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fretless zero nut ?


steve-bbb
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anybody done one or converted? any reasons not to?

my fretless vmJ has a 'loose' nut which just sits in the slot and slides out

is this intentional to allow unencumbered fretboard dressing with a radiussed sanding block?

could it be the cause of my flubby sounding open E (given that there is not much pressure from the break angle over the E) ?

secondly .....

there is enough fretboard behind spare behind the nut to move it back 5mm or so and install a zero fret ? what are you thoughts fellow basschatters?

:rolleyes:

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[quote name='KiOgon' timestamp='1509440356' post='3398836']
A zero fret on a fretless would need to be practically zero height to get a decent setup. Not only pointless but technically it wouldn't still be fretless would it :P
[/quote]

i would havde thought it would be equivalent to the cut depth of the slots in the current nut no?? (which is not down flush with the board)

must admit ti didnt sound flubby before the latest new string change so im guessing the most likely culprit is the string tension from the break angle not holding down the loose floating nut

it wasnt originally loose it was very lightly glued down - the current nut is a new one which i had to get after i modified the original one to accomodate the larger guage of black nylons to try them - and then decided i didnt like them on this particular bass so had to get a new nut to go back to regular guage :gas:

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I suppose that depends on how you like the action personally, but I find fretless so lovely to play when the strings are practically touching the fingerboard at the nut and require minimum finger pressure.

Anyway it sounds like the new nut is the problem, have you fitted it 'straight from the packet' or has it been cut to suit, with a angle cut away from the fretboard to help the break? As said a couple of spots of glue would help, first making sure the new nut sits firm, flat, (or contoured to fit), and square into the cutout.

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It sounds a s though you have two separate and only slightly inter-related problems here.

The nut should be glued in place to stop it from moving. The string tension should be sufficient to hold it in place most of the time, but anything that could potentially suck away some of the string vibration energy like the nut being loose and moving should be avoided.

Secondly you need to wind the string right down to the bottom of the tuner post on the E and A strings to get the best possible break angle over the nut. This is why I don't like instruments with non-angled headstocks.

Finally IMO the main reason for having a zero fret is to give a more even tone between the fretted and open strings. On a fretless bass ideally you would want the nut material to match that of the fingerboard. And as has been said the nut slots should be just above the surface of the fingerboard for the best action on a fretless.

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[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1509444612' post='3398883']
It sounds a s though you have two separate and only slightly inter-related problems here.

The nut should be glued in place to stop it from moving. The string tension should be sufficient to hold it in place most of the time, but anything that could potentially suck away some of the string vibration energy like the nut being loose and moving should be avoided.

Secondly you need to wind the string right down to the bottom of the tuner post on the E and A strings to get the best possible break angle over the nut. This is why I don't like instruments with non-angled headstocks.

Finally IMO the main reason for having a zero fret is to give a more even tone between the fretted and open strings. On a fretless bass ideally you would want the nut material to match that of the fingerboard. And as has been said the nut slots should be just above the surface of the fingerboard for the best action on a fretless.
[/quote]

off to get some decent glue :)

i treated myself to a large radiused sanding block recently so will give it a light cosmetic clean up while at it too

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[quote name='steve-bbb' timestamp='1509445063' post='3398889']
off to get some decent glue :)

i treated myself to a large radiused sanding block recently so will give it a light cosmetic clean up while at it too
[/quote]

IIRC the fingerboard on the VMJ is ebanol rather than wood. Pick your sanding material carefully.

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