Jump to content
Why become a member? ×

Maple veneer for fret markers


SisterAbdullahX
 Share

Recommended Posts

I'll shall soon be collecting a cheapish 4 string with the intention of converting it to fretless. I will fill the slots with maple, sand it and coat the fingerboard with cyanoacrylate (super glue to you and me). I would have thought that finding some cheap 1mm thick maple sheets would have been a doddle on the internet but no! It's a bleeding nightmare! I can find thinner but not 1mm. Does anyone know where I can find some?
Thanks in advance.

Edited by SisterAbdullahX
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did this a few years ago and used a light-coloured wood from a model shop. I can't remember what type of wood it was, but it worked well and was easy to see against the dark fingerboard. I think it was intended for model ship makers.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

[quote name='bertbass' timestamp='1507225218' post='3384082']
Probably balsa wood then.
[/quote]

No, it was a much harder wood than balsa! Model ship builders use all sorts of exotic hardwoods and it is available in small strips, perfect for the OP's project. Unless he gets sidetracked into a long term build of the Cutty Sark!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

[quote name='FinnDave' timestamp='1507226678' post='3384100']


No, it was a much harder wood than balsa! Model ship builders use all sorts of exotic hardwoods and it is available in small strips, perfect for the OP's project. Unless he gets sidetracked into a long term build of the Cutty Sark!
[/quote]

Cheers Dave, I shall check out my nearest modelling shop! I've seen basswood listed in model shops online so it might have been that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You'll likely get better results with plasticard/styrene sheet. It won't contract at a different rate to the fingerboard like Maple will, or stain from the surrounding oily wood like Maple can. It'll hold up better and is easier to work also.

The contraction/swelling thing is less of an issue as you'll be coating the board, but thought it was worth mentioning anyway!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm sure I remembered something about jaco pulling the frets and using a tube of plastic wood to fill the gaps. (not sure and haven't googled it. I'm just going by memory)
This was in 1990. I had bought a USA '62 reissue P bass and decided to do the same. Pulled the frets and filed with tube of stuff. Worked a treat

Link to comment
Share on other sites

[quote name='police squad' timestamp='1507297948' post='3384613']
I'm sure I remembered something about jaco pulling the frets and using a tube of plastic wood to fill the gaps. (not sure and haven't googled it. I'm just going by memory)
This was in 1990. I had bought a USA '62 reissue P bass and decided to do the same. Pulled the frets and filed with tube of stuff. Worked a treat
[/quote]

This is what I did... It's all covered in cyanoacrylate anyway so you can't really tell what it is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Couldn't you use thinned down matches? The red ends would make great position markers and if lit during the gig, would aid finger positioning too.....

Being more serious, I used Veneers Online who don't appear to have an eBay listing now but do still have a website. I think a piece of veneer cost me £2.10 or something daft.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

[quote name='Meddle' timestamp='1507577200' post='3386508']


A proper hardwood veneer or plastic card would be better than wood filler, as wood filler can simply compress under string tension. Wood filler also tends to make for a messier look, especially when it is a contrasting colour and is smooshed into the areas of wood chipped out when the fret tangs are pulled up through the surface.

In short, this look:


[/quote]

Yes, that's not the look I'm going for!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

[quote name='yorks5stringer' timestamp='1507580341' post='3386562']
Couldn't you use thinned down matches? The red ends would make great position markers and if lit during the gig, would aid finger positioning too.....

Being more serious, I used Veneers Online who don't appear to have an eBay listing now but do still have a website. I think a piece of veneer cost me £2.10 or something daft.
[/quote]

Why didn't I think of that!😂

Great, I'll have a look at Veneers Online. Thanks for that!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1507674218' post='3387237']
Are you sure you want 1mm veneer? For the bass I defretted a few years ago 0.6mm veneer was a good fit in the slots.
[/quote]

You could be right there, I think a bit under 1mm will be needed, I would like them to fit snuggly and expect I'll have to sand them down to the correct thickness.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 years later...

16832031769307536393904493641699.thumb.jpg.8b3c1362f8237e56dc62c8653255f8fe.jpg1683203267512150475074010888557.thumb.jpg.9bb0d175b4a4a842f31984db590bb1ab.jpg1683203267512150475074010888557.thumb.jpg.9bb0d175b4a4a842f31984db590bb1ab.jpg16832033292993575746705125419799.thumb.jpg.459a5961b6abc0fb7d75d4b791ef7851.jpg

On 05/10/2017 at 22:40, Manton Customs said:

You'll likely get better results with plasticard/styrene sheet. It won't contract at a different rate to the fingerboard like Maple will, or stain from the surrounding oily wood like Maple can. It'll hold up better and is easier to work also.

The contraction/swelling thing is less of an issue as you'll be coating the board, but thought it was worth mentioning anyway!

Thank you so much for this. I to am in the process of de-freting in my Bitza project and followed your advice as regards the plasticard.

Not yet finished but I am pleased with what I see so far

Used .5mm plasticard as the previous fret tangs were about that.

Edited by Ralf1e
Add photos
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Ralf1e said:

16832031769307536393904493641699.thumb.jpg.8b3c1362f8237e56dc62c8653255f8fe.jpg1683203267512150475074010888557.thumb.jpg.9bb0d175b4a4a842f31984db590bb1ab.jpg1683203267512150475074010888557.thumb.jpg.9bb0d175b4a4a842f31984db590bb1ab.jpg16832033292993575746705125419799.thumb.jpg.459a5961b6abc0fb7d75d4b791ef7851.jpg

Thank you so much for this. I to am in the process of de-freting in my Bitza project and followed your advice as regards the plasticard.

Not yet finished but I am pleased with what I see so far

Used .5mm plasticard as the previous fret tangs were about that.

Glad it’s going well…good luck with the rest of the project 😃 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Robbins Timber in Bristol are the specialists for veneers, they should be able provide 1mm but you could always glue in a strip of 2mm and plane or sand it down flush.

EDIT just looked back and saw that this was five years ago! Ah well Robbins are still good....

Edited by JoeEvans
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Or as an alternative, and to be a tad different, you could do what Robin at Manton Customs did to fretless my Peavey neck

 

 

There's no nasty superglue either.  Smooth as a grass snake on syrup.

 

FretlessBitsa3.thumb.jpg.609060a90c0fdfbc9fc6221693b0d73d.jpg

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is lovely. I wished I'd seen that earlier. I've just done mine board with plasticard in the last 24 hrs

I take it that is laminated pick guard or similar ?

Also a fabulous way to recycle damaged p guards.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...