A couple of P builds

[Bridgehouse]

Got some primer on.

[Bridgehouse]

Also, managed to get some Daphne Blue on:

[Bridgehouse]

Now prior to applying a clear gloss top coat, I wanted to start the relic process good and proper.

First thing is to tint the Daphne Blue to age it and give it some "UV fade" (or at least some fade of some description!)

Applied a light misting of Light Tint Lacquer, along with some heavier spots to make the fading uneven:

[Bridgehouse]

It's had the clear gloss coats and is now drying off, and once it's a bit harder it will get the next round of treatment.

[Andyjr1515]

Can't see the pics from here....which is frustrating because I can't wait to see the progress!!!!

[Rumple]

Great work, really looking good so far.

[Bass_Guardian]

Looking great!

[Andyjr1515]

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1502437006' post='3351361']
Can't see the pics from here....which is frustrating because I can't wait to see the progress!!!!
[/quote]
I see them! And they look GREAT

[Bridgehouse]

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1502452639' post='3351549']

I see them! And they look GREAT
[/quote]

Enjoy whilst you can - its relic next

[Bridgehouse]

Had a chance to start the relic process. Some of my own preferred techniques are easier when the lacquer is still a bit soft. Others (like checking) require it to be significantly harder.

So for now, it's had the start of the process done to it. At the moment it can look a bit 'raw' and a bit 'not really aged' - but some of that comes later.

My process is generally:

- Buff where I can, but given its new lacquer, not much
- Add dents, dings, gouges, knocks, scrapes, holes and scratches with a variety of household and garage objects
- Add specific sanding wear
- Razorblade to gouge, pick, scrape and remove lacquer down to the wood
- Use progressively finer sandpaper to dull some areas and create an aged satin (and in places matt) finish with plenty of swirl marks, playing marks, rubs, and other such abuse
- Rub over a selection of shoe polishes, wood stains, and other odd darkening agents to bring out the age a bit more

Here's where we are at:







More to follow!

[Bridgehouse]

Next job is to acquire a pick guard, a bridge, and some tuners.

I'm thinking Parchment for the pick guard and then add the age to it. Other choice was mint green. Hmm. Not sure.

[Bridgehouse]

Oh, and you might notice the 'thumb rest' wear on the front seems to look like it's going to go under the pick guard - it is, and the guard will have similar wear to line up - I've seen a few basses where the thumb wear has gone right up to the pick guard and chipped it off underneath as a result. I went further to get the wear right.

[Andyjr1515]

Very clever stuff. It is rare that folks explain the relicing process as comprehensively as this. It's fascinating!

[JohnDaBass]

What paints did you use?

[Bridgehouse]

[quote name='JohnDaBass' timestamp='1502783594' post='3353426']
What paints did you use?
[/quote]

Nitro lacquer from The Manchester Guitar Tech - you'll find Steve online - he does the full range of fender colours and they are absolutely tip top paints if you are looking for rattle cans.

Great bloke to deal with, and the paint is top drawer ..

[Bridgehouse]

Pickguard has arrived. Have done some basic relic'ing with a coffee soak and some general wear and tear.

I've gone with white - but it's aged quite a bit now. Still need to add more nicks and dings to it and extend the thumb wear.

Pics to follow

[Shambo]

[quote name='Bridgehouse' timestamp='1502578292' post='3352340']
Here's where we are at:




More to follow!
[/quote]
[b]RUINED[/b]!







lol, only joking. Each to their own. As said, it's really interesting to see your relicing technique.

[Bridgehouse]

[quote name='Shambo' timestamp='1503159030' post='3356135']

[b]RUINED[/b]!







lol, only joking. Each to their own. As said, it's really interesting to see your relicing technique.
[/quote]


Haha! Of course relic'ing is definitely marmite - but tbh the process is a load of fun and I'm doing it more for the build pleasure. The other one I'm doing will be non-relic

[Bridgehouse]

Pick guard trial fit done.

Also added some strap buttons since the pics were done.

Next stage is bridge and tuners and then we are on to electrics....

[gary mac]

It's looking very authentic. Impressive work so far.

[Bigwan]

Any more updates? Been keen to see the finished product!

[Bridgehouse]

Well, I've not posted in this one for a bit.. main reason being the nitro on the first one has been curing.. a lot (!) I want to lacquer check it before finishing, and you need to leave it for a good while to harden off, and it has been doing exactly this

However, there is a second PJ to build.. and I've started this one. It's a far more rapid build...

The second one is going to be my main gigging bass - the 64P and 74P are really home and recording warriors, and at the moment the majority of my gigging has been with the MiM Classic 50's Lacquer Precision, and my 52P build. However, I prefer rosewood, I prefer a 1.75" nut width, and I want something with a bit more variation for live playing - hence the pair of PJs. Once done, I will probably let the MiM Classic 50's Lacquer go to fill a semi-acoustic bass hole.

On to the second one. Here's the starting point:

- Simple build, quick, and easy.
- Satin neck
- Satin body finish (natural)
- White Guard
- Blend/Vol/Tone
- Jack on the front (I'm wireless and prefer it there as I can see it!)
- Standard Hardware, but a vintage style bridge with the threaded saddles as it lets me play with string spacing, important on the 1.75" nut width)

Finish choice was True-Oil.

Here's the first coat on the body:

[Bridgehouse]

For the neck, I'm also using Tru-Oil - I decided about 3 coats or so would be enough for suitable coating but retaining a subtle satin sheen.

Here's 3 coats on and hardened, followed by the Gotoh machine heads:



And from the front:

[Bridgehouse]

After 3 Tru-Oil coats, I trialled the pick guard (parchment) and the knob placement - decided to use Jazz knobs to make it a bit different.

Now, for placement of the extra knob, I decided to bring it in towards the bridge a bit - and use that slot for blend (as I'll use that one the most) which should keep it out the way, but accessible.

Here's the trial fit:

[Bridgehouse]

Half a dozen relatively thin Tru-Oil coats in, and it's getting a nice sheen and depth to it: