cloth out in water and let it dry naturally, then throw it out. I know this doesn't sound like it makes sense. but oil cloths can self combust in a waste bin. Doing this stops the risk.

[hamfist]

I use Colron danish oil (from B&Q) - two coats, and then Briwax (available everywhere) -again a couple of coats.

If you're starting with nice smooth wood you will get a beautiful and hard-wearing natural satin finish. I've done loads of bodies (ash, maple and alder) and a couple of necks (both maple) with this method, all have turned out superbly.

[rubis]

Another to consider is Liberon finishing oil, same kind of stuff as those already mentioned, it's a polymerised oil, so it goes on like oil but dries more like a varnish
Same technique as the others, I've used it on bodies and necks, if you do a lot of coats, its best to flatten it after 3 or so with 0000 wire wool, then add more coats. You can polish it to a gloss or wire wool it to a matt sheen
Easier to repair than lacquer as well, and easily available in diy shops

[Marc S]

[quote name='hamfist' timestamp='1495456767' post='3303839']
I use Colron danish oil (from B&Q) - two coats, and then Briwax (available everywhere) -again a couple of coats.

If you're starting with nice smooth wood you will get a beautiful and hard-wearing natural satin finish. I've done loads of bodies (ash, maple and alder) and a couple of necks (both maple) with this method, all have turned out superbly.
[/quote]

Thanks for the tips folks
hamfist, I take it that you apply the wax on a rag and work it in by hand, then sort of "buff it up" to finish?

[BassBod]

Tru Oil is great and probably the easiest, although does have health warnings (!) My favourite is Liberon Tung oil, diluted with white spirit. then an occasional Warwick wax coat just to keep it clean. The Warwick stuff is pricey but is very thin, so doesn't build up to a shine very much.

[Joeyfivebags]

[Andyjr1515]

For me, it's Tru Oil slurry and buffed everytime.

Basically you apply a couple of coats, allowed to soak in and dry.

Then apply the oil with fine grade wet n dry (400 or 800 grit), using the oil as the wet. This creates a wood / oil slurry that fills the pores and grain. Within a few minutes, wipe it all off, back down to the wood and let it dry.

Repeat this step and let it dry overnight.

Repeat the step, but now not only wipe the slurry off, but vigorously buff it up to a dry shine. Let it fully dry and then one more buff for good measure. If you've missed a bit that isn't silky smooth to the touch, just repeat the final step.

As Grangur says, let the rags dry laid out to avoid risk of spontaneous combustion and also best to wear latex or nitrile gloves - it's a messy job and some people are sensitive to the oil.

The result will be a super-silky smooth neck that still feels like wood. Wonderful!

Edited May 22, 2017 by Andyjr1515

[hamfist]

[quote name='Marc S' timestamp='1495457402' post='3303852']
Thanks for the tips folks
hamfist, I take it that you apply the wax on a rag and work it in by hand, then sort of "buff it up" to finish?
[/quote]

Yes, the danish oil is applied with a lint-free rag and just left to dry. Ideally give it a [u]very[/u] light dry rub over with something like 1000 or 2000 grit wet/dry paper after each coat.

The wax is simply wipe on, and then buff a few minutes later. The entire process can be done in about 24-36 hours if you get your timings right.

[Grangur]

[quote name='hamfist' timestamp='1495468620' post='3303952']
Yes, the danish oil is applied with a lint-free rag and just left to dry. Ideally give it a [u]very[/u] light dry rub over with something like 1000 or 2000 grit wet/dry paper after each coat.

The wax is simply wipe on, and then buff a few minutes later. The entire process can be done in about 24-36 hours if you get your timings right.
[/quote]
This is a good idea to get rid off any nibby bits stuck to the wood in the oil. If you want to do this on the cheap; use the back of some old glasspaper (sandpaper to others). The back has enough friction to get rid of the lumps, but won't wear through the oil coat.

This trick is also good for lacquer, except with lacquer, DO make sure the lacquer is dry enough or you'll make an unholy mess of it.

[Dan Dare]

[quote name='Joeyfivebags' timestamp='1495463612' post='3303914']

[/quote]

Beat me to it