Bridgehouse Posted October 29, 2017 Author Share Posted October 29, 2017 Put on a final Tru-Oil coat - so I reckon 8 in total, which was satin sheen enough, deep enough, but not too glossy. Neck was bolted on, and strap buttons fitted: Next stage will be Bridge, then wiring up once the bits arrive in the week (!) and then on to final fit out and adjust. Total build time will be 2 weeks I reckon (mostly due to Tru-Oil drying) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridgehouse Posted October 29, 2017 Author Share Posted October 29, 2017 Don't worry - the Daphne Blue relic PJ will return - I reckon it will be ready for lacquer checking soon.. probably when I've finished this second PJ..! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shambo Posted October 30, 2017 Share Posted October 30, 2017 Liking the wood grain on that body. I'm a sucker for a simple natural finish. Where do you source your bodies and necks from btw? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gary mac Posted October 30, 2017 Share Posted October 30, 2017 Looking great. Ive been planning a tru oil finished pj build. I've got the pickups but still need to source everything else . Where did you get the body? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheGreek Posted October 30, 2017 Share Posted October 30, 2017 I love a natural finish - I can't get why after nature has spent years creating a beautiful grain somebody comes along and covers it with paint.. Each to their own I suppose.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridgehouse Posted October 31, 2017 Author Share Posted October 31, 2017 Body and neck source is a tricky one - it's a contact I have from another forum, and he only sells to members over there. I have to say, sourcing good bodies and necks in the UK can be really tricky - especially if you want out of the ordinary.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roman_sub Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 relic'ed PJ looking quite subtle and realistic so far - great job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JapanAxe Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 Subscribed (albeit late to the party). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grangur Posted October 31, 2017 Share Posted October 31, 2017 [quote name='Bridgehouse' timestamp='1509315511' post='3398074'] Put on a final Tru-Oil coat - so I reckon 8 in total, which was satin sheen enough, deep enough, but not too glossy. Neck was bolted on, and strap buttons fitted: Next stage will be Bridge, then wiring up once the bits arrive in the week (!) and then on to final fit out and adjust. Total build time will be 2 weeks I reckon (mostly due to Tru-Oil drying) [/quote] [quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1509364049' post='3398284'] I love a natural finish - I can't get why after nature has spent years creating a beautiful grain somebody comes along and covers it with paint.. Each to their own I suppose.. [/quote] That natural finish looks great. Have to agree with Mick here. Really nice looking bass you have there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridgehouse Posted November 1, 2017 Author Share Posted November 1, 2017 Bridge delivered today - so decided to fit it. Popped the strings on to check alignment too. It seems to be okay: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridgehouse Posted November 5, 2017 Author Share Posted November 5, 2017 (edited) Bit more progress made. Totally changed my mind on the controls. Went stack knob after a lot of too'ing and fro'ing. Don't really know why either, other than I just think it will be the most adaptable setup for live work. So. Pots in and Pickups in. All wired up. Plate on. It awaits some knobs (being delivered) and I need to finish the setup. Then, it's back to the relic.. Edited November 5, 2017 by Bridgehouse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted November 5, 2017 Share Posted November 5, 2017 [quote name='Bridgehouse' timestamp='1509840529' post='3402076'] Bit more progress made. Totally changed my mind on the controls. Went stack knob after a lot of too'ing and fro'ing. Don't really know why either, other than I just think it will be the most adaptable setup for live work... [/quote] I've heard it said in this forum that stacked controls are more susceptible to hum than separate ones. I have no experience to confirm or deny this however. Is the cavity shielded? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridgehouse Posted November 5, 2017 Author Share Posted November 5, 2017 [quote name='SpondonBassed' timestamp='1509862911' post='3402105'] I've heard it said in this forum that stacked controls are more susceptible to hum than separate ones. I have no experience to confirm or deny this however. Is the cavity shielded? [/quote] Not at the moment, but it would be an easy fix to do so. Once I've wielded it in anger a bit I will see how the hum situation is. Mind you, the Dimarzio DP 126 set has a rather handy split coil J pickup.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted November 5, 2017 Share Posted November 5, 2017 [quote name='Bridgehouse' timestamp='1509871838' post='3402151'] Not at the moment, but it would be an easy fix to do so. Once I've wielded it in anger a bit I will see how the hum situation is. Mind you, the Dimarzio DP 126 set has a rather handy split coil J pickup.. [/quote] How does a split coil J work then? I always thought they were single coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridgehouse Posted November 5, 2017 Author Share Posted November 5, 2017 [quote name='SpondonBassed' timestamp='1509886118' post='3402291'] How does a split coil J work then? I always thought they were single coil. [/quote] These are just like a P - two separate coils, next to each other with a connecting wire. Same shape as a J, same magnet type etc. But essentially they are a J version of a normal humbucking P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridgehouse Posted November 7, 2017 Author Share Posted November 7, 2017 The more astute amongst you may have noticed that the bridge screws were wrong - they were in fact screw fix specials! See, the problem was, it's a 5 hole bridge, and Fender only supplied me with 4. Quick mail to someone I know there and a pack of the right type were winging their way to me.. arrived today, fitted, and now it looks right. Just need the knobs and it's done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridgehouse Posted November 7, 2017 Author Share Posted November 7, 2017 Oh, and the Daphne blue body went into the freezer today - let's see if we can start off some lacquer checking...! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sibob Posted November 8, 2017 Share Posted November 8, 2017 [quote name='Bridgehouse' timestamp='1510092786' post='3404008'] Oh, and the Daphne blue body went into the freezer today - let's see if we can start off some lacquer checking...! [/quote] Hopefully that fingerboard will darken a bit with some treatment. Looks like a lovely build, but in my humble opinion, it's the fingerboard letting it down just a tiny bit by being so pale/dry? Great work on your behalf though, very cool Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridgehouse Posted November 8, 2017 Author Share Posted November 8, 2017 [quote name='Sibob' timestamp='1510134982' post='3404146'] Hopefully that fingerboard will darken a bit with some treatment. Looks like a lovely build, but in my humble opinion, it's the fingerboard letting it down just a tiny bit by being so pale/dry? Great work on your behalf though, very cool Si [/quote] Not done any ageing to the fingerboard yet - or oiled it, or set it up... Once it's further on and stopped being slapped in and out of the freezer it will get some treatment to darken it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridgehouse Posted November 8, 2017 Author Share Posted November 8, 2017 Well. Took the body out of the freezer and liberally applied a good dose of hot air from the hair dryer. Nary even a tiny crack, check or anything. Gah. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grangur Posted November 8, 2017 Share Posted November 8, 2017 I seem to remember reading the composition of modern finishes are different to those used in the 70s. Which is why checking doesn't happen in the nitro finish of modern instruments. But this may be wrong. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigwan Posted November 8, 2017 Share Posted November 8, 2017 [quote name='Bridgehouse' timestamp='1510168759' post='3404469'] Well. Took the body out of the freezer and liberally applied a good dose of hot air from the hair dryer. Nary even a tiny crack, check or anything. Gah. [/quote] Does it take multiple temperature shocks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bridgehouse Posted November 8, 2017 Author Share Posted November 8, 2017 The nitro I use is sourced from someone who I know uses formulas that do crack and check - so it's not a "modern" formula as such. Not tried multiple temp shocks tho. That'll be next on the list Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpondonBassed Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 [quote name='Bridgehouse' timestamp='1510171817' post='3404502'] The nitro I use is sourced from someone who I know uses formulas that do crack and check - so it's not a "modern" formula as such. Not tried multiple temp shocks tho. That'll be next on the list [/quote] Repeated cycles are the way to go. I wouldn't say you need to be extreme with it at the hot end of the cycle as the freezer gives you good temperature differential without risk of heat damage. The hair drier is perhaps not the best tool especially as it is makes a hot spot where it strikes. What may help is if you make a warm box to contain the body with insulation and an incandescent light bulb in it for the heat source. Give it lots of time, say 24 hours at each exposure to ensure full expansion of the body and the coating. Take sensible precautions as there will be a fire risk if you get it wrong. Similarly, make sure that the core of the body gets chilled fully when you freeze it. Avoid sudden transference from one extreme to the other else you will risk splitting the wood. Looking forward to the photos somewhere down the line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
allighatt0r Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 Could you hang it up in the boiler cupboard/airing cupboard? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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