Andyjr1515 Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 53 minutes ago, TheGreek said: Hint of a Swift on the back??? Not really, I suspect, Mick I'll post a shot of the work-in-progress shortly - even when I squint my eyes I can't see any swifts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 2 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said: ...I don't really have the perfect carving tools (or the talent!) to do this - and I'm hopeless at pre-imagining what the shapes will do all around -and so will take it very slowly. Probably will take me the rest of the day. One quite pretty BBQ log coming up! I'd tell you not to whittle and have a bit more self confidence if it wasn't at odds with what you are undertaking. Heeheehee. I can feel your anticipation. With your cautious approach you'll be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 12 minutes ago, SpondonBassed said: I'd tell you not to whittle and have a bit more self confidence if it wasn't at odds with what you are undertaking. Heeheehee. I can feel your anticipation. With your cautious approach you'll be fine. To be honest, it's more about knowing your capabilities and when to, or not to, wade in with the size 12's Especially when you take what would be a perfectly acceptable neck and then do THIS with it! But, with a bit more work, it became this: Then, with still a bit of fine-tuning to do, it started getting to where I think I was trying to take it: I could cut deeper than this, but to be honest, from a playing point of view, this gets me up to the 22nd fret with not the slightest feeling on the fretting thumb that I've reached the body . I'm going to classify that as 'objective met' 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted January 7, 2018 Share Posted January 7, 2018 (edited) It certainly isn't offensive on the eye either. The decision to balance out the cut above centreline was good. Edited January 7, 2018 by SpondonBassed 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted January 7, 2018 Author Share Posted January 7, 2018 6 minutes ago, SpondonBassed said: It certainly isn't offensive on the eye either. The decision to balance out the cut above centreline was good. Thanks! And the present weight, by the way for anyone counting, is 4lbs 4oz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted January 10, 2018 Author Share Posted January 10, 2018 I am going to use the same template for the headstock as I used for Tim's Alembic-esque build. First job is to add a couple of wings from offcut from the neck: I then coaxed my bandsaw to cut a couple of thin slices from some camphor-laurel offcut for the headstock plate and the control chamber cover: This is basically how the whole thing will look: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted January 11, 2018 Author Share Posted January 11, 2018 (edited) Swifts are now in flight : And also started the tru-oil slurry and buff - at this stage more to show up better the lumpy bits, sandpaper scratches and dinks to get rid of in the final sanding. The dinks and scratches on the sapele here are all but invisible on the sanded wood. See how much it shows all the aberrations up: I also use tru-oil slurry and buff nowadays as the gap filler and grain filler all in one. The body will be finished in gloss Osmo Polyx (with which, unlike the semi-matt and satin, I've had some problems with before, although pretty sure it was me and not the Osmo...). I'm amazed how well the slurry and buff has filled the VERY hole-y camphor-laurel! In the meantime, final sanding has now started, getting rid of the above dinks and scratches and also rounding off some of the sharp or bumpy edges: I've set myself a target of end of next week for the basic build to be finished, with a week or so on top of that before the final polish... ...provided, of course, I don't make any last minute c**k-ups! Edited January 11, 2018 by Andyjr1515 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimothey Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 26 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said: Swifts are now in flight : And also started the tru-oil slurry and buff - at this stage more to show up better the lumpy bits, sandpaper scratches and dinks to get rid of in the final sanding. The dinks and scratches on the sapele here are all but invisible on the sanded wood. See how much it shows all the aberrations up: I also use tru-oil slurry and buff nowadays as the gap filler and grain filler all in one. The body will be finished in gloss Osmo Polyx (with which, unlike the semi-matt and satin, I've had some problems with before, although pretty sure it was me and not the Osmo...). I'm amazed how well the slurry and buff has filled the VERY hole-y camphor-laurel! In the meantime, final sanding has now started, getting rid of the above dinks and scratches and also rounding off some of the sharp or bumpy edges: I've set myself a target of end of next week for the basic build to be finished, with a week or so on top of that before the final polish... ...provided, of course, I don't make any last minute c**k-ups! Looking really nice can’t wait to see it in all its polished glory!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 1 hour ago, Andyjr1515 said: Swifts are now in flight : <snip> I've set myself a target of end of next week for the basic build to be finished, with a week or so on top of that before the final polish... ...provided, of course, I don't make any last minute c**k-ups! I've been meaning to ask about the camphor laurel; does it have a particular odour on sanding? My mate had something called amazeeky (phonetic spelling) on one of his uke kits' tops which stank summat rotten. The smell of sanding dust was a bit like vomit! It was worth the unpleasantness because the red and green streaks that were a feature of the grain came out really well under a yacht varnish gloss coat. I'm hoping camphor laurel is a bit sweeter smelling. May I ask what material you do your swift inlays with please? My latest bass purchase has something called abalone for the fret markers. I've always liked a well presented inlay. It's something I might have a lickle go at for myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted January 11, 2018 Author Share Posted January 11, 2018 1 minute ago, SpondonBassed said: I've been meaning to ask about the camphor laurel; does it have a particular odour on sanding? My mate had something called amazeeky (phonetic spelling) on one of his uke kits' tops which stank summat rotten. The smell of sanding dust was a bit like vomit! It was worth the unpleasantness because the red and green streaks that were a feature of the grain came out really well under a yacht varnish gloss coat. I'm hoping camphor laurel is a bit sweeter smelling. May I ask what material you do your swift inlays with please? My latest bass purchase has something called abalone for the fret markers. I've always liked a well presented inlay. It's something I might have a lickle go at for myself. Hi, John The camphor-laurel is pleasant smelling when sanded - I suppose hence the 'camphor' bit of its name (true camphor has a very strong and relatively pleasant smell). I agree - amazaque (which I think is the same as ovangkol?) smells rank. In this particular build, it is the small amount of purpleheart that stinks the most - it is as equally dire as amazaque! The swift inlays are just standard white mother of pearl. Abalone can be quite brilliantly coloured but I prefer the more staid MoP look generally. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 1 minute ago, Andyjr1515 said: Hi, John The camphor-laurel is pleasant smelling when sanded - I suppose hence the 'camphor' bit of its name (true camphor has a very strong and relatively pleasant smell). I agree - amazaque (which I think is the same as ovangkol?) smells rank. In this particular build, it is the small amount of purpleheart that stinks the most - it is as equally dire as amazaque! The swift inlays are just standard white mother of pearl. Abalone can be quite brilliantly coloured but I prefer the more staid MoP look generally. I'd have preferred LEDs myself if mother of pearl wasn't available and I don't normally like front facing LEDs. I think you made the better choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted January 11, 2018 Author Share Posted January 11, 2018 So next challenge is fitting in the electrics. Or should I say 'getting electrics to fit'! I have quite deliberately started with the depth I wanted and then moved on to how I am going to get everything to fit rather than starting with the 'conventional' switches and plugs and then moving on to how slim I can get to Yes - madness, I know. In terms of jack, I know that I'll be looking at a Switchcraft mono barrel jack. Even the Switchcraft ones aren't foolproof but there are loads of electrics and acoustics out there fitted with them - and this is for my own use - so I'll just make sure I've always got a spare guitar if I get round to gigging this one. In terms of pots, they will fit (standard ones will - push pull won't). The three way might have to be a mini - but I'll check first the dimensions of the rightangled Switchcraft right angled ones - they might fit. I will be splitting the humbuckers but will probably use mini toggles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 8 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said: So next challenge is fitting in the electrics. Or should I say 'getting electrics to fit'! I have quite deliberately started with the depth I wanted and then moved on to how I am going to get everything to fit rather than starting with the 'conventional' switches and plugs and then moving on to how slim I can get to Yes - madness, I know. In terms of jack, I know that I'll be looking at a Switchcraft mono barrel jack. Even the Switchcraft ones aren't foolproof but there are loads of electrics and acoustics out there fitted with them - and this is for my own use - so I'll just make sure I've always got a spare guitar if I get round to gigging this one. In terms of pots, they will fit (standard ones will - push pull won't). The three way might have to be a mini - but I'll check first the dimensions of the rightangled Switchcraft right angled ones - they might fit. I will be splitting the humbuckers but will probably use mini toggles I'm quite interested in splitting the humbuckers on my Pit Bull. I'll enjoy the benefit of seeing how you get on first with a bit of luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted January 11, 2018 Author Share Posted January 11, 2018 (edited) 1 hour ago, SpondonBassed said: I'm quite interested in splitting the humbuckers on my Pit Bull. I'll enjoy the benefit of seeing how you get on first with a bit of luck. For 6-string electrics, having splittable humbuckers is becoming 'almost standard'. The reason I'm doing it on this one is: It's dead simple to wire It can be useful on a 6-string electric because of how much treble is lost when running through a PA (even with a DI box). Generally when I'm practicing through a guitar amp, I would have full humbucker, but usually on a gig (we run everything through the PA) I would tend to use both pickups together, with the neck at full humbucker and the bridge split (and sometimes the other way round). That way I find I can retain the breadth of tone without sacrificing volume. The buckers split on their own (with the exception of P-Rails on the P-90 setting) generally tend to be too weedy and not in a good 'proper' single-coil way.... I don't really have an informed opinion with a bass but would expect the benefits to more limited. Edited January 11, 2018 by Andyjr1515 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted January 11, 2018 Share Posted January 11, 2018 I am wanting to play with pole reversals and series/parallel combos to get my ear in on what it's all about. The HBs that came from Australia are unbranded but they put out a substantial output compared to others I know. They are ideal for this sort of hack. Now that I have the actual Ibanez that my kit was loosely based upon the Pit Bull is a test bed for me to play about with. It is interesting to hear your reasoning from a guitarist's point of view too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted January 12, 2018 Author Share Posted January 12, 2018 Before I start routing out the bottom of the control chamber, I like to drill at least a couple of the pot holes just to give myself a second check of thickness in addition to the rather splendid Crimson caliper measure. The only concessions so far on electrics ref the very thin body is going to a barrel jack and a switchcraft angled toggle three-way. The chamber will be plenty deep enough for the pots and the mini toggles. Both the 3-way and the barrel are on order so I won't drill all the holes until I have them here, but at its most basic, this is what I'll have (conventional 3-way in the photo): Almost certainly, I will add a second volume pot to go: vol; vol; master tone; split neck; split bridge. Looking at this and the specs of the parts on order, it should all fit fine I was happy to drill the holes for the first two pots to give me that extra reference point for thickness before getting out a bearing-bitted router out to deepen the chamber: This leaves me with 3mm at its thinnest and 5mm at its thickest. I could go a touch thinner for most of the area, but I shouldn't need to - so won't until and unless I do need to. And that brings the finished body weight - including the hatch - to just a touch over 4lbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted January 13, 2018 Author Share Posted January 13, 2018 Well, I think I'm on the home straight for this one. The finishing proper has started. Having used tru-oil slurry-and-wipe as my general grain and void filler, I've then lightly sanded that and now applied a very thin wipe-coat of Osmo Polyx 3011 Gloss, just using my usual choice of dirt-cheap microfibre cloth: I will let this dry overnight before applying the second coat. One of the reasons for me being patient (and it's a strain!) is that, while I've have great success with the Osmo satin and also their whitening 'RAW' version, I have had an issue the one time I tried their gloss. On the second coat it wrinkled and orange-peeled. Now, to be honest, I have no patience with finishes that are super sensitive - it's why I keep away from many of the more traditional guitar finishing products. Life's too short. Having said that, I'm pretty sure my problem with the Osmo gloss was that I simply applied the second coat too soon. The satin and matt versions were not at all reactive. It would be nice to get a modern very low VOC gloss that actually works and can be wiped on....hence the patience 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGreek Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 Wow...amazing how much difference there's been as a result of polishing!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 1 hour ago, Andyjr1515 said: Well, I think I'm on the home straight for this one. The finishing proper has started. Having used tru-oil slurry-and-wipe as my general grain and void filler, I've then lightly sanded that and now applied a very thin wipe-coat of Osmo Polyx 3011 Gloss, just using my usual choice of dirt-cheap microfibre cloth: <snip> One of the reasons for me being patient (and it's a strain!) is that, while I've have great success with the Osmo satin and also their whitening 'RAW' version, I have had an issue the one time I tried their gloss. On the second coat it wrinkled and orange-peeled. Now, to be honest, I have no patience with finishes that are super sensitive - it's why I keep away from many of the more traditional guitar finishing products. Life's too short. Having said that, I'm pretty sure my problem with the Osmo gloss was that I simply applied the second coat too soon. The satin and matt versions were not at all reactive. It would be nice to get a modern very low VOC gloss that actually works and can be wiped on....hence the patience I had that softening and expanding effect on the kit build recently. I built up a wipe on, wipe off finish in multiple passes with 24 hours between. With little or no flattening other than to dress out specks the layered coat was thick enough to stand up noticeably after the fifth pass. I think the solvent in the newest coat caused the previous layers to expand and make wrinkles in places. I stopped immediately before it became really noticeable. To be honest, I wondered if maybe I had left too long an interval between coats. I made a note to try 12 hours intervals if I did that treatment again. That was Teak Oil. Orange peel in your case however suggests that there is something else wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted January 14, 2018 Author Share Posted January 14, 2018 Second coat looking good: 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted January 15, 2018 Author Share Posted January 15, 2018 Sorted the bridge and ferrule drill holes (it's thru-body stringing) and, after trying both in a mock-up, settled on black pickup rings with gold screws rather than the other way round. I'm doing all of the jobs that might dint the soft finish before a final flattening and the last couple of gloss coats on the body. This is how it's starting to look. Pretty sure, by the way, that the slightly skew look of the pickups is the wide angle lens and not the actual fitting - although, with me, anything is possible : 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 23 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said: ...settled on black pickup rings with gold screws rather than the other way round... See this is why I like your style. To have the black and gold the other way 'round would just be vulgar. (Retires to flame proof bunker in advance of the Bling Bling Brigade's response) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted January 19, 2018 Author Share Posted January 19, 2018 OK - I'll do the finished pics once I've done a full polish and got a proper tone knob - and straightened up and glued the loose ferrules! And it still has to be set up, etc.. But, visually, it's pretty much done. Where did that pesky heel go???? Not set up at all, but I have to say it plays pretty well straight off the bench. The neck feels nice, but it is more Fender 'C' than my preferred soft 'V' - I will fettle this over the weekend to suit my playing style (I always do the last shaping once the strings are on and I can really feel how it plays. It balances nicely on the strap - but is a little heavier than I was aiming for. Pre the extra fettling and using heavy solid brass knobs (I'm on the lookout for some nice wooden ones), I'm coming in at over 5 3/4lbs, which is 3-4oz heavier than planned. Not bad, though... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimothey Posted January 19, 2018 Share Posted January 19, 2018 (edited) Stunning looking guitar!!! Once again very jealous of the job you’ve done!!! Edited January 19, 2018 by Jimothey 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezbass Posted January 19, 2018 Share Posted January 19, 2018 That is all 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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