Thunderbird is go

[T-Bay]

So far I have sourced a neck, headless mechanism and a pair of Gibson pick ups. None have arrived yet but the postie will be busy over the next few days. I have also found a decent place localish to get a good bit of timber from but it will be a couple of weeks before I get a chance to visit due to work clashing with their opening hours. So I need to start researching threads on here to find the best way to join the two pieces together.

[Norris]

11 hours ago, T-Bay said:

So I need to start researching threads on here to find the best way to join the two pieces together.

Plane the edges flat so you can't see any light through the gap when held up to the light. Then use Titebond and as many (sash) clamps as you can beg, steal or borrow

[Jimothey]

12 hours ago, T-Bay said:

So I need to start researching threads on here to find the best way to join the two pieces together.

If you don’t feel confident with a hand or electric plane then you could always use a router with a straight flute cutter in it?

Measure the distance from the outside edge of the router bed to the inside edge of the cutting blade 

Clamp a straight edge on your timber a couple of mm moure than the distance you’ve just measured making sure it’s parallel

Carefully rout the timber making sure you keep the router bed flat on the face of the timber (because you are only taking off a couple of mm you should be able to do it in one pass but if the router starts labouring then do the passes in stages lowering down the router after each pass) 

Then you will have a 90 degree edge do the other piece of timber and hey presto 2 perfectly square edges to glue together and as Norris said use as many sash clamps as you can making sure you clamp from the top and bottom of the timber so to limit the amount of deflection

Or the other option is go out and buy a jointer planer and that would make your life a lot easier

Edited November 22, 2017 by Jimothey

[T-Bay]

Thanks guys, I was thinking more on whether to use biscuits or dowels. From what I have read either would be sufficient. A load of bits have arrived today so I can start fiddling about as soon as I get a second.

[T-Bay]

Ah poo, just unwrapped the neck and it’s amazing for an eBay special -how can they make them for that money? It needs one fret filing at one end but is otherwise very nice indeed. The problem is that it seems criminal to start chopping it about.

 

sooooooooo do I stick with the headless idea or change and go for a Fender bird?

[SpondonBassed]

On 11/21/2017 at 20:23, T-Bay said:

... So I need to start researching threads on here to find the best way to join the two pieces together.

@honza992 was concerned about glue witnesses in his butt joints (Pipe down you lot at the back!).

I described a process for mating matching parts that is more often used in metalwork.  In short; when you've cut your timber, rub the mating surfaces together.  Use short strokes with a firm pressure to keep the mating surfaces square to each other.  Then take down the high spots (where you see a shine from rubbing) with a scraper until you've got even contact across the joint.

If you have a plane and a shooting board however, I'd recommend that above all else.

[SpondonBassed]

14 hours ago, T-Bay said:

Thanks guys, I was thinking more on whether to use biscuits or dowels. From what I have read either would be sufficient. A load of bits have arrived today so I can start fiddling about as soon as I get a second.

 

Biscuits always.  Mine's a hobnob ta.  Milk and no sugar in my tea thanks.

I've never seen a Luthier use biscuits except for repairs.

 

14 hours ago, T-Bay said:

Ah poo, just unwrapped the neck and it’s amazing for an eBay special -how can they make them for that money? It needs one fret filing at one end but is otherwise very nice indeed. The problem is that it seems criminal to start chopping it about.

 

sooooooooo do I stick with the headless idea or change and go for a Fender bird?

 

Stick to your plan young man.

Fender T'Bird?  WTF's that?  Heavy and inclined to decapitate your band mates every time you turn to see who's wolf-whistling at yer that's what.

You can always do one as the next build.

[T-Bay]

I was put last night so didn’t have chance to do anything but not much is going to happen anyway until I can get down the woodyard bit will put a pic up of the assorted goodies if I get a chance tonight.

[Norris]

I don't think biscuits would add anything. Titebond once cured is stronger than the wood. 

[T-Bay]

I finally managed to get to the wood yard. Sadly the range was wide in terms of type but very narrow in suitable sizes, so narrow in fact it was down to two. A European redwood, unfortunately with a severe warp that ruled it out and a piece of Sepele a poor man’s Mahogany. So much for the super light option. It was cheap so I took a punt. It will have to be cut in two and glued but I have just noticed there is a crack I didn’t spot which is a pain. It’s glueable though so wouldn’t be an issue. 

[SpondonBassed]

The Plank 1967

Edited December 1, 2017 by SpondonBassed

[T-Bay]

Cut and glued the plank today, it’s presently sat at work clamped up within an inch of its life. I have a pic on my phone I will stick up later. I also set up the bandsaw so I will be in work early next Monday and start getting it cut to shape.

[T-Bay]

[TheGreek]

Glad that you ascribe to what Andy says..."you can never have too many clamps"...

[T-Bay]

Yup, I would have liked one big one to get some pressure in the middle but I think it will be ok as it is 

[T-Bay]

Apologies for the lack of progress, a bug laid me out for three days and then I forgot to take pics of what I have done. The blank glued up very nicely and I have done the basic cut. It wasn’t as simple as it could have been as most of my serious tools are aimed squarely at cutting metal. The bandsaw worked well, if slowly but couldn’t handle the tight corners and I had to a lot of cuts to get into some of the areas without it fouling.

 

It is presently 8mm thicker than my desired thickness. I don’t have a planer/ thicknesser but do have a decent milling machine. I have a nice multi cutter head that can do 80mm wide cuts. I did a test run on some offcuts and it gives a nice finish but that is some risk of breakout at the edges, but I will take that risk.

 

I have also done a first cut on a jig for the neck pocket. I have a question for the experienced folk on here- what sort of fit should I look for? At present it is a gentle push fit, I.e it won’t slide in loosely but slots in nicely with a gentle push. I think this is what I should have but would be grateful for any advice on that aspect. The bridge still hasn’t arrived so until I get that I can’t cut the neck pocket anyway as I want to check heights first.

[Jimothey]

The neck joint should be as you have said should fit with a gentle push and you should be able to lift the body by the neck only without any slipping at the joint

Well that’s the rule I work to anyway?

Edited December 8, 2017 by Jimothey

[T-Bay]

26 minutes ago, Jimothey said:

The neck joint should be as you have said should fit with a gentle push and you should be able to lift the body by the neck only without any slipping at the joint

Well that’s the rule I work to anyway?

Thanks!

[T-Bay]

Due to Christmas and the usual January frenzy at work I haven’t had much chance to do anything on this. But I have managed to shape the body and do the rear shaping (minimal). I have a couple of rubbish pics on my phone which I will attempt to upload.

[T-Bay]

[T-Bay]

Success! Serious Woodworkers should close their ears now. I shaped the rear section by using a cordless drill with a cross mill in it. It worked surprisingly well. I then used a rasp followed by a metal file. It’s ready for the routing to be done but not sure when I will get chance to do that. I also now have everything I need except the tuners and wiring. I may make up the loom myself or go for a cheap ebay one at first then upgrade. 

[Jimothey]

8 minutes ago, T-Bay said:

Success! Serious Woodworkers should close their ears now. I shaped the rear section by using a cordless drill with a cross mill in it. It worked surprisingly well. I then used a rasp followed by a metal file. It’s ready for the routing to be done but not sure when I will get chance to do that. I also now have everything I need except the tuners and wiring. I may make up the loom myself or go for a cheap ebay one at first then upgrade. 

If that method works for you then that’s great it looks nice and smooth tho ( I use a belt sander in a carriage to keep it square) 

Can’t wait to see this progress as I’m considering a Tbird build (but with a slight difference to the body shape so technically it won’t be a Tbird)

[T-Bay]

I don’t have a belt sander anymore, I got rid of all my heavy vibration tools due to arthritis. Shame as it would be very useful on this one.

[Jimothey]

2 minutes ago, T-Bay said:

I don’t have a belt sander anymore, I got rid of all my heavy vibration tools due to arthritis. Shame as it would be very useful on this one.

That’s the reason why I put mine in a carriage as the vibrations from it was hurting my hands if I used it for more than 5 mins and it was a lot cheaper than buying a new bobbin sander as the motor burnt out on mine 

[BassTool]

On 11/22/2017 at 16:17, T-Bay said:

sooooooooo do I stick with the headless idea or change and go for a Fender bird?

Headless 

 

If only to see the perplexed look on the average punters face when you step onstage with it