Maple veneer for fret markers

[SisterAbdullahX]

I'll shall soon be collecting a cheapish 4 string with the intention of converting it to fretless. I will fill the slots with maple, sand it and coat the fingerboard with cyanoacrylate (super glue to you and me). I would have thought that finding some cheap 1mm thick maple sheets would have been a doddle on the internet but no! It's a bleeding nightmare! I can find thinner but not 1mm. Does anyone know where I can find some?
Thanks in advance.

Edited October 5, 2017 by SisterAbdullahX

[FinnDave]

I did this a few years ago and used a light-coloured wood from a model shop. I can't remember what type of wood it was, but it worked well and was easy to see against the dark fingerboard. I think it was intended for model ship makers.

[bertbass]

Probably balsa wood then.

[FinnDave]

[quote name='bertbass' timestamp='1507225218' post='3384082']
Probably balsa wood then.
[/quote]

No, it was a much harder wood than balsa! Model ship builders use all sorts of exotic hardwoods and it is available in small strips, perfect for the OP's project. Unless he gets sidetracked into a long term build of the Cutty Sark!

[SisterAbdullahX]

[quote name='FinnDave' timestamp='1507226678' post='3384100']


No, it was a much harder wood than balsa! Model ship builders use all sorts of exotic hardwoods and it is available in small strips, perfect for the OP's project. Unless he gets sidetracked into a long term build of the Cutty Sark!
[/quote]

Cheers Dave, I shall check out my nearest modelling shop! I've seen basswood listed in model shops online so it might have been that.

[FinnDave]

I think you might be right, and using bass wood for a bass would have appealed to my warped sense of humour!

[Manton Customs]

You'll likely get better results with plasticard/styrene sheet. It won't contract at a different rate to the fingerboard like Maple will, or stain from the surrounding oily wood like Maple can. It'll hold up better and is easier to work also.

The contraction/swelling thing is less of an issue as you'll be coating the board, but thought it was worth mentioning anyway!

[SisterAbdullahX]

Cheers MC! I'll check that out!

[police squad]

I'm sure I remembered something about jaco pulling the frets and using a tube of plastic wood to fill the gaps. (not sure and haven't googled it. I'm just going by memory)
This was in 1990. I had bought a USA '62 reissue P bass and decided to do the same. Pulled the frets and filed with tube of stuff. Worked a treat

[Bolo]

Ebay search for "1mm veneer" didn't dissapoint.

[SisterAbdullahX]

[quote name='Bolo' timestamp='1507324426' post='3384848']
Ebay search for "1mm veneer" didn't dissapoint.
[/quote]

It did last week!

[Gottastopbuyinggear]

Not sure about 1mm. I bought one of these recently - 2.5mm so possibly a bit thick, but it was a nice piece: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GUITAR-HEADSTOCK-VENEER-EUROPEAN-MAPLE/182756857967

Rothko and Frost also sell 2mm headstock veneer.

[dlloyd]

[quote name='police squad' timestamp='1507297948' post='3384613']
I'm sure I remembered something about jaco pulling the frets and using a tube of plastic wood to fill the gaps. (not sure and haven't googled it. I'm just going by memory)
This was in 1990. I had bought a USA '62 reissue P bass and decided to do the same. Pulled the frets and filed with tube of stuff. Worked a treat
[/quote]

This is what I did... It's all covered in cyanoacrylate anyway so you can't really tell what it is.

[yorks5stringer]

Couldn't you use thinned down matches? The red ends would make great position markers and if lit during the gig, would aid finger positioning too.....

Being more serious, I used Veneers Online who don't appear to have an eBay listing now but do still have a website. I think a piece of veneer cost me £2.10 or something daft.

[SisterAbdullahX]

[quote name='Meddle' timestamp='1507577200' post='3386508']


A proper hardwood veneer or plastic card would be better than wood filler, as wood filler can simply compress under string tension. Wood filler also tends to make for a messier look, especially when it is a contrasting colour and is smooshed into the areas of wood chipped out when the fret tangs are pulled up through the surface.

In short, this look:


[/quote]

Yes, that's not the look I'm going for!

[SisterAbdullahX]

[quote name='yorks5stringer' timestamp='1507580341' post='3386562']
Couldn't you use thinned down matches? The red ends would make great position markers and if lit during the gig, would aid finger positioning too.....

Being more serious, I used Veneers Online who don't appear to have an eBay listing now but do still have a website. I think a piece of veneer cost me £2.10 or something daft.
[/quote]

Why didn't I think of that!😂

Great, I'll have a look at Veneers Online. Thanks for that!

[Beer of the Bass]

Are you sure you want 1mm veneer? For the bass I defretted a few years ago 0.6mm veneer was a good fit in the slots.

[SisterAbdullahX]

[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1507674218' post='3387237']
Are you sure you want 1mm veneer? For the bass I defretted a few years ago 0.6mm veneer was a good fit in the slots.
[/quote]

You could be right there, I think a bit under 1mm will be needed, I would like them to fit snuggly and expect I'll have to sand them down to the correct thickness.

[yorks5stringer]

If I remember when i did my fretless I had to thin it down a little too.

[yorks5stringer]

[quote name='Meddle' timestamp='1507829631' post='3388275']
Last defret I did, I took some removed frets to the place I bought the veneer. This way I could compare the tang directly with the replacement material.
[/quote]

Good idea or you could just measure the tang if ordering online.

[Ralf1e]

On 05/10/2017 at 22:40, Manton Customs said:

You'll likely get better results with plasticard/styrene sheet. It won't contract at a different rate to the fingerboard like Maple will, or stain from the surrounding oily wood like Maple can. It'll hold up better and is easier to work also.

The contraction/swelling thing is less of an issue as you'll be coating the board, but thought it was worth mentioning anyway!

Thank you so much for this. I to am in the process of de-freting in my Bitza project and followed your advice as regards the plasticard.

Not yet finished but I am pleased with what I see so far

Used .5mm plasticard as the previous fret tangs were about that.

Edited May 4, 2023 by Ralf1e
Add photos

[Manton Customs]

7 hours ago, Ralf1e said:

Thank you so much for this. I to am in the process of de-freting in my Bitza project and followed your advice as regards the plasticard.

Not yet finished but I am pleased with what I see so far

Used .5mm plasticard as the previous fret tangs were about that.

Glad it’s going well…good luck with the rest of the project 😃 

[JoeEvans]

Robbins Timber in Bristol are the specialists for veneers, they should be able provide 1mm but you could always glue in a strip of 2mm and plane or sand it down flush.

EDIT just looked back and saw that this was five years ago! Ah well Robbins are still good....

Edited May 4, 2023 by JoeEvans

[fleabag]

Or as an alternative, and to be a tad different, you could do what Robin at Manton Customs did to fretless my Peavey neck

 

 

There's no nasty superglue either.  Smooth as a grass snake on syrup.

 

[Ralf1e]

That is lovely. I wished I'd seen that earlier. I've just done mine board with plasticard in the last 24 hrs

I take it that is laminated pick guard or similar ?

Also a fabulous way to recycle damaged p guards.