Groove Harder Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 Oh no... nightmare! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 Bummer. You're not going to let that stop you though are you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SH73 Posted December 20, 2017 Author Share Posted December 20, 2017 (edited) 4 hours ago, SpondonBassed said: Bummer. You're not going to let that stop you though are you? Not at all. Thinking same colour as I had visualized the final product. I was so close. Now have two projects on the go and both need repainting. Edited December 20, 2017 by SH73 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SH73 Posted April 10, 2018 Author Share Posted April 10, 2018 The guitar is still not done. The weather has been too cold to spray paint. Now the body has been almost prepared for spray painting (it's now a bare wood body) I wonder what type of products would you chaps recommend. I'm thinking of cellulose sealant followed by nitriocellulose primer, then paint and lacquer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SH73 Posted May 8, 2018 Author Share Posted May 8, 2018 (edited) Change of plan guitar will be white with black hard wear. It's been sanded down and resprayed with filler/primer then sprayed with white primer. Tomorrow is the final coat and lacquer. Edited May 23, 2018 by SH73 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SH73 Posted May 10, 2018 Author Share Posted May 10, 2018 (edited) Red coat and lacquer applied. it turned out pretty good thanks to errors I've learnt from. Edited May 23, 2018 by SH73 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SH73 Posted May 10, 2018 Author Share Posted May 10, 2018 (edited) Both guitars finished with lacquer. 2k on red and nitrocellulose on white. Minor imperfection. I'll leave them to cure for three weeks. I like how the white turned out. The wood grain is visible. Edited May 10, 2018 by SH73 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SH73 Posted May 10, 2018 Author Share Posted May 10, 2018 (edited) . Edited May 23, 2018 by SH73 . 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted May 10, 2018 Share Posted May 10, 2018 (edited) 27 minutes ago, SH73 said: do I go straight to compound and polish. I think I prefer the latter as I might get carried away with sanding Cutting compounds can remove more material than you think. Generally speaking, they are intended for use on orange peel defects or for removal of the thin oxide layer on older exposed paintwork. They are not good for dressing out runs in the paintwork. You might not spots the signs of break through as easily as with dry abrasive because you are making a paste of the same colour as your paint. Only when you wipe it clean can you see if you've gone too far Fine grade dry abrasive paper or cloth is less of a pain. Micromesh pads are highly recommended by a few Basschat builders. You MUST have good lighting to do this without snags though. I think that there are a couple of different standards for grit classification but I'd try a dry an 800 first on a safe test piece to get the feel of how much of a cut it is taking. If that's okay on a flat surface, I'd then use 1200 on the edges for added safety. Edited May 10, 2018 by SpondonBassed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SH73 Posted May 10, 2018 Author Share Posted May 10, 2018 39 minutes ago, SpondonBassed said: Cutting compounds can remove more material than you think. Generally speaking, they are intended for use on orange peel defects or for removal of the thin oxide layer on older exposed paintwork. They are not good for dressing out runs in the paintwork. You might not spots the signs of break through as easily as with dry abrasive because you are making a paste of the same colour as your paint. Only when you wipe it clean can you see if you've gone too far Fine grade dry abrasive paper or cloth is less of a pain. Micromesh pads are highly recommended by a few Basschat builders. You MUST have good lighting to do this without snags though. I think that there are a couple of different standards for grit classification but I'd try a dry an 800 first on a safe test piece to get the feel of how much of a cut it is taking. If that's okay on a flat surface, I'd then use 1200 on the edges for added safety. Agreed. I've learnt an expensive and invaluable lesson. Think the safest option is to let it cure then polish like car paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted May 12, 2018 Share Posted May 12, 2018 On 10/05/2018 at 07:20, SH73 said: I know it's been a long journey, but those are starting to look special Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SH73 Posted May 12, 2018 Author Share Posted May 12, 2018 Just now, Andyjr1515 said: I know it's been a long journey, but those are starting to look special They will be. So tempted to start assembling them. The white one is sprayed with nitrocellulose paint and lacquer and it's advisable to cure it three weeks. I used a car specialist paint (not Halfords) and 2 k lacquer which can be mechanically polished after 16 hours. I wait a week before assembling and maybe void sanding and polishing, but then who knows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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